Supercharged DCs

Sexy box

MDF is a bit cheaper, heavier, and works great for what we use it for. Birch is a bit more costly, lighter, and also works great. I've also seen a box made of average plywood, it was shit

To an extent, yes. But this isn't really a topic about building a specific box to MY vehicle, as much as building a optimal box for certain vehicle. Does that make sense or am I babbling?

I believe you are referring to finding the resonant frequency of the vehicle, which does tie into what I'm asking. So thanks

I have a question for Ray, Don, Ric, and every other experienced car audio vet. Is there a certain method to building a optimal subwoofer enclosure to work well with the vehicle. I'll use Katies PCA truck that Ric uses in testing the 8" woofers as an example. He says it is built to the vehicle, and offers the best results (and IIRC, that the recommended enclosures offered by the companies couldn't hold a candle to the box.) Is this achieved simply by trial and error and years of experience, or is the a technique to it? I'm sure the answer is a combination of both, but it's something that's been on my mind. What do you look for when building the enclosure, if there is a technique to it? I will completely understand if no advice is given, this is how y'all make a living and do the fantastic builds that y'all do, and I know if I had that knowledge I would keep it under lock and key. I'm just looking for any bit of information on this, even if it's a one word post... Thank's y'all.

There isn't a SMD 12" woofer available mate ^^^

No one knows, you would have to test it yourself. Music is dynamic so you won't see the same power at all times from it.

Hell yeah, my 18s gonna be icy

You can get alot for that price range,Hybrid Legatia's,Blues Car Audio,Hertz MLK'setc..... Thank you, definitely seems like name brands to me...

What vehicle, what will be powering it, and what are your goals?

That would only give you 6sqin of port, or 2.4 per cube I believe. You will need much more than that. I cannot comment on a design or suggestion, as I have never used the L7 8" before. Just wanted to point out that bit about your port area.

It's so little. Look at the wee lil baby Looks like a small powerhouse for sure.

I was like eh, and then the bass hit, and I was like ZOMG that's funny

Looking good, more pictures please

Baby got back! Looks great man, I'll probably be taking tons of pictures of mine. I'm sure it's like Christmas for everyone who's ordered and received their DC equipment!

More pictures please I wanna see it's ass lolol... Damn I can't wait for my Lv5s...

Holy shit that is a beautiful woofer... I wonder how the Lv6 motor would perform if built into a 10"...

Congrats man, good to see things are looking up for you.

a sub cools itslf by moving period!!!! it needs to move lower... volume does give you less current draw and thd that does cause less heat but then the sub is not cooling itself by moving ether so it can get just as hot with low volumes and then again it might not get hot at all depends on the box subs are box dependent It is impossible to blow a sub by running it on too little power (whether it be thermally or mechanically). Period!!!!! Where did he say running it on too low of power may blow the subwoofer?

I'm not sure if it needs it, but I went easy on my 3515sc when I had first gotten it. Ran it on 200w for a couple of weeks.

Sexay!

If you have the space for a proper enclosure, the 6 15s will have 150% motor force and roughly the same cone area.

I would think so...not to mention the concentration it takes (At least me) to type words that bad, and still make them legible. More mental work that just typing the work as it is actually spelled. Bad grammar is a talent maybe?

Is it 600obo for one or all of them?

Your not making any sense... What are you trying to say?