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Why the all the huge ports?


MrBigs63'

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Posted

Guys this thread is basically just a question that I have came up with over the last few months on this forum. This question can probably be answered very simply. It is probably something that I am just missing.

Basically the question is just as it states in the title, why do I keep seeing all of these regular old slot ported boxes that have these freaking huge port areas? I know that some of the drivers being used in these boxes need a large amount of area due to the high wattage, high levels of excursion, and large box sizes, but I also know that the port can still be so large that the port velocity becomes too low and the woofer will not function properly. It's just like lately I have been seeing boxes with single 15s that are about 3 ft^3 that have a slot port that is like a 8"X22". It might just be a flaw in my noob box designing ability, but that just seems too large.

Someone please shed some light upon my stupidity.

Posted

people found something on the internet and are running with it.

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

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Posted

i thought you move more air if tuned low with a bigger port.....(what i read online lmao)

i think there real i was looking through that guys stuff he sells and it looks like he finds stuff at auctions and just sells it

Yea, it looks like someone got the mids about a month ago....shit. If I had a whole Hertz front stage my ears would jizz all over my cheeks.

/ LOL

My Low Budget Build:

Green 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon 147k- $1K

headunit- pioneer premier deh-p650-$25

4 Lead acid batts. 1 up front and 3 in back- vented outside.- $50

4 vvme L11 10"s <- $30 shipped a piece

6 cu. ft box (after displacment) tuned to 32ish hz with 10 inch sonotube. -about $50 all together maybe a lil more

2 aspm 1300 strapped

Selenium 6"s in the front doors on headunit power- for now -$20

quantum tweets in door-for now -$10

boston acoustic 5 1/4 in rear doors- for now-Free

big 3

1/0 and 4awg throughout.

roof sound deadened (not peel n seal ftw)-free

on 80 amp alt (bench tested to put out 100 amps faithfully) <--?-$10 for test

about $430 for everything<----Not bad at all

still gotta add 3 way crossover, amp for front and rear door speakers and maybe eq

Posted

I've been using larger than average ports for at least a decade. It's just math. With a given xmax and tuning frequency, you need a minimum port area in order to avoid noise.

Another thing that's happening is manufacturers are designing lower cost subs with higher excursion and because of that larger ports are needed in more instances.

We have to keep in mind that just because more people do something one way than another, that doesn't make that way the best or the correct way. If being the most popular determined whether something is best, then Alpine amps and JL subs would be the best amps and subs you could buy.

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aaresizehorizontal_zps47821bb2.jpg

Posted

I understand that with high xmax a larger port is needed, but 60in^2 per cube just seems a little ridiculous.

Posted

Sixty inches per cube may be ridiculous but port area and box volume have nothing to do with one another. Port area is derived from excursion and tuning frequency. Therefore, if you need 60in² of port, you need it whether it's a 2 cube box or a 5 cube box.

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aaresizehorizontal_zps47821bb2.jpg

Posted

It's could just be preference although I find when I go larger with port area frequency response is VERY peaky. I've actually never noticed low enough port velocity to increase turbulence or port noise and I've done some crazy port areas. But as I've gotten smarter I've learned less port area really helps with low frequency response and ability to pressurize a cabin. I used to think if I wanted time make a wind blowing ground pounder to stack the port but I've had better results staying on the conservative, especially when tuning low.

My current wall is 18.5^3 net with only 200^2 of port tuned to 29hz. If I could just GET my subs from AA I'll provide results

Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you?

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