Krakin Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 Post pictures of everything you do. Krakin's Home Dipole Project http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370 Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist? I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . . What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself but what has drawn your attention in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears, thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swordlordboy1234 Posted March 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 Will do. If you want to see pics of the enclosure you can check my build log. But I'm pretty sure it's the last issue I could have. I'll post up the pics tomorrow. Just wanted others opinions. I felt like it was a phase or wiring issue due to my testing with the DMM and the physical testing I did by pulling subs out. My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swordlordboy1234 Posted March 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zMVrw6EqcJ8 Found this... This is exactly what they are doing. I also have about 10 minutes of my own video showing the same thing from today. This guy didn't reveal the problem in the comments though. Would out of phase subs give the proper ohm load at the amp? My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacomaguy1 Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 Yes, but they wont really be loud at all You said tthey were hitting the higher frequencies fine? Do a pop test with a batt, quick and easy way to tell Team Flex Issues Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swordlordboy1234 Posted March 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 I was looking into doing that as well... It sounds pretty loud all higher frequencies. Voltage drop is about the same. Still deff above a 140. Not sure if out of phase 12's would be hitting that hard. And I still had sunroof flex... Just nowhere near as much. Like 1/4 of what I'm used to since the rebuild. Pop test sounds like a winner too. I can't sleep over this shit. Its not very encouraging that the same guys videos, 2 videos later he said the subs died.. Now I know there is a billion variables. I'm prob just panicking over nothing. Is it possible to have blown a single side of the coil and the other coil be fine on the same sub? But that would give me funky readings on my DMM at the amp and at the coils right? Those seemed fine, got 1ohm per woofer (2ohm per coil) and .5 at the amp. So far tomorrow's list is 1. Un mount both subs 2. Inspect box for a bizarre break for some reason causing a leak on 1 side 3. Pop test 4. Re both subs (I'm like 99% sure I wired it right but I guess its possible I wired a negative into a positive) 5. Swap sub locations (to see if issue stays on passenger side or follows sub) 6. Be sad if I can't fix for some reason. My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAYER1805 Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 I'm wondering if the polarity on one of the terminals of the sub is reversed. If that's been mentioned already my bad lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr8handogoatness Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 The only other thing I could think of is that one got too hot a few times and the insulation on the coils has melted a bit and is too thin. This happens a lot with electric motors, you will test with a DMM and all is well but when running they have problems. Then you have to get out a Meger and meg the coils to find the problem. What happens is that at low voltage the insulation is enough to keep from shorting the coil but at high voltage the degraded insulation will allow it to arch across and basically short the coil. With a shorted coil the resistance will change, causing the voltage drop across each coil to change. Essentially the coils are just a voltage divider circuit with all impedance being the same, the voltage drop across each is the same, but if one changes the whole circuit changes. Basically what I'm trying to say is that I think that when you put power on it and the voltage is up then the coils are acting different than with the small 9ish volts coming from the DMM and therefore they are playing different. In short I think one is "blown", not to the point that it doesn't work or you get coil rub or anything, just that the impedance changes differently than the rest. I hope that I'm wrong but that's what I think it is. I'm tired don't judge my lack of ability to put words together and express what I'm trying to say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popwarhomie Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 Have you checked the spider(s) on the subs. Could have ripped one. Im going to say one of the subs are damaged. 2010 Focus coupe- 8 12" wall. 157.5@46hz 2016 Focus ST - SQ build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassJunkie Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 Sounds like one coil on the sub is wired out of phase. This will cause a sub to not move and not be loud at all. Have seen it a million times. This may sound silly but have you tried playing it and looking at it from another angle while it was playing? One car I got a demo from this year i thought the drivers side sub wasnt working when looking from the passenger seat, when looking back from the drivers seat it looked as if the passenger sub wasnt working. Optical illusion. 1986 C20 Suburban 9 American Bass XFL 15's B2 M1MKII 14v XS Power Batteries Maxwell Caps Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not you havent lived until you've hit a screw with a router. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swordlordboy1234 Posted March 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 Sounds like one coil on the sub is wired out of phase. This will cause a sub to not move and not be loud at all. Have seen it a million times. This may sound silly but have you tried playing it and looking at it from another angle while it was playing? One car I got a demo from this year i thought the drivers side sub wasnt working when looking from the passenger seat, when looking back from the drivers seat it looked as if the passenger sub wasnt working. Optical illusion. i wish it was that simple. Ive actually put a single finger on the dust cap on low volume and got the difference in cone movement proof on camera. You can clearly see one hitting harder and moving more, making my finger tip move more... and the other almost none at all. I will be sure to check this as well. Going to eat breakfast now. And then I'm going to get lugs to re do the other side, then I'm going to take apart all wire connections and make sure i got them correct. My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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