Joe X

Reliable specs for those subs are not available, I am guessing it will be about 3.2-3.8 cubes net per sub. Maybe email these guys.. proceed on guessed specs is not a good idea but I just think that you won't be able to fit them.

On those maximum dims you won't fit them, also there are VFL comp, extreme etc.. specific model?

6 inches instead of 3 will be alright.

Remember that's net internal the ported box will be bigger. If you use the Torres you are good to go if not post your maximum dims and I will suggest you something.

If you wish you can add just a couple of inches. with some care you can just place the 3 inches part as well. Proceed as you wish and let me know, I will tell you the effects of what you did.

Also they need 1.75 cubic feet each minimum for sealed, are you sure you can meet the spec?? Also would be interesting to know the spec of the enclosure you put the REs in.. that could be the problem with them, you have good enough amplification, don't know about your installation.

Sure you don't want to consider some other subs??

If it bothers you to cut such small piece of wood you can cut it longer, you will be tuned a bit lower, let me know how long you want to cut it and I will tell you how lower you will be tuned to. Just a few inches only please to prevent running into some other issue.

Tuned to 45Hz? if you are going with a prefab check that it's spec of the box is about right for the subs themselves.

This one is just right, your volume is within recommendation. Going top to bottom will lead to vent area ratio issues.

What 12" subs are you going to use? Your original port can work.

Your first design can work, you can make a simpler thing but whatever, what I don't know is how you calculated that box, Pioneer subs (many of them) work in rather small volumes. and also why the mini pics?

To choose subwoofers you start by getting the maximum dims of the box you can fit..and forget about the lanzar!

Your box shoi¿uld be tuned to 30 Hz and a net internal volume of 22.25 cuibic feet, do you know how it's tuned 22.25 cubes are you sure about that? Fixed

Your box should be tuned to 30 Hz and a net internal volume of 2.25 cuibic feet (per chamber), do you know how it's tuned?? Also if your amp has a subsonic filter it must be set below 28Hz, you should check polartity of all of your connections, just to name a few.

For the box just post your maximum dims and I will suggest a very easy to build design, For the amp I would recommend this: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23874_MB-Quart-ONX1.1000D.html Does rated and sounds clean only $30 above your budget hope not a big deal.

Yes if the length of the port is 24 and is all external, the "length of external port" field cannot be above 24 (like 36). And ok if your drawing was made just fast but the holes of the subs cannot be that size.

its all good i figured it would come down to more brand association. im deciding between the kicker comp 8's infinity reference 8's or the fosgate p1 8's (i would get the p2s but the d2 are $80 Based on price ok but are really different sounding stuff.

Ok here it is: Kicker CVR 15" on 3 different boxes: 10cuft@32Hz on green 3cuft@32Hz on orange 1cuft@32Hz on white Pretty different right??

I would make a box solid for future replacement of those drivers or make me a single good quality driver box and save the space for omething else... of course that's just me!

Only this: =6570626&SearchClickout[ignore]=1"]http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_37709_Hifonics-HFX12D4.html?SearchClickout[query_id]=6570626&SearchClickout[ignore]=1

Curious about the amp you are using.

The length of the external art of the port longer than the length of the port itself?

It fits your application perfectly but I just can't really recommend new Autotek, also it seems that are overrated.

Right, but 4 cubes after displacements or "effective" volume, that's the simplest ported design for higher power dual drivers (9 parts), the table saw, jigsaw, a drill and a proper screwdriver will be basic tools, you need high quality wood glue, and silicone caulk as a sealeant, MDF screws besides the wood itself and something to measure and draw your cuts. As long as you do you cuts perfectly it will be really easy to build. Hope others will step in to complement this explanation.