*5/19/13 Vid!* and some *SURPRISES!* coming! 95 Bonneville SSE Walled (DC, Cactus Sounds)

[BFF Larry]

Update: 3/23/12

I'm gonna brace the box alittle more with 2x4

[uhoh_45]

haha i noticed you viewing my build log and see you stole some ideas with the 2x4s haha

[BFF Larry]

haha i noticed you viewing my build log and see you stole some ideas with the 2x4s haha

you got me!

i saw all the bracing you were doing, and then you started adding 2x4 in the mix, then i was like, shoot, i guess the more bracing, the less of your consciousness is bugging u on box flex.

but are you gonna be fiberglassing inside the box?

[Brian Mizell]

First off I want to commend you on your dedication and ALL THE WORK YOU HAVE DONE! Cause you have done a lot of work to the vehicle.

Secondly, I don't want to come off as an @sshole or smart @ss, I just wanted to give some constructive criticism.

I know all your wires and such are covered, but many people will critically judge your install by how clean (or neat) the install is. Its a bit too late now, but on your next vehicle you should run one large power cable from the alt to the batteries (put the proper size fuse about 1 foot from the battery) also run the same size wire from the output of the alt to the Positive terminal on the battery.

Try and keep all the cables for multiple batteries grouped together as neatly as possible, then run power cable from there to a distribution block. Put the proper size fuse inline for each amp (unless the amp has the fuse built into it such as some of the ones your using). Keep your ground wires as short as possible and the same size as the power wires, this will help keep unwanted noise to a minimum.

Now I have never built a box inside the vehicle like you did, so I am a bit inexperienced in this area but will throw my 2 cents worth at you..... lol

I am concerned that the box is going to rattle itself apart after a while, considering the way the inside was put together. My idea to help hold it together good, it would be a substantial amount of weight added to the vehicle, but you might consider using 1" angle iron in all the corners of the box to hold it together. Just before you put it in, drill the proper sized holes about 3" apart down the length of the angle iron. Then use something that soaks into MDF/wood products very well. I like to used liquid nails in the seams, it is messy as hell but it seals the seams very well when when pushed in with your fingers, and it has exceptional strength. Use some drywall screws to hold the angle iron to the wood, make sure the angle iron is pushed tightly into the corner when putting in the screws. Also I would put the screws down one side, (making absolutely sure it seated in the corner good) and then go down the other side. This will make sure the box is squared up good, and the boards are pulled together nice and tight.

I have heard some people state that the fumes from the liquid nails will cause the surround to come loose from the basket or cone. I have personally never had this problem.

But just to be safe (if your really worried about it) let the liquid nails dry for a few days in 70 + degree weather before installing the woofers.

The spray foam you used to fill voids in around the box, it may or may not do a good job, but it doesn't look good at all. (please don't take this offensively) I am just giving my opinion.

If you fee you must use it, then when its cured.... use a utility knife and trim off the excess foam. You may leave just a little bit extra, and then use some sand paper and sand it smooth to match the contour of the interior to make them appear to flow together seamlessly, (you may need to use a sanding block in some areas, and or a firm foam pad/bare hands in other places).

As for the fiber glass work, make sure you clean the plastic pieces of the interior very good with some lacquer thinner, then sand it with some 80 grit to make sure the resin/mat sticks. Also I suggest sanding the MDF with 80 grit before applying resin/mat, it will bond much much better if its sanded. Once the resin has cured.... you have to sand it smooth enough so it looks nice, then you can glue your choice of material onto it.

When you do this, (if you have to use multiple pieces of material because of curves and bends in the area to be covered) make your seams are cut straight, and look nice and neat. They should be precisely the same on both sides and top & bottom of the area your working on. It's easiest if you get what they call 4 way stretch vinyl, and use a large enough piece to cover the entire area. This will most certainly require help from a friend or two, so it will stretch to match the contour of the area to be covered. When it comes to adhesive or glue, I suggest using 3M super trim adhesive, the 3M general purpose adhesive will start to come loose from plastic or other vinyl pieces when the sun warms it up.

I hope this helps you out, I just wanted to help you to have a good looking system as well as a good sounding system.

[Kevin M]

First off I want to commend you on your dedication and ALL THE WORK YOU HAVE DONE! Cause you have done a lot of work to the vehicle.

Secondly, I don't want to come off as an @sshole or smart @ss, I just wanted to give some constructive criticism.

I know all your wires and such are covered, but many people will critically judge your install by how clean (or neat) the install is. Its a bit too late now, but on your next vehicle you should run one large power cable from the alt to the batteries (put the proper size fuse about 1 foot from the battery) also run the same size wire from the output of the alt to the Positive terminal on the battery.

Try and keep all the cables for multiple batteries grouped together as neatly as possible, then run power cable from there to a distribution block. Put the proper size fuse inline for each amp (unless the amp has the fuse built into it such as some of the ones your using). Keep your ground wires as short as possible and the same size as the power wires, this will help keep unwanted noise to a minimum.

Now I have never built a box inside the vehicle like you did, so I am a bit inexperienced in this area but will throw my 2 cents worth at you..... lol

I am concerned that the box is going to rattle itself apart after a while, considering the way the inside was put together. My idea to help hold it together good, it would be a substantial amount of weight added to the vehicle, but you might consider using 1" angle iron in all the corners of the box to hold it together. Just before you put it in, drill the proper sized holes about 3" apart down the length of the angle iron. Then use something that soaks into MDF/wood products very well. I like to used liquid nails in the seams, it is messy as hell but it seals the seams very well when when pushed in with your fingers, and it has exceptional strength. Use some drywall screws to hold the angle iron to the wood, make sure the angle iron is pushed tightly into the corner when putting in the screws. Also I would put the screws down one side, (making absolutely sure it seated in the corner good) and then go down the other side. This will make sure the box is squared up good, and the boards are pulled together nice and tight.

I have heard some people state that the fumes from the liquid nails will cause the surround to come loose from the basket or cone. I have personally never had this problem.

But just to be safe (if your really worried about it) let the liquid nails dry for a few days in 70 + degree weather before installing the woofers.

The spray foam you used to fill voids in around the box, it may or may not do a good job, but it doesn't look good at all. (please don't take this offensively) I am just giving my opinion.

If you fee you must use it, then when its cured.... use a utility knife and trim off the excess foam. You may leave just a little bit extra, and then use some sand paper and sand it smooth to match the contour of the interior to make them appear to flow together seamlessly, (you may need to use a sanding block in some areas, and or a firm foam pad/bare hands in other places).

As for the fiber glass work, make sure you clean the plastic pieces of the interior very good with some lacquer thinner, then sand it with some 80 grit to make sure the resin/mat sticks. Also I suggest sanding the MDF with 80 grit before applying resin/mat, it will bond much much better if its sanded. Once the resin has cured.... you have to sand it smooth enough so it looks nice, then you can glue your choice of material onto it.

When you do this, (if you have to use multiple pieces of material because of curves and bends in the area to be covered) make your seams are cut straight, and look nice and neat. They should be precisely the same on both sides and top & bottom of the area your working on. It's easiest if you get what they call 4 way stretch vinyl, and use a large enough piece to cover the entire area. This will most certainly require help from a friend or two, so it will stretch to match the contour of the area to be covered. When it comes to adhesive or glue, I suggest using 3M super trim adhesive, the 3M general purpose adhesive will start to come loose from plastic or other vinyl pieces when the sun warms it up.

I hope this helps you out, I just wanted to help you to have a good looking system as well as a good sounding system.

Your sage advice with no posts makes you come off as a total twat. Why did you feel the need to write a novel? Way off base, way out of line. Goto to Diyma if you want to be a know-it-all and insult people.

[BFF Larry]

First off I want to commend you on your dedication and ALL THE WORK YOU HAVE DONE! Cause you have done a lot of work to the vehicle.

Secondly, I don't want to come off as an @sshole or smart @ss, I just wanted to give some constructive criticism.

I know all your wires and such are covered, but many people will critically judge your install by how clean (or neat) the install is. Its a bit too late now, but on your next vehicle you should run one large power cable from the alt to the batteries (put the proper size fuse about 1 foot from the battery) also run the same size wire from the output of the alt to the Positive terminal on the battery.

Try and keep all the cables for multiple batteries grouped together as neatly as possible, then run power cable from there to a distribution block. Put the proper size fuse inline for each amp (unless the amp has the fuse built into it such as some of the ones your using). Keep your ground wires as short as possible and the same size as the power wires, this will help keep unwanted noise to a minimum.

Now I have never built a box inside the vehicle like you did, so I am a bit inexperienced in this area but will throw my 2 cents worth at you..... lol

I am concerned that the box is going to rattle itself apart after a while, considering the way the inside was put together. My idea to help hold it together good, it would be a substantial amount of weight added to the vehicle, but you might consider using 1" angle iron in all the corners of the box to hold it together. Just before you put it in, drill the proper sized holes about 3" apart down the length of the angle iron. Then use something that soaks into MDF/wood products very well. I like to used liquid nails in the seams, it is messy as hell but it seals the seams very well when when pushed in with your fingers, and it has exceptional strength. Use some drywall screws to hold the angle iron to the wood, make sure the angle iron is pushed tightly into the corner when putting in the screws. Also I would put the screws down one side, (making absolutely sure it seated in the corner good) and then go down the other side. This will make sure the box is squared up good, and the boards are pulled together nice and tight.

I have heard some people state that the fumes from the liquid nails will cause the surround to come loose from the basket or cone. I have personally never had this problem.

But just to be safe (if your really worried about it) let the liquid nails dry for a few days in 70 + degree weather before installing the woofers.

The spray foam you used to fill voids in around the box, it may or may not do a good job, but it doesn't look good at all. (please don't take this offensively) I am just giving my opinion.

If you fee you must use it, then when its cured.... use a utility knife and trim off the excess foam. You may leave just a little bit extra, and then use some sand paper and sand it smooth to match the contour of the interior to make them appear to flow together seamlessly, (you may need to use a sanding block in some areas, and or a firm foam pad/bare hands in other places).

As for the fiber glass work, make sure you clean the plastic pieces of the interior very good with some lacquer thinner, then sand it with some 80 grit to make sure the resin/mat sticks. Also I suggest sanding the MDF with 80 grit before applying resin/mat, it will bond much much better if its sanded. Once the resin has cured.... you have to sand it smooth enough so it looks nice, then you can glue your choice of material onto it.

When you do this, (if you have to use multiple pieces of material because of curves and bends in the area to be covered) make your seams are cut straight, and look nice and neat. They should be precisely the same on both sides and top & bottom of the area your working on. It's easiest if you get what they call 4 way stretch vinyl, and use a large enough piece to cover the entire area. This will most certainly require help from a friend or two, so it will stretch to match the contour of the area to be covered. When it comes to adhesive or glue, I suggest using 3M super trim adhesive, the 3M general purpose adhesive will start to come loose from plastic or other vinyl pieces when the sun warms it up.

I hope this helps you out, I just wanted to help you to have a good looking system as well as a good sounding system.

Your sage advice with no posts makes you come off as a total twat. Why did you feel the need to write a novel? Way off base, way out of line. Goto to Diyma if you want to be a know-it-all and insult people.

i know the wires and are a mess, but i ran two 0 gauge wire from alt to front batt and no fusing in between.

the wires inside the cabin are hidden the best i can.

all the wires for the batts, two runs of pos and neg for each, are grouped together the best i could get them. one thing i could have done differently for the back batts is use buss bars, but i had a lot of wire.

the noise i was getting from the speakers were from the headunit, Pioneers are dumb, do not disconnect or reconnect rca's when the car is running.. but i fixed the noise with a inline noise filter for $8.

I go the enclosure design from RAM.

he said i would be okay since i doubled all sides of the box.

i fiberglassed every corner on the box twice, using two sheets each corner and 1.5 gallons of resin.

i fb resin the baffle as well.

i didnt think to sand the mdf before resin. i thought the wood would absorb it pretty well., i did a test spot on some scrap mdf. it did absorb into the wood a good centimeter or 2.

i used some steel brackets inside and outside the box to hold everything together.

i was told not to use liquid nail vs fb resin.

but i do agree on using the angle iron, it would weigh a good amount but would help with bracing.

and the spray foam is messy (4-5 cans), last night i cleaned off most of the excess showing, i did this so i can brace the box with 2x4.

im not really worried about interior in the back area, since its sealed off and cannot be seen from the front part of the cabin.

i know i should re do the interior for the front of the wall. i will get to this asap, maybe this week.

i could also paint the port or something.

but i agree with Bear

[varietyguy]

First off I want to commend you on your dedication and ALL THE WORK YOU HAVE DONE! Cause you have done a lot of work to the vehicle.

Secondly, I don't want to come off as an @sshole or smart @ss, I just wanted to give some constructive criticism.

I know all your wires and such are covered, but many people will critically judge your install by how clean (or neat) the install is. Its a bit too late now, but on your next vehicle you should run one large power cable from the alt to the batteries (put the proper size fuse about 1 foot from the battery) also run the same size wire from the output of the alt to the Positive terminal on the battery.

Try and keep all the cables for multiple batteries grouped together as neatly as possible, then run power cable from there to a distribution block. Put the proper size fuse inline for each amp (unless the amp has the fuse built into it such as some of the ones your using). Keep your ground wires as short as possible and the same size as the power wires, this will help keep unwanted noise to a minimum.

Now I have never built a box inside the vehicle like you did, so I am a bit inexperienced in this area but will throw my 2 cents worth at you..... lol

I am concerned that the box is going to rattle itself apart after a while, considering the way the inside was put together. My idea to help hold it together good, it would be a substantial amount of weight added to the vehicle, but you might consider using 1" angle iron in all the corners of the box to hold it together. Just before you put it in, drill the proper sized holes about 3" apart down the length of the angle iron. Then use something that soaks into MDF/wood products very well. I like to used liquid nails in the seams, it is messy as hell but it seals the seams very well when when pushed in with your fingers, and it has exceptional strength. Use some drywall screws to hold the angle iron to the wood, make sure the angle iron is pushed tightly into the corner when putting in the screws. Also I would put the screws down one side, (making absolutely sure it seated in the corner good) and then go down the other side. This will make sure the box is squared up good, and the boards are pulled together nice and tight.

I have heard some people state that the fumes from the liquid nails will cause the surround to come loose from the basket or cone. I have personally never had this problem.

But just to be safe (if your really worried about it) let the liquid nails dry for a few days in 70 + degree weather before installing the woofers.

The spray foam you used to fill voids in around the box, it may or may not do a good job, but it doesn't look good at all. (please don't take this offensively) I am just giving my opinion.

If you fee you must use it, then when its cured.... use a utility knife and trim off the excess foam. You may leave just a little bit extra, and then use some sand paper and sand it smooth to match the contour of the interior to make them appear to flow together seamlessly, (you may need to use a sanding block in some areas, and or a firm foam pad/bare hands in other places).

As for the fiber glass work, make sure you clean the plastic pieces of the interior very good with some lacquer thinner, then sand it with some 80 grit to make sure the resin/mat sticks. Also I suggest sanding the MDF with 80 grit before applying resin/mat, it will bond much much better if its sanded. Once the resin has cured.... you have to sand it smooth enough so it looks nice, then you can glue your choice of material onto it.

When you do this, (if you have to use multiple pieces of material because of curves and bends in the area to be covered) make your seams are cut straight, and look nice and neat. They should be precisely the same on both sides and top & bottom of the area your working on. It's easiest if you get what they call 4 way stretch vinyl, and use a large enough piece to cover the entire area. This will most certainly require help from a friend or two, so it will stretch to match the contour of the area to be covered. When it comes to adhesive or glue, I suggest using 3M super trim adhesive, the 3M general purpose adhesive will start to come loose from plastic or other vinyl pieces when the sun warms it up.

I hope this helps you out, I just wanted to help you to have a good looking system as well as a good sounding system.

Your sage advice with no posts makes you come off as a total twat. Why did you feel the need to write a novel? Way off base, way out of line. Goto to Diyma if you want to be a know-it-all and insult people.

lol...

X2

As if you didn't notice this is an open build log with 14 pages worth of posts and comments. You stroll in on page 14 and try "fixing" all the mistakes in the build. You didn't ask any questions to see why something was done you just assumed and attacked. I don't run fusing in my installs, neither do a lot of people. Depending on what you are trying to acheive depends on certain ways you do your build. BFFLarry has a very loud and clean sounding car, and it's being built the way he wants it. Things he is not happy with he is fixing, and I guarantee you he knows what needs fixed. Not too many people can say they have a 150+ daily driver but this is one of those cars.

What upsets me most is you went into detail about install basics 101 (where to place your fusing, how to sand wood, etc.) This is not a walmart car audio forum. Most of us know what we are doing. Stick around long enough and you'll learn something too.

[BFF Larry]

Thank you Steven,

I'm tryin to fix the things that I think should help put out in the long run.

Btw, when are you gonna rebuild?

[varietyguy]

I'm doing it now

[Bigsix]

BRIAN MIZELL : Who the fuck are you? a total of 3 posts and you stroll in here like the best buy wanna be installer you probably are... if you want to write a novel, why dont you write a novel about the super bad ass 150db +, ultra clean, huge amount of fabrication, big power build you just finished? Whats that? you can't? Why not? 'Cause you dont have one? you even know what a 50 sounds like? Go back to DIYMA or RoE and act like a boss over there. Dont come up into someone else's house and shit on their floor, just makes you look like an asswipe, handing out "expert" advice thats at about the lowest level of car audio knowledge, and your twat ass doesnt have but 3 posts, and not a single pic showing you even have half a fucking clue.... Suck a dick dude. Now go blow out your back window with those Dual brand subs in the flashy black and chrome bandpass prefab with pulsating neons you just bought. Maybe you shoulda just put up a log of your amazing work before being such a douche.