Kyblack76 Posted February 23, 2014 Report Posted February 23, 2014 Ill never use those .... ever again. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold
bigmizzle99 Posted February 23, 2014 Report Posted February 23, 2014 Cut a spacer the same size as the cutout for the sub but make it about 1" or 2" wide. Cut it in half. Glue the two halves to the back side of the baffle. Presto, you now have a place to run screws into. This is what I do for every sub, I use 1/4" ply and the T nuts have never pulled out. Camaro SS Build Altima build 2.0 Altima build 1.0
JeepAndBassXJ Posted February 24, 2014 Author Report Posted February 24, 2014 So I redid all of them and glued them in with CA glue, and instead of using philips head bolts I switched to alien bolts with nylon washers. I think that will work better and I shouldn't need to be taking the subs out again, but I have said that before lol. YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/JeepAndBass Website: https://www.jeepandbass.com/ My Jeep: 157.3dB @26hz Drag Style 162.3dB @36Hz Outlaw 160.7db @35hz Headrest My Honda: 155.4dB Drag Style 158.0db Outlaw
SnowDrifter Posted February 24, 2014 Report Posted February 24, 2014 That would be awesome but I just realized that I have ~1/4" holes from the t-nuts in the box so no screws will thread into that. Rotate the sub a few degrees and drill new holes? ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444
DubNDodge Posted February 24, 2014 Report Posted February 24, 2014 That would be awesome but I just realized that I have ~1/4" holes from the t-nuts in the box so no screws will thread into that. Rotate the sub a few degrees and drill new holes?If you're not ocd lol '01 Dodge Stratass Sealed Trunk Build Log 2008 Honda Fit Sport Build Log On 10/3/2013 at 10:00 AM, ROLEXrifleman said: Anyone who says they knew everything they wanted out of life at 19 can go suck a bag of dicks cause they are lying to themselves or brought up in a cult.
79 cutty Posted February 24, 2014 Report Posted February 24, 2014 Have you thought of going the threaded insert route? I have found that those seem to work soo much better than T nuts because instead of mounting on the inside of the box they mount to the face of the box, and still give you the threaded option. Firm believer in letting my cars do my talking! You can't rush quality, it doesn't happen overnight. Quality takes time and dedication, but the end results more than pay for it. "Black Pearl" Build Thread http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/67183-1985-buick-regal-limited-build-log/page-1
XmaximuS Posted February 24, 2014 Report Posted February 24, 2014 Mine are glued in. Why are you putting so much screwing force in the bolt? This will push the nut out when it should be all the way seated in the wood... If you are using 1\4" bolts then the actual hole should be slight larger for the whole nut to fit inside... Screws snapped on me in the pass thats why i use t-nuts.. X MY BUILD LOG>>>> NAH I BETTER NOT..
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