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Quality Power alternator


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Well my 99 Toyota Tacoma only has a 70amp stock alternator in it which is pretty small. I did the big three well four as I added an extra ground and also ran 4 gauge to my amp. Power at my amp before and after the upgrade increased by about 1 amp which is pretty good IMO. Were it would drop to 11.7 amps at idle with volume up and low bass hit to 12.7 at the lowest.

Well I figured it could do better with a new alt. So I did some research and found Quality Power for a pretty good price. They had listed a 140 amp for $270 that was a direct swap. So I did some more looking and found LCE engineering had a 140 amp alt also for $260. Found out that LCE is selling Quality powers alt. So I contacted quality power and asked them about it to see if they would sell it for less. They said no its 270 so its actually cheaper as LCE charges shipping were quality power does not.

So I ordered from quality power. Well I get my invoice and it says that its a 160amp alt not a 140. Not complaining cause more is better. I went back to quality powers website and the listing had changed and they offered the 160 for $285 but it wasn't on there when I ordered mine.

So I called them and asked what was going on. He told me that since I had told them about LCE engineering selling their alt for 260 that they would now offer a 160amp alt with a bigger case to let LCE sell the 140. SO long story short I paid for a 140 but they sent me a 160 for no extra charge.

I installed the alt and had a problem. With my stock alt I was getting 14.1 at the battery at idle but the quality power was only giving me 12.9

Its because the pulley is too big. When I would rev the engine it would go up to the 14.1 like its supposed to. I called quality power right then and told them what was going on and he agreed that I needed a smaller pulley. Said they would ship on out first thing Monday morning.

I think that's pretty good customer service. I did try to take my stock pulley off to swap it out but the shaft on the new alt is bigger and the pulley wouldn't fit.

Now I am hoping that I can put out enough power to run my new CT sounds 1400.1d amp going to my RE audio SEX10D4 sub. Right now Its only running off a kenwood 5001d 500RMS at 2ohm amp and with the stock alt it did make a noticeable draw on the charging system. I know its not getting 500, maybe getting 275-300. I think the new amp which is rated at 700RMS at 12.8V 2ohm load should run that sub nicely with room to grow with the amp.

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you bought a terrible alternator tbh

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x2. seems to be a regular issue with cheap alternators that all seem to have a higher turn-on speed, so the alt wont even be charging while you're sitting at a red light.

the pulley should not be a forethought for the company. they should know that the alt has a higher turn on speed (which larger alt cases usually solve that issue i believe..) and put the smaller pulley on before it left their store.

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you bought a terrible alternator tbh

We will see if that's true. The one thing that makes me think that its good is that its not a rebuilt its a brand new alt and its in a bigger case so I am sure it will put out more amps than a stock alt. I just didn't want to spend 450-500 bucks on an alt. Yes I am a bit cheap.

Only time will tell.

Just for my information can you tell me why you think they are bad? Experience or just what you have read or heard?

80prs

Arc Audio Xdi 1200.6 (using active crossovers) Freaking awesome amplifier

Incriminator IA 10.1

Focal PS 130v 5.25 (doors)

4" Faital pro Neo (kick panels) 

3" Faital pro Neo and focal tweets( dash)

DC Audio level 3 12"  custom box designed by joex built by me

AGM front, XS 750SE batteries rear

DC 180 alt

99 Toyota Tacoma extra cab

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/179476-my-small-build-turned-into-the-ongoing-build/

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because they fail prematurely. They dont have any idle output hence why you rest at 12.9. You shouldnt have to swap pulleys to make it work. When you do you lose out on your max output. So you've just robbed Peter to pay Paul. the regulators go out on them causing your electrical to spike and possibly kill your ecm or bcm. They just arent built to last like your typical car audio targeted alternators.

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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For just a little extra money you could have gotten a 200A+ alt from Mechman that specifically is tuned for high power at idle.

The alt you have is most likely not even turning on at idle which is common for hot rod type alternators for some reason.

Also, they probably just stuck a 160A rating on their 140A alternator and started charging more money. Put it on a test bench and I highly doubt you even get 140A.

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i had two ebay high output alts for my corolla. 160 amp and 90 amp. stock is 70. both shit. both didnt charge at idle. both charged lower than my 15 year old stock alt. both didn't hold voltage as steady as the stock one. both got heat soaked on a regular basis so the charging voltage was like 13.6 instead of 14.2 like the stock one was on a hot ass day.

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You get what you pay for. I have been running a Mechman for over 2 years and it has been worth every penny. This is one component in car audio you do not want to be cheap with.

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If they have to put "quality" or "excessive" or anything like that in their brand name. Chances are they are complete shit.

 

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