JNells Posted December 24, 2013 Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 I thought it was butyl, but then again sites have been known to bend the truth a bit. (Amazon and many other sites said it was butyl). I didn't want asphalt either!! I did share some of the same issues as cstroker, and I can see why people go with second skin over all the others. But for me, the FatMat was the most cost effective. Cstrokerv: Is there a noticable difference in performance between FatMat and second skin? Malibu Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aj11 Posted December 25, 2013 Report Share Posted December 25, 2013 I'm gonna see what kind of deals i can find on second skin. gotta see what my moneyis like cuz I'm about to order the ct sound 60.4 Amp for my mids and highs to match the ct 1400.1 jvc deck stinger 1800 front hc 2000 kinetic rear 2 runs of 1/0g big 3/4 ct 60.4 2 ct 1400.1 ct EXO 15 d1 lots of deadner type r comps front stage 6 kicker tweets rear stage lots of great stuff coming soon ho alt more bats ct comps for front stage more deadner sweet amp rack lots of L.E.D lights new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CstrokerV Posted December 25, 2013 Report Share Posted December 25, 2013 I thought it was butyl, but then again sites have been known to bend the truth a bit. (Amazon and many other sites said it was butyl). I didn't want asphalt either!! I did share some of the same issues as cstroker, and I can see why people go with second skin over all the others. But for me, the FatMat was the most cost effective. Cstrokerv: Is there a noticable difference in performance between FatMat and second skin? i think there is like if you tap on my roof and doors the roof is more solid i guess you would say then the doors with more coverage my build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/142505-small-build-log-4-dc-lvl3-10s-tl-update-link-to-rebuild/ http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/154258-rebuild-6-lvl3-12s-update-small-video-nothing-spectacular/ new build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188181-03-trailblazer-slow-build-8-dc-lvl3-12-m1-motor-m2-parts/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirill007 Posted December 26, 2013 Report Share Posted December 26, 2013 I'm gonna see what kind of deals i can find on second skin. gotta see what my moneyis like cuz I'm about to order the ct sound 60.4 Amp for my mids and highs to match the ct 1400.1 Just know that when you buy second skin/sounddeadenershowdown, you spend the same amount of money for the same(/better) performance eventhough it looks more expensive in the first place. And if you buy SDS, you also support a company that gives you proper info on how to it and helps you save money. Thinking is the root of all problems... You ALWAYS get what you pay for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reed Farrar Posted December 26, 2013 Report Share Posted December 26, 2013 reduces rattles, improves quality of ride from outside road noise, better midbass response of midrange speakers and bass. Cars without sound empty compared to cars with. Take the time to do the doors and do it right. Otherwise you'll be tearing down to do it later. i really like the way you did that. i can imagine it helps alot. what kind of material did you bolt to the door just sheet metal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notorious97200 Posted December 26, 2013 Report Share Posted December 26, 2013 secondskinaudio or sounddeadenershowdonw I would not use anything else. It's efficient and not too expensive. You only need a 25% coverage. OP : do the front doors first. If you have some left, use it in the trunk. black BMW X1 2.0 l 192 hp OEM head unit, Amplifiers : Audison AP 8.9 amp with integrated DSP and Ampere Audio 1200. Focal ES 100 K in front doors, and Dayton RS 180 for midbass under the front seats. 2 SSA DEMONS 10" subs, in a 2.6 ft3 ported box. SecondSkin Damplifier on front doors, and Luxury Liner Pro for the cargo area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vetkilr01 Posted December 26, 2013 Report Share Posted December 26, 2013 Raammat is having a sale now...http://www.raamaudio.com/ 10% offf, looks and weighs the same as damplifier. Don't know if it is similar or not, but probably what I am about to get, with the ensolite peel and stick foam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aj11 Posted December 26, 2013 Report Share Posted December 26, 2013 so go with second skin or sds, I'll see what i can find. i dont mind spending the couple extra bucks, especially since i know how much a good deadner can help jvc deck stinger 1800 front hc 2000 kinetic rear 2 runs of 1/0g big 3/4 ct 60.4 2 ct 1400.1 ct EXO 15 d1 lots of deadner type r comps front stage 6 kicker tweets rear stage lots of great stuff coming soon ho alt more bats ct comps for front stage more deadner sweet amp rack lots of L.E.D lights new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michigancapri92 Posted December 27, 2013 Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 Raammat is having a sale now...http://www.raamaudio.com/ 10% offf, looks and weighs the same as damplifier. Don't know if it is similar or not, but probably what I am about to get, with the ensolite peel and stick foam. "4 mil soft aluminum finish (softer aluminum to help prevent cuts while installing, hard aluminum like others use has been known to cause serious lacerations.)" from their website ... i would prefer the harder aluminum because it will work much better. Teamcapri.comThe TeamCapri 1992 Mercury Capri XR22012 FORD EDGE SQ BUILDOld build logMy FeedBack1992 Mercury capri XR2 Hyper LED Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNells Posted December 27, 2013 Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 secondskinaudio or sounddeadenershowdonw I would not use anything else. It's efficient and not too expensive. You only need a 25% coverage. OP : do the front doors first. If you have some left, use it in the trunk. Why would you do the front doors first if trying to dampen sub rattle? (Even if only from 8s). Just asking bc it would seem to me that the trunk lid and rear deck are the most obvious rattle zones from subs. Malibu Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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