bkolfo4

My wife's car has a 12" Q sealed on 800 watts in the trunk. Awesome SQ and loud. . .

When you play a sub below tuning, it is like playing it sitting out on a table, unless the port is so small the sub acts like a leaky sealed box. Either way, most subs will not handle anywhere near their THERMALLY rated power handling in one of these conditions. Edit - changing the port size is not going to help. Either tune lower to play the lower notes, or set the subsonic filter higher to control the excursion.

That's a lot of idk's Why down grade the amp. If you have the remote gain, just keep your fingers from cranking it up all the time. Extra power is a great thing, and it will be there if you want to use it for short periods of time.

Comparing the exact same model sub in the same alignment, this statement is more than likely true. Comparing two different subs or alignments, it will not always be true. AA Arsenals would be a nice sub for ~500 watts.

I don't agree with this. I am not sure why everyone thinks you have to push a sub near its limits to sound better. That would imply any sub would sound bad at low volume. Power compression, heat, drop in BL force all work against you at higher power/more excursion. My 18's in my HT don't move more than 4-5mm 90% of the time. The bass is very clean, very low distortion, and VERY loud. . .

Net

This is true many times on the low end, but the upper end is more the sub and crossover frequency.

I have a single sensor (dual sensor compatible), AC powered TL in perfect condition. Works with win XP, but I am not sure about win 7. Need a decent offer or I'll just hang onto it. Trying to gather $$$ for a Mustang II front end for my Nova PM me if interested.

I have a single sensor (dual sensor compatible), AC powered TL in perfect condition. Need a decent offer or I'll just hang onto it. Trying to gather $$$ for a Mustang II front end for my Nova PM me if interested.

I ran a C-Pillar wall in my suburban. Loved it. Much nicer than a box in the back.

You are.

Send it back. . .

With a 45 in the corner, and an opening that is only 2" wider that the port, the effective length of that port is longer than 13.5". This made me laugh!! 55 sqin is not too much port for a 15" woofer.

But I think he said above he changed the port wall on his own and now has 8.75" at the port inside the box. OP - can you post up a sketch with dimensions of what you actually built??

You don't understand the difference between direct current and alternating current (don't feel bad, a LOT of people don't understand it around here). Your meter measures DC resistance. That is just the resistance of the wire through the coil. Music/tones/etc are NOT DC, they are AC. The voltage swings back and forth from negative to positive (that is what makes the cone move in and out). The voice coil is a COIL. It has an inductance, so the impedance (the term used for AC "resistance") varies with frequency. Your coils have a DC resistance of 1.3 ohms. That does not matter to you, since you will not be applying DIrect Current. They have an average impedance (based on the range of frequencies they are designed to play) of 2 ohms. There is nothing wrong with your subs. Don't make us tell you again. . .just hook them up and enjoy.

So if you have a 12" piece behind a double baffle wall, you have 13.5" total from the face of the wall to the rear of the port wall, is that what you are saying? That leaves an opening 8.75" wide inside the box? Do you have any type of 45 in the corner behind the port? Just trying to determine if your box design is what you think it is. . .Port noise can get very loud when you are playing below tuning.

I tried to get vids of the subs, but they really dont move. I only run about 350 watts RMS each to them and they move MAYBE 1/4". But the bass is incredible!!!

Disconnect the turn on in the RCA's, turn the radio on, then use a small jumper to jump from the BATT input on the amp to the remote input. this will turn th eamp on. If the noise is there, the lead in the RCA's is not the issue, if it is gone, run a new remote turn on. My guess is that is not the issue. 4 out of 5 times it is a bad ground, ground loop, bad/cheap RCA or RCA input jack on the amp or deck, or just a crappy amp. Brian

Is that port 20" deep, or is it an L? If it is 20" deep and the box is only 23" deep, that is a problem. 6.5" wide port with a choked off opening inside the box that is only 2.25" wide. If it is an L, then it is longer than 20". Would be 23" minimum.

This. Nothing to do with rounding up, heating up, DMM leads, blah, blah, blah. Just this. A DMM is measuring DC reaistance, not AC impedance. Been stated a million times.

Input a V on the back wall in the middle when I can. Just make sure the port is not restricted to less than 1/2 width at the corner. You can also cut the end of the port walls at a 45 to take away the point where it turns.

That's what I did, but the vibration eventually caused the MDF to eat into the headliner material.

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THIS!!!!! The OP's original question had NOTHING to do with his electrical system, but that is where everybody jumps to just because he mentions 8 drivers. . .

It always makes me laugh when people jump straight to the alt and battery issue. Both my suburban (16k watts) and my Astro (24k watts) had just 1 alt. . .9 batts in the suburban, 15 in the Astro. Never had an issue. Suburban was my daily driver for 7 years, first 4 years I ran 4000 watts on stock alt and two batts under the hood, last three was the wall with an excessive amperage 250 amp alt and I added 7 group 31's in the back.