audiofanaticz

Dont think any of those are really different x2

FYI You can turn horn chirp on/off on DEI alarms with a bitwriter. Some other alarms also allow for a silent arm/disarm too (usually by hitting the function key before lock/unlock).

Me too, I always liked some daytons, they seem to be played out nowadays, but every once in a while when you see a set on a car you gotta take a 2nd look. Wouldnt mind some myself just to be different. He just didnt save enough welfare checks to get the lambo kit yet!! but Im sure in a few years he will have lambos on his shitstang! Is it me or do all the wheels on them cars look idenical?

Talk to Derrick!! http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...hp?showuser=429 <- Thats his profile!

He has, he snitched on me for making a program in chat and gave it to arnold... What I made is still clueless. But maybe if he wouldnt talk his crap, and threaten his "COP NEIGHBOR" on us he wouldnt have problems.

lawl didnt work for me at all no matter what i did til you embedded it. Stephen and his bassless powers ftmfw!! Nice flexage Preston!

Either thats a run on sentance. Or he went from battery negative to engine block then to the vehicle chassis. When he should of done battery negative to engine block/alternator mounting stud, then negative battery terminal to vehicle chassis. Edit: You had it right the first time, you where just missing the negative from battery to vehicle chassis. And not do what you did from negative battery to engine block to chassis. And you could take it all a step farther and run a Positive power wire from your battery positive to your main fuse box under the hood (it dont have to be 1/0 wire, but running something bigger then factory like a 2 or 4 gauge will help your vehicles electronics dim less). More less what you did is "daisy chained" your grounds by adding the ground from your engine block to your chassis. This most likely added a lot more resistance and that resistance in proper grounding made your voltage suffer a bit.

Im not... Im comparing brand named items that have reputation as quality products to cheap ebay products that you buy on the cheap, but never get what you pay for out of them. :01nocomment8so: Theres tons of threads on this site alone of people that bought these cheap kits and they have failed numerous times. However, most people are not smart enough to use the search feature.

Yup, Price has nothing to do with quality... Why by sundown, rockford, stetsom, sd, cactus, DD, quality amps when you can pay less and get the same sq, power and quality with Boss, Pyle, Pyrmid, kole amps for 1/20th the price......

Clip indicator on the maxx-link is 100% useless!

LOL Screw that! A $30 hid kit will most likely fail continuously. A lifetime warranty dont mean much in my eyes... So now every couple months when the el-cheapo ballast burns up, you gotta get under the hood, take it out, put a factory bulb back in, look like a fool in a clown car driving with 2 different type bulbs, pay to ship your item back to the company, wait at least 1-2 weeks for them to receive and or fix your broken ballast, most likely pay return shipping, take out your factory bulb put the new ballast in. and then pray it dont happen again, which it probably will. Spend the money on a good kit once, and never have to worry again. Futurevision HIDs are great kits with and Bruno provides great customer service and fast shipping. I love mine and work flawlessly. Im also pretty sure SMD members get a 10% discount!!! I messed around with cheap kits in the past with these lifetime warranties and had to argue with the company because I was told I installed them wrong. I got so sick of the problems and doing what I listed aboved and got my futurevisions and never looked back!

my friends 4 door blazer is 48, but pretty much pointless. The position of your seats can also factor into it, as well as even visors. or bead seat covers. Things change so much, only way to tell is to test test and test.

Get a sundown!

Kind of a waste of time and money to make buss bars for just 2 batteries dont ya think? In reality a quality brand of 1/0 in short 2 feet lengths will handle well over 900 amps if not more (the 300 amp ratings on 1/0 wire is usually for a 15-18 foot piece of wire. A shorter piece of cable will handle well more then triple the current if not more). And if need be, you can always double it up. Other then that, a buss bar is just a piece of metal with holes drilled in it. All you need is copper or a lesser conductor like aluminum, measure out your needed spacing to line up the holes on the batteries. Dont even really need a drill press, you could get away with putting the bars in a vice and using a regular drill. Then depending if you want to use a bolt with a nut on the other side to secure your wires to it, or you can get a tap & die, and thread the holes you drilled, which will take a tad more time to make, but you wont have to worry about a nut on the other side of a bolt.

yea, as Accordman is saying. A sealed box will have a wider frequency bandwidth then a normal ported box (IE a flatter response box that is damn near just as loud at 30hz or 50hz). a port is simply just like a turbo in a way, making your driver(s) more efficient using the power, but you end up losing some of your frequency response. Id try to do a box under each seat, but being that they are 8's from a home stereo system, I wouldnt really expect much of anything more then bass that a decent set of 6.5inch components would offer you. Tho if you will get a real 150wrms out of this amp at 4 ohms and the speakers being home audio use, they maybe semi efficient due to most home receivers are rated around 100watts by 4. Is the truck a extended cap since you said he has a lot of people sit in the back and does it have a bench seat? or just some ghetto seats that fold up/down? Id almost try to build a box under the rear bench seat if thats the case, going to have way more room then the front seats. I think you could make 2 little T-lines and that may give you the most bang for your buck, and have 1 under each seat if space permits. Lots of things you could do really, but no one is willing to give out free designs

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Keep the box its max reccomended size, or a tad bigger! Just build the box inside the trunk.

Again, Great looking subs! Hats off to Fi/AA and Nick and Steve!! PS: I loving that basket!!!

Yes and No There is actually no such thing as 0 gauge wire. but 1/0 would be the same as what people call 0 gauge.

happy bday

I got the Alpine CDA-105. Being completly honest comming from a installer, this headunit replaced my old CDA-9885. Which was a nicer unit. Im way happier with the low end 105 vs my old 9885. My main reason being that my 9885 skipped around 147-148db. While I am unsure if my cda-105 skips at all. I burped a bit with it in competitions and always above a 150db never skipped on the tones. The cda-105 offered things my old headunit didnt. Such as the ability to use a flash drive which is what I really wanted to be sure to be skip free, and i am. You can also use a ipod with it (cord sold separately). The thing I liked the most about my cda-105 is I didnt have to go thru the hassle of buying a new xm brain box, installing it, then transferring my account to the new brain. My old Bluetooth kit also worked with the cda 105, so that was another thing I didnt have to buy new and re-install. The only real Dislike about the CDA-105 is the dot matrix display, but this is one of the main reasons the headunit is so cheap compared to a higher model like the cda-9886 or cda-9887 that have the nicer display. But I knew of this when I bought it, and it doesnt effect performance so I didnt care. Pioneers are nice. Had a Primeir last year or so. It was ok, but I couldnt stand the volume knob... The quarter turn to the right for volume up, or to the left for volume down, or push it left for last track, or right for next track. Over all it felt like a cheap plastic knob that was poorly designed and would keep me from buying pioneer again

lols Im the same way tho. but its like the opposite of what you said.

forgot to add, heating up the piano wire end when your trying to get thru the seal the first initial time it may help a lot. It will cause the glue to melt around the wire. Kinda like a hot knife thru butter

People use them a lot, and they do work and normally never result in problems. I say normally dont result in problems because sometimes when the amps power and gound 4awg inputs are right next to each other, there is not enough room to fit the reducers to work next to each other without touching due to their diameter to fit in the larger 1/0 power wire. So if your amps connections are POWER REMOTE GROUND. They will most likely work. but if you got a amp that has the power and ground next to each other they will most likely not work or have very little clearance between them (which could result in arching caused from bass vibrations). Personally, Id run a 1/0 to 4 gauge distribution block. This way you can still have your 1/0 wiring, but yet still use 4 awg wiring to connect your amps. If you put the distro block close to your amps, you will only need a 1 or 2 foot piece of 4awg wire.

Take a pair of needle nose pliers or a vice grip, and just try to pierce it thru the glue seal. Your better off trying to push it out from the inside, then trying to push it in from the outside. But try either way one or the other may work better for you.