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1999 Chevrolet Blazer - Stereo Integrity, Ground Zero, Soundstream


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I have seen three builds in person throwing almost 3x the power or more than the subs are rated for to hds, hdds, and shds. They all took it like champs

I just haven't come across them I guess... Everyone running tantric that I come across must not know how to set gains or something I guess idk.. Just saying from what I see, I think the sub is the problem. I hope I'm wrong though

Your wrong...They all smell until broken in..yes you were rude.. And passive aggressive is still bashing..

No they do not lol. They smell from the day you first get them playing, and keep smelling. 20k on 2 SHD's? seems too good to be true.
Then why don't mine?
Hoss aren't you on almost 1000 watts under rms power?

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First off: Love the build. Different and solid. I've had a few Tantrics do some work on my kidneys in a regular cab Chevy Colorado. Got way louder than they had the right to.

Something I read made me wonder though- did you say you set the gain with the vehicle off? If so, wouldn't the amp be seeing less voltage from your electrical (12.7ish vs 14ish)?

When I set my gains, I do it with the vehicle running (because that's when I'm listening to the system anyway) and I set it with a 0db / full wave. That way I KNOW that everything is clean. If all is well in sub and amp world, I may adjust up a tiny bit and check everything again.

Just a thought.

Well first thanks. Different is actually a main goal in the things I build.

I did set with the vehicle off. I did this to eliminate the possibility of clipping due to voltage drop. If I set at the higher voltage, then drop down while still trying to pull the same amount of power, boom, distortion.

What is hot? Have you used a temp gun?

Your running over 2,000 watts through that coil. A 1 percent inefficiency is 200 watts in heat. That's as hot as two 100 watt lightbulbs.

You could get to 150 degrees before you hurt the coil, and that is way too hot to touch by hand.

Maybe that is just how hot this insanely large speaker and motor runs.

I would get a temp gun and see if it just continues to climb in temperature as it plays or if it plateaus at a temp that is too hot to touch but not damaging to the speaker.

I just read this article- http://www.stereophile.com/reference/1106hot/

It says modern voice coils are typically built to withstand 390 degrees.

I bet it is just fine.

I haven't used a temp gun. So yes coils can get fairly hot, but how does that translate to dustcap temp? That's the indication I have, I don't have the ability to measure and monitor the coil temp. I met up with a dude yesterday to meter and he said as hot as mine was getting, his would get just a little hotter and he would smell coils (he's got Z's).

"Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand.

My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/

High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography

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Don't really want to drop the cash to make a C pillar work the way I wanted to, and not even sure it would be worth all the trouble, wouldn't be a hell of a lot bigger. Thinking of other setups. Four 12's would probably be about the same size as I have now, just a little smaller, but I would have to side fire. Not sure how that would work, but have talked to some that say it works well. Two 15's are damn near the same size box as 4 12's, but less cone area.

I dunno.

"Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand.

My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/

High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography

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When in doubt throw more power to it

-Matt

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I also wonder if the sub up firing so close to the roof is affecting it? This might sound stupid because I honestly have no clue, could there be sound waves bouncing back at the sub putting pressure on it causing it to have to work harder thus potentially creating more heat?

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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When in doubt throw more power to it

B-b-b-but I'm scared!

Seriously, wouldn't that compound the heat issues?

Heat goes up. A lot of the heat of the coil is trapped right beneath the dust cap. I would imagine in a woofer facing up configuration coil temp and dust cap temp would be pretty close.

If you were to go turn your stove on, I'm willing to bet you could hold your hand 2 inches above it (and the cap is farther away than that, but since it's not moving a whole lot it might even out), but not touch the metal. There's most likely a pretty big difference in heat there.

I also wonder if the sub up firing so close to the roof is affecting it? This might sound stupid because I honestly have no clue, could there be sound waves bouncing back at the sub putting pressure on it causing it to have to work harder thus potentially creating more heat?

Yeah, I actually mentioned that a few posts ago. Might be an issue for sure. No way to really tell though. Also possible it's fighting the port because it's close to the roof.

"Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand.

My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/

High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography

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Love it, damn that sub looks huge back there!

 

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