Tarball

Gotta love science.

Thank You. you are the first person that sort of agreed with me I actually agree also that it would be nice to have a dash mount product to monitor your system in real time. But I'm a geek and I do not represent the majority of bass heads on this topic. Regardless, this isn't the approrpiate thread. What you are talking about is a completely different product. Start a new thread somewhere and bring the soapbox with you...you may be onto "something" though there probably isn't a large market for the item.

Always a day late and a dollar short for me ... So where can I order these from now and how much will they run ?

This sub that you have, is it dual 4 ohm or dual 1 ohm ?

If it's going to run near a heat source you may want to use some heat insulated shielding (depending on how hot the source) Here is a pic of what I used. I'm sure there are multiple options but I picked this up at the loca autoparts store in the performance section. Heat shielding for starter wire.

OP, did you ever figure this one out?

Liked and submitted!

Remove neg at the power source first.

When your wife mentions divorce. Then you choose which to quit on the wife or the hobby

Your way sounds like a pain lol Yeah, it was a pain, I wouldn't recommend it at all.

Try to avoid liftin engine blocks, transmissions, and other very heavy items (large rocks/stones, steel molds, etc) besides getting a job done there is only pain in the future for you. Believe me, I used to to it all the time back in the day also. My back is f@#$ed for life. Sure lots of time I have no pain and no issues but all it take is some simple little thing the wrong way and BAM!! taken out by lifting a baby, or a chair or something small and absurd. I don't know anyone that "used to" lift real heavy stuff and does not have back problems now.

I recently ran into this issue and i stripped and soldered the 2 ends together. It was not pretty. Had a big solder buldge that I then had to grind down. I like the 1/0 connector idea then maybe shrink wrap on top of that + etape and loom. A few other good ideas in this thread.

I want it!

Does this come with a flux capacitor?

7-8^3 @34hz 14-16 ^2 inches of port area Shared space is fine. use some bracing Just add the requirement for both subs. Remember that the port does not count towards speaker chamber volume. If you port the area you have for a box folks on here will often help you designs the box all the way down to a cutsheet. First thing you want to think about is supporting electrical system (battery, big 3, alt, wire) . Welcome to SMD!

define belt wrap. I believe belt wrap is the percentage of the pully the the belt actually comes in contact with. This contact introduces friction. Less area with pully/belt contact = less friction = gretaer chance of belt slip. More area with pully/belt contact = more friction = lesser chance of belt slip. The above assumes a properly fit belt and a good working tensioner if applicable.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/1940-fs-section-rulesread-before-posting/

VERY different smell. You'd know it when you smell it. Tires obviously smell like rubber. Clutch...well, it smells like clutch. Similar to brakes that got too hot and glazed over but still unique. Maybe this guys nose doesnt work or something. having enough money to buy a Z06 doesn't = a person with common sense.

2nd dibs

I'm using a bigger fuse b/c I ordered 175 amp fuses but the lady sent me 300 amp fuses so I used them anyways. The original fuse blew when I forgot to take the negative off my batt and took the power wire off my alternator and it grounded on its own casing. Basically my wiring is fine. Everything works great and looks nice and clean. I'm just curious what problems can be caused by using a fuse that is bigger than I'm supposed to. I'm guessing I need to be around 200-250 amp for fuses. You did say that you replaced the wire on the other side of the fuse to the vehicles fuse relay center with 1/0 right ? If yes you should be good. If no then you are at risk. Edit. Wait how did the fuse blow? Do you have your alt power connected on the same or opposite side of the fuse as your battery? I'm confused. Diagram/Pic would be nice.

why are you using a bigger fuse to the truck? Have you increased the load on the trucks electrical? more importantly, why did it blow the fuse. It really does sound like your pulling juice to the starter through that OEM fuse block, Pump the starter wire straight into the battery.

how big is bigger?

I dont know what vehicle this is going in but generally you only need 1 fuse alt to bat. (some people dont use a fuse on this wire) its such a short run that odds of something going wrong in the middle are slim as long as common sense precautions are used when installing. The run from front to back only needs one fuse unless you plan to put a second power source in the rear (battery). 300a front to rear 300a alt to bat (if you want to use a fuse here).

no, SERIES. well, something isnt right. what is your ohm reading per coil? series should increase the resistance not lower it.