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"BOX RISE" is there a way to control it?????


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my guess is finding the free air rise will help prevent box rise ( if he is being serious about it ). considering that as freq change so does the box rise. you will never get rid of it but through builing testing and repeating you can find a way to use it to your advantage. im sure it would take a few dozen boxes to figure it out though.

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there is no fucking way to predict impedance rise, none zero nada got it i dont care what your friends brother sister cousin told you you cant predict it you cant control it got it? fanfuckintastic have a nice day

I don't think he wants to predict it.. He wants to know how to fight it

And the only two ways you can:

Drop nominal load and hope for the best

Or test and tune..

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there is no fucking way to predict impedance rise, none zero nada got it i dont care what your friends brother sister cousin told you you cant predict it you cant control it got it? fanfuckintastic have a nice day

You can't predict it? I'll have to disagree, modeling software predicts the impedance graph.

You can build your box so it has a lower impedance at the frequencies you want, just don't expect it to be around nominal ohm load throughout the whole frequency range.

As has been said before, bkolfo knows what he's talking about. The comment he made wasn't only a joke, it's also true.

And to the OP, don't worry about "box" rise, that is what saves your subwoofers ass and gives you the sound you want when you designed/modeled the box.

Thinking is the root of all problems...

You ALWAYS get what you pay for.

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there is no fucking way to predict impedance rise, none zero nada got it i dont care what your friends brother sister cousin told you you cant predict it you cant control it got it? fanfuckintastic have a nice day

You can't predict it? I'll have to disagree, modeling software predicts the impedance graph.

You can build your box so it has a lower impedance at the frequencies you want, just don't expect it to be around nominal ohm load throughout the whole frequency range.

As has been said before, bkolfo knows what he's talking about. The comment he made wasn't only a joke, it's also true.

And to the OP, don't worry about "box" rise, that is what saves your subwoofers ass and gives you the sound you want when you designed/modeled the box.

people here use torres to calculate boxes, so your talking above their heads. someone here mentioned box rise a couple weeks ago and now its the latest cool internet buzzword to use when you wanna look like you actually know some shit.

Owner of BigAss Ports

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1. actually find out what EACH freq rises to !! (smd im-sg etc) if you dont like it see step 2. if you like it keep it.

2. drop impedance(ohm load) even more and again find EACH rising freq again (CAUTION amp may NOT be stable at that load !), , if you like it keep it. have good electrical.

3. OR get a BIG amp so you wont have to worry about rise. again have good electrical !

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In all seriousness - I have posted on this at least 10 times.

A '1 ohm coil' is a nominal rating. At Fs, it is MUCH higher, but that does NOT mean it is not as loud at Fs. This is a confusion to a lot of people. And the spike peaks at Fs, but it is a sloped increase to Fs, not just that one frequency. Since most car drivers have a Fs around 30 Hz, there will be an increased impedance from 20-40 Hz (just an example).

A subwoofer system has peaks formed by several factors, but designing a daily box to try to shift these peaks or reduce them is really not a great idea.

How about an example based on this theroy many people seem to promote on smaller boxes with less port area have less "rise". So you make your box smaller and reduce the port size to 'combat rise'. Maybe you get 25% more power from the amp by shifting peaks around, which gives you MAYBE another 1 dB of output based on the power difference, but does not account for the loss of a smaller box. Wonder how much output was lost from building a smaller box and using a port that no longer operates correctly (and you have altered the frequency response if the box size changed significantly)?? You may peak louder at some frequency on a meter, but music performance will more than likely suffer overall.

Build the box based on the sub used and the desired frequency response and then power it accordingly.

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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