jrchevy87

yes hardener is required and it comes with the resin, sorry my brains not fully functional at 3 in the morning lol Does it I was looking for some but it is separate :/ and I'm FiberglassingI for laughs kearn something new you can buy it seperately as you have to mix more hardener the lower the temp is, getting the ratio right is crucial if you mix a little too much itll harden in minutes and creates a bit of heat that causes stress cracks in the glass, and if you mix too little it takes forever to dry, you also need to make sure its mixed well or youll end up with soft spots

yes hardener is required and it comes with the resin, sorry my brains not fully functional at 3 in the morning lol

Where are you from? Or maybe you tell me what I would need and you explain it and I can post my progress here? Like taking am online class im from south jersey but if you give me a week im working on a little fiberglass 8 inch enclosure but i gotta come up with the money, i was gonna put it on hold to finish my jeep but i need to get it done anyway so i can sell it

Lol you posted my answesr at the same time I posted Would t u be able to see the wrinkle first anyways? Tad confused yes you will see them the trick is to stretch it nice and tight and i like to use staples to hold it in place, i dont know of any other way that works, ive tryed spray adhesive but it turns into a goo when the resin is applied and lets go

fleece is a type of fabric, its what some blankets are made out of but dont get thick fleece cuz it will soak up A LOT of resin, and mat is fiberglass strands stuck together that gives it strength

if i had the money id do a writeup but glass is expensive and ive already done my projects, its pretty easy tho once you get a feel for it edit: i forgot to add a shit ton of sandpaper and some body filler

fleece, mat, resin and practice lol, the hardest part is not getting wrinkles in the fabric and bubbles in the mat but im sure if you make a thread in that section someone will be able to shed some more light on the subject, id deffinately be tuned in im decent with glass but im always looking for more knowledge

look in the fabrication section theres a lot of useful info there http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/forum/15-fabrication-fiberglass-etc/

4 12's on 2500 watts is gonna make some noise but its not gonna move the amount of air required for a good hair trick

I agree but I have to point out do NOT put two different subs the same box without a divider. I know most of is know this but I figured I'd put that out there for anyone that took that to mean u can use different subs in the same airspace

I forget the amp rating but its a 20 ah bat. Well be using it on a 1500 Watt system with an optima yellowtop and big three on factory 120 amp alt. Right now he drops to 12.1 on heavy bass.

my brother in law just got one, we havent had the time to install it yet but ill do a review when we do cuz i just got the same one too but im waiting on an amp and sub

look for royal excelene welding cable, its true 0 gauge with really tough insulation and i got 25 feet for 68 bucks

on a serious note tho, i never liked the idea of a square sub cuz it seems like the corners of the surround would be stiffer than the rest of it and i dont know for sure but it would seem that would cause non-linear movement of the cone

i dont know if i want to buy that and smash it or buy it and install it just to say i did lol

np lol it happens to us all from time to time

you'll be perfectly fine, its like running multiple batts in the back but just one big battery instead

I would deffinately do two runs because the body is pretty thin and the newer the car the more aluminum used in most cased so that adds resistance to your ground circuit. If you've got the extra wire you could do a neg from batt to frame as well just for extra assurance

it deffinately will help, i cant say how much with the stock alt but extra grounds are never a bad idea especially on newer cars with the new aluminum alloys and thinner sheet metal being used

theres no such thing as too many grounds, whether theyll help or not is dependant on your setup

Wrong. Where are you coming up with this??? I doubt you have ever seen a dual 1 ohm sub playing music at 1/3 ohm, or a dual 2 playing at .6-.7 if you actually paid attention to this whole thread you would see that i got that from his first post were it stated the actual resistance of the voice coil(2 ohm version=1.27 ohms actual) and does it really friggen matter if ive seen a sub playing with that low of resistance i think not, doesnt matter who you are but running an amp that low is can cause overheating and eventual death of the amp not to mention very inefficient and .635 ohms is a lot safer than running .325

I would be too. With the dual 2 ohm parallel u will see .6 to .7 ohms which is close enough imo

welding cable has some of the best insulation ive seen for how thin the insulation is, but say it rubs on something or something gets kicked up into it then the insulation could wear down and create a short, this goes for any wire, and you never know what could happen. worst case scenario you push your sub a little too hard and short a coil which in turn overloads the amp and causes an internal short(happened to me unfortunately) without a fuse the wire will continue to carry the current untill the wire gets so hot it melts and could cause a fire

im running 1500 watts on a 119 amp alt in my jeep wrangler and i dont have too much voltage drop, ive got all 1/0 gauge and the big three on a factory batt(im working on getting a new starting batt and a little 20 amp hour batt in the back just to keep it steady), the alt charge wire on my jeep was 6 gauge so upgrading that is a must and helped me maintain an extra volt under load

Almost all frames have some sort of resistance and copper is a much better conductor than steel I prefer to run seperate grounds. The frame ground is just in case he pulls more amps than his ground wire can handle before resistance goes up he's got the chassis ground to compensate