audiofanaticz

LOL The name was the title is what made me click it hoping Id have a thread to lock! Lmao

I just remember resetting it a week ago. trying to see where it is. if there is still one. lol

there is a setting in your control panel to change it back to 40 posts per page........

wow a lot of people be sucking up to the mods Im not really that smart. there is lots I dont know, but there is lots I have learned from people that been in this field locally to me, however as always gotta take every piece of advice with a grain of salt

First off learn how to read. 4.50 per foot X 51 feet which is on the RF roll is $229.50 Second, if your not interested in this product, no reason to post here and troll another forum members item for sale. kthx

Bill Cosby sweater wearing looking motherfucker!

wow, crazy but why do you have dry ice on hand? LOL

some nice pictures of some nice cars !

Kinda figured you knew the first part torres but this way if anyone else is curious or has that question and actually uses that "search" button the answer would be there

First of all I used the dd-1 to set the gains so they are not clipped. The voltage differences in the gain is not going to be much once you set them with the dd1, and then run thru them with the gain matching tool on the cc-1. You would usually want to gain match with the amp that is putting out less power, which in theory could be hard to tell without a ac voltage display, since judging by an amps gain knob position is no where near full proof.

how to start this. The physical position of a gain knob does not mean anything. They could both be all the way up, or all the way down or dead center on half, either way just because they are the same position does not automatically mean the amp is making the same power per amp or channel. There are tolerances in amplifiers, and the parts used inside the amplifiers. It kinda comes down to Crescendo BC 5500, DC Audio 5k, and the Sundown 4500. Sure they are all the same boards and often the same parts, maybe smaller torrids here and there and some may have slightly larger capacitors. But at the end of the day they are tolerances that do not make them all equal. Hell One company claims 5500 rms, while one company claims 4500rms. Id tend to trust the lower amps rating, and know that my amplifiers is not rated at 2 or 5 percent THD unlike the 4500watt amp being power rated at 1%thd. But in the end I guess claiming larger numbers at a distorted volume is their way to sell a product and not be honest to a customer. Another good example of this would be the Rockford fostgate amps, look at the old RF 40001bd amps, some birth sheets where extremely high while others where just a tad above their rated power. Tolerances on parts come into play on everything. My understanding is when you gain match amps 4 channels, multiple monoblocks etc, the CC-1 is looking for the same level voltage (the same as a DMM would) only instead of looking for a number on the multimeter your looking for a light to light up when in use. I should of showed how to do it in the video, but for some reason my videos tend to get stupid long no matter how much I try to crop out the video. Im very shitty at video editing. LOL So since another was curious how it was done, I will do the same thing Sure can when I get some spare time! Glad you have too ray, thanks!

So I was fortunate enough to get a call from Steve a little over a week ago and asked me how Id like to try out one of the prototype CC-1 units, so of coarse I said sure!! Thanks to Ray, he was able to speed up the shipping process. After using the DD-1 for a while now, I have came to notice that every headunit does not clip at the same volume numbers. I know Ray said the CDA-105 is clip free at max volumes, My cda-105 clips at volume 28, while my buddies clips at volume 32. I also found out 2 identical JVC units with different volume levels. But the 2 alpine cda-117s where both clip free at max volumes. Moral is always checking the headunit, even if you think you know its max volume from a previous test. So far for the CC-1 I have only used it on maybe 3 4channel amps and about 5 monoblocks It seems to work very well and its honestly easier to use than I thought it would be. All you really do is pick a freq to set your crossovers/ssf at, find the track on the cd, and push the read button than turn the crossovers dial until the blue light is lit. It cant get much simpler imo and is even faster and easier to use than the DD-1! The nicest feature on the device I think would have to be the ability to gain match amps with it, 4 channel, 6channel, multiple monoblocks, this feature is nice!! Especially if your bridging a 4 channel amp down to 2 channels, you can ensure that both channels 1&2 and 3&4 are putting out the same power Anyways here is a video I did setting up a sundown 100.4 active and running the neopro10s in bandpass mode so they wont play below 71hz and above 5000hz, while the tweeters where crossed over at 5000hz and up. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e9Z57r1NsEI And of coarse had to do a little distance test right away too and blared some alvin and the chipmunks macarena thru my hood http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vCwiuBZlLBU

They are a great pair of tools to have imo. they save a lot of time, and replace more costly tools that you would need to buy. I love my pair!!! Even for those that claim the can do it all by ear, or use their oscopes, neither of those methods show distortion, and well if you can hear that 1% thd that amplifiers are rated at than you should be in the worlds record book or something! The dd-1 alone seems to be faster than setting a gain by ear, plus you know your radios max volume. 1 BIG thing Ive noticed already using the DD-1 for the past few months is that no 2 headunits are the same. Especailly when your buying that budget stuff. Theres been a couple jvc and alpine models now that have had different max undistorted max volumes, Im sure there will be more to come too yet. Oh and I loled at the part of you checking back and forth at your scope billy

I do not understand why the origional poster reported his own thread. So I guess I can lock it. lmao

Funny, if you glue 2 pieces of wood together and than cut them, mind explaining how your going to have 2 different cut pieces to interlock the other pieces when you cut both pieces after they are glued together like shown above?? Also why is your own team member having jeremy rebuild his vehicle since you build all the other team members?

You would want to cut the sheets induvisually if your doubling up all sides. cuts for the inside pieces will be different than the outside sheets if you build it right. You want to interlock the corner joints, and you can not do this by gluing the sheets together first. Screws or brad nailors will work. If your screwing, do not go screw crazy. You only want to screw every 4 inches or so, any more you actually weaken the wood! A lot of people make this mistake! The glue holds the wood together not the screws or nails!! It maybe best to clamp wood here and there to get them tightly together before you insert screw/nails. Here is a picture of how you interlock the corners to make the joints on the box even stronger, However if you glue the sheets together and cut once you cannot do this. Its twice the cutting work but worth it.

Probably in the fabrication forum where I sticked the thread http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/128634-kerfing-101-how-to-kerf-bend-mdf-wood-video/

Cool shit as always bro!!! I guess im stuck waiting til tomorrow for that other video *whistles* haha

eh nice box for your second time around!

I "erased" the other thread.

This just scares me. I dunno if Id want to drive the car anymore Cant wait to see the videos, Ill be waiting :D

ehh i guess 1 more ninja picture but that is all

TTT I has ninja updates!!! If I heard right he is going to upgrade farther. Oh and the car is on the dyno, I know numbers but I will let Steve tell yall those