fecupe2001

as much as i love the idea of testing them, i don't think i would spend 100$ on that just for a test, BUT, you actually have a point, let me see if there's someone that can borrow me one of those batteries and actually gonna test it against a D3100 i have laying in my closet

my pleasure bro, glad you like that topic and find it useful damn that sucks, maybe you could find someone that works on construction? that guy can surely get you an 8" pvc pipe with the lenght you require, that's what i always do around here, there's a 4 15" box i'm building SOON that is gonna have a 12" pvc port lol

the ones i can get are powersafe batteries, made by enersys, tell me a little bit more about your batts, how mane of them? what's your voltage drop?

yeah i can find them CHEAP as hell, they even give me a discount if i buy a few lol, 3 XS power D3100 would cost me around 1200$ , with that amount of money i can buy around 12 UPS batteries, that's why i'm asking if they are good for car audio or if i should stay with xs power. P.S: they label says they are AGM by the way. this is the model they send me for that amount of money http://www.enersysreservepower.com/safe_vft.asp

wich model?? i can find the enersys 155 around here CHEAP as hell, they are 150AH , i've never used them before and lots of people say they do pretty good, an xs power D3100 cost around 400$ over here, i can find those UPS batteries for like 100$ a piece

i had a nice result with only a couple of hours testing a hyundai accent trunk car, i was using a single 10" pioneer champion 258 sub with is 350 watts and cost about 40 bucks, powered by a cadence 1800 watts amplifier wired at 2 ohms wich is like 800 watts before impedance rise and voltage drops, box was 1.1 cubic feet and i was using a 6" pvc port with some crappy flares i did with a heat gun, car was doing 143.1 @ 56 hz Box was sub back and external port side, it scored better with the port facing to the driver's corner and the sub facing like the passenger's side panel

impressive for sure, very nice!

not bad man, very nice for such a cheap system using a sealed box, keep it up!!

very nice man, i've always been a big fan of your car, great vids

Yes derrick824 was the guy making them, don't know if he still does tho, he's a member around here also, maybe you could use a heat gun and a metallic bowl??? that's the way i always "build" them and works great for such fast and easy process, here's a video i recorded long time ago building the flares for my swift, they ended up looking very nice IMO, i couldn't build them bigger since they wouldn't fit, but you get the idea....

yes they can, mny swift did a 148.1 with 3 10s and a cadence c6 wired at 1.33 ohms, that car was loud as hell back then http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2X1JGFQLNS4&feature=g-upl

i've used amps mounted on the box before without any problems, but i agree with the guys, it needs to be very strong in order to do this witout putting the amp on jeopardy, mannnn my english is getting better and better lol

PWK haha Anyways, 8.2 cubic feet and 4 6" aeroports, subs up port back, that box did a 150.9 @ 42 hz inside a nissan patrol using a DD m4 @ 1 ohm and 150.3 @ 43 hz inside a hyundai tucson using a cadence C6 @ 1 ohm, trust me, the termlab didn´t do any justice on how loud those 2 cars are using the same design...

for spl?place the port facing to driver´s side or maybe back, and higher tuning for sure, around 40 hz would work better...

great guy around here, good luck with the sale bro!!!

like i said, i don´t own the AC, i own a TL only that was at home at that moment, both sensors were him, i don´t know how to adjust that shitty AC and don´t care how to, the guy never did a comparisson against each sensor since he only uses the AC for SQ, so i asked him to do that and he say let´s do it, why would he set the AC in a way that it could be right on with a TL? audiocontrol isn´t paying me any money for that video, it´s kind of dumb you saying that WE adjusted the audiocontrol before recording that video, i kind of feel offended, you are saying i´m all bullshit or something??? I ain´t gonna fight with anyone that thinks the video is bullshit, specially a mod, i always thought you were a cool guy, but saying in other words that i´m a lier just because i´m saying those are the results we got??? you are funny, anyways, carry on man, if you want to do that test yourself be my guest, maybe you are right and the sensor had a major hit on the shipping and now it´scoring the same number than the TL, but saying I adjusted everything before that video??? that´s bullshit, cheers man...

well, never expected someone saying i was bullshiting around here since lots of people know that i´m the real deal, but anyways, the audiocontrol was sent to their factory to upgrade everything up for the spl 190 sensor, and also, the guy you see on the video burping the car it´s me, and the owner of both sensors it´s a very respetable guy around here that holded a few latin america records , was a certified iasca judge and it´s even the american bass and cadence dealer for central america, no he did not tweak it anything but it´s cool, it´s a free forum, you can think and give any opinion you want P.S: Yes, termlab it´s WAY cheaper than the AC

i used some black "urenate"??? fuck english lol, anyways, the same product the shop uses when you change a windshield, my explorer has the back window sealed since 2010 and still working awesome

termlab is exactly 0.1 dbs lower, here´s a 5 minutes long video showing all the test i did with my old system, hope it works for you

which mic on the audiocontrol? ive been metered on both the 190 and 170 mic. SPL-190 my friend

the subject isn´t about what meter is the most accurated lol, OP that app is bullshit, there´s no way you´ll know exactly how loud your system is until you meter it on a real sensor P.S: Audiocontrol SENSOR is also only 0.1 dbs off the termlab

well, don´t get me wrong, the 309 still pounds, just not as loud as the 307 was, now, the cvr is WAY louder than the 307 if you ask me, but around here the cvr it´s over 100$ while the pioneer it´´s around 65$, what´s the price of the cvr? if the price is similar then i would definitely get the cvr!!

Well, thank god i´ve gotten good results with small amounts of money, but i would definitely say that the best "cheap" option it´s the pioneer subs, it´s just crazy how loud they can get on a proper box, each 12" sub cost around 65$ around here, i guess over there should be around 110$ for both subs, of course, i haven´t try a lot of good brands out there, maybe you can get louder with a single SA 12???? i don´t know, you would need input from other guys that has way more experience and knowledge than myself. This is the model i´m talking about, if you can´t find this one, i wouldn´t get the new 309 series http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Subwoofers/Champion+Series/TS-W307D2%7CD4

ehehehe now this one is a loud guy for sure, how´s the weather over there??? yeah those pioneer are amazing, BUT, i can tell you this, those subs are no where near as loud as the old 305 were, even the 307 is louder, the new 309 line sucks ass compared to the old one, they get hot faster, doesn´t get as loud as the old ones were on the lows, etc etc, still very nice subs, but, if you can find the 307 series you would get louder

I buil a kia rio, it´s a trunk car, 2 pioneer 309 400 watts 55$ a piece, single DD m1b wired at 1 ohm and stock battery and alternator, box is 3.2 cubic feet and 2 4" aeros tuned to around 40 hz since he loves higher frequencies, car does a 145.2 @ 52 hz and still does a 143 at 42 hz , i guess that, with a lower tuning he could be doing around 144 dbs @ 42 hz wich is amazing for cheap subs and small power in a trunk car if you ask me