sprkn_ranger

R.I.P. Ricky Sorry for your loss bro

Wow thats pretty cool! Any idea of what year these are from?

Man I'm sorry, it sucks to hear stuff like this

What are you lookin to do?

This....a great sub in a shitty install wont perform well.

Here ya go, I'll help you a lil bit: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/index.php?app=forums&module=extras&section=boardrules

Pick which one you like better IB4N8

Looks good man! Id say go for it.

Add silver to the list as well.

How you wire your sub is going to determine the final ohm load the amp sees. Let's say you have a sub that is a dual voice coil sub. Let's say that it is a D4. That means that each coil is a 4 ohm coil. If you wire them in parallel, that brings the impedance down to 2 ohms. If you wire it in series, that will increase the impedance to 8. So depending on how you wire it determines what ohm load you amp sees. The lower ohm load your amp sees, the more power your amp will give to the speaker, but it also requires more amperage from your electrical system. Read as much as you can from the sites linked above and then read it again till it really sinks in.

And audioque, Dc, Everest, dad, obsidian. Thanks, I knew I was forgetting some

You can look into Fi, AA, DD, and crossfire as well. Just a few more off the top of my head.

Yes the neg terminal on the batt is the best ground you can get. After alt casing. Really? I can see that being the second best but I don't have any proof to back it up. I'd like to hear your thoughts on it though

Yes the neg terminal on the batt is the best ground you can get.

Those buss bars have some time put into them! very nice touch to tap all the holes as well.

Woohoo! Congrats to you and the wife man!!

Hmmm link is broken...I'm on mobile so maybe that's why. But I think I've seen that video. Good luck doin it man! It's not gonna be easy if you can pull it off.

Usually rap. i listen to mostly everything though. and ive seen a person get a decent hair trick out of these subs in a trunk car Well if you listen to a lil bit of everything, I would tune closer to like 33-36hz I'm tuned at 34.7ish and I play well down into the 20's no prob. An just cause one guy was able to in a trunk car doesn't mean anyone can do it. Its very dependent on the vehicle and install. Oh and can you link a vid of that hairtrick on those subs?

What kind of music do you listen to? 29hz is way too low IMO. And your probobly not gonna get hairtricks outta 2 12's. At least not good hairtricks.

I don't want anymore kids cause the three I have is plenty, but man I sure miss that anxious feeling at the hospital where it's JUST about to happen. I'd imagine your about at that point right now! Again, congrats!

If you fire the subs/port forward AND seal them off from the trunk, you won't have any pressure issues in the trunk.

How are the subs in the trunk now? Subs/port back, up, forward? Maybe instead I paying a shop to wall your car for 2 15's you can have a shop build a box for you that will let you fire your subs forward into the cabin without a full blown wall. Then you can still keep your rear seats and it will help with your trunk lid issues. What kind of car do you have by te way?

I think its a cool product Steve. Of course, not everybody will like it or buy it, but I know I will. Haven't had my Stinger die yet, but I have to recalibrate the piece of shit weekly. I think if you can keep pricing a little under the Dakota gauges, many will be sold. no joke bro, i am not just complaining about one bad product i had. Things break, i realize that. But I replaced that thing about 6 times.....i like them so i keep buying them. My ONLY complaint is the quality. Other then that i love those things. The straw that broke the camels back was the two i put in Chickens Hoopty. The one up front AND the one in back both stopped working. The one in back has no SPL on it at all. Then the one i had in my Tahoe for years just stopped working recently. I can't take it no more LOL! Sad, 'cuz like i said, i do like those. And with that price point you mentioned, you will spend less on VM-1 than on a stinger in the long run...and be more accurate while your at it. No brainier IMO.

Damn, around $60 is VERY reasonable...I was expecting more than that.

I didn't see ANY hate in those two posts that were quoted, just opinions on a product Anyways, I'd love to get my hands on one, just need to figure out where I am going to stick it. I like rays idea of replacing the stock meter in the cluster.