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Nails vs Screws for boxes


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I believe someone did a test to see which joint could support more weight: just glue, glue+brad nails, and glue+drywall screws. Both brad nails and screws were able to hold a fair amount more weight than just glue, and screws won out overall.

Link to said test?

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If your MDF splits when you screw it together, you are not predrilling the right size hole!!

Nails are great, but they will NOT pull the joint together as tight as screwing it together (you can see for yourself by nailing two pieces together then screw them and watch more glue push out of the joint).

I nail 80% of my boxes, but there are times that screws work best.

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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If your MDF splits when you screw it together, you are not predrilling the right size hole!!

Nails are great, but they will NOT pull the joint together as tight as screwing it together (you can see for yourself by nailing two pieces together then screw them and watch more glue push out of the joint).

I nail 80% of my boxes, but there are times that screws work best.

Current Build:

1999 Tahoe #ComingSoon

Previous Build(s):

Crossfire Magnum

5k Pontiac G6 GT

 

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necropost from hell. This topic is 3 years old lol.

But might as well join in, on my last box I used titebond 2 and a shit load of clamps, along with 1.5 inch brads every 4-6 inches. Just 1/2 birch though. Box has held up great, letting my buddy use it for awhile too.

On 1/4/2013 at 9:31 PM, HatersGonnaHate said:

Wow. 184 posts and I think you're a fucking asshole.

 

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  • 3 years later...

It's 2018 and I'm wondering if using only Brad Nails and Titebond 2 is sufficient for building a sub woofer box for 5K Watt RMS+ enclosures. From all the stuff I've been reading it sounds like people are saying not to use brad nails and to use screws and glue for a better joint contact for the glue to dry.  I wanted to hear people's opinions on the Brad Nails before I spend $300 on a Dewalt 20V Brad Nailer.

DC Audio - Singer Alternators - Knukonceptz - XS Power - Hybrid Audio - Rockford Fosgate - Second Skin Audio - SMD - Sundown Audio - Elemental Designs

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Screws if you don't have a shit ton of clamps or want to continue building while the glue drys.

IMG_2192_zpshyj4gsph.jpg

This is what i have done in the past. Layout, pre-drill and counter sink before building. Is it necessary? No just had fun doing it.

 

IMG_2221_zpshctuaxmf.jpg 

Filler for all the hoe and small imperfections.

IMG_2239_zps4i8gviez.jpg

Making sure it fit.

 

IMG_2269_zpsfoxxhln5.jpg

Primer, color match paint and finish product. I work slow so took about 5 days but happy with out come.

 

IMG_2301_zpspmz0e2gt.jpg

Installed and banging in the wife's 2012 Malibu.

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, moh.vze.com said:

It's 2018 and I'm wondering if using only Brad Nails and Titebond 2 is sufficient for building a sub woofer box for 5K Watt RMS+ enclosures. From all the stuff I've been reading it sounds like people are saying not to use brad nails and to use screws and glue for a better joint contact for the glue to dry.  I wanted to hear people's opinions on the Brad Nails before I spend $300 on a Dewalt 20V Brad Nailer.

Brads keep stuff from moving around but they are no replacement for screws or clamps. Brads can’t pull a joint together. I’d spend $300 on clamps long before I’d spend that much on a brad nailer. 

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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