rockFord_Expedition Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 This is specifically directed toward the Northstar Battery videos and claims by Purpl Syrup. If you are holding voltage above battery resting, then you arent even into the battery reserve and it isnt doing anything. This is not intended to bash any battery, this intended to get shed so light on so BS that has been going around lately. Ah, ok I see. I wish I would have caught that, I would have told him to disconnect the batteries while the car is running and system playing and see what his voltage is then. Would have shit himself when it didn't drop. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swordlordboy1234 Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 Don't the batteries have a surface storage though? Like when I first go full tilt my voltage will go between 14.4 and 13.6... But if I keep it there then I start dipping lower and faster... Like 14.4 to 13.1 or 12.9... Sure my alrernator is doing all of the work but doesn't the battery store some of that charge get stored into the battery? Hence why when you turn off your car it doesn't instantly drop to resting... It takes a little time to lose its charge. My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ahmed Johnson Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 I kind of figured that you weren't dipping into your batteries power until you reached around 12.5v but I was curious if my amplifiers would still get enough ampere's if my system dipped in the battery's power? Would the voltage drop affect my amplifier if the batteries can provide enough amps to feed it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 Thanks for the info CJ. Truly appreciate it. I have 10 XS power batteries in my Tahoe...how many are not needed, LMAO (not opening a debate, just thinking out loud, of course it depends on what my voltage drop is like, lol) 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ18 Posted April 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 Don't the batteries have a surface storage though? Like when I first go full tilt my voltage will go between 14.4 and 13.6... But if I keep it there then I start dipping lower and faster... Like 14.4 to 13.1 or 12.9... Sure my alrernator is doing all of the work but doesn't the battery store some of that charge get stored into the battery? Hence why when you turn off your car it doesn't instantly drop to resting... It takes a little time to lose its charge. I dont know all of the ins and outs of it, but yes it does have a surface charge that slowly drops back to its resting voltage once you shut the car off. If you have a 300A alt and are only dropping down to 13.7v though, you just havent maxed out the supply ability of the alternator. Someone with much more extensive electrical knowledge could shed more light on this than I can. Also to respond to another earlier post, batteries are still a very important part of the system. In no way am I saying that you should just disconnect your battery. What I am saying is that if you arent dropping down into the battery voltage, the battery isnt really doing much. NorthStar, XS Power, Kinetik, Stinger, Optima, etc. Once you get into the battery voltage, and it is able to maintain, that is where the battery shines. If you have a 10kw amp and only a 150a alt and can hold 12.6v full tilt, that is your batteries that are holding that voltage. THIS is when your batteries come into play in a big way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swordlordboy1234 Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 See now that post I 100% agree with. Let's hope one of the Tony's or someone pop in here. I just feel like in my system, 300a (ish) draw with a 200a alternator... If I had to describe my voltage I'd say the batteries are kinda like a topped off bucket. My batteries can help fill themselves below a certain level but above that they are just holding the extra storage for the alternator. This would explain why I can maintain 13.6 volts for about 10 seconds... And 13v for about 15 additional seconds (25sec so far) and below that (batteries rest at 12.9 in my car) the voltage drops much slower because the batteries are starting to input more work into the equation, because it will take over 2 minutes to go below 12.6. This example is also with my 200a alternator giving full output. But that's the best way I can think to explain it in my experience. My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Awhitewookie Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 I love it when i find a post like this and actually learn something MY BUILD 1998 Ford Explorer 2dr sport 1/0 Big 3 1/0 everything Alpine cda-9884 Crescendo CZ components (2) Crescendo bc2000's (2) Jolt 150ah (2) Yellow top optimas (1) Juicebox black cherry addition (1) Mechman 270 avbm miss my bc5500 and (4) 15's You know why people are ass holes online but not in person? Because getting punched in the mouth hurts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ18 Posted April 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 See now that post I 100% agree with. Let's hope one of the Tony's or someone pop in here. I just feel like in my system, 300a (ish) draw with a 200a alternator... If I had to describe my voltage I'd say the batteries are kinda like a topped off bucket. My batteries can help fill themselves below a certain level but above that they are just holding the extra storage for the alternator. This would explain why I can maintain 13.6 volts for about 10 seconds... And 13v for about 15 additional seconds (25sec so far) and below that (batteries rest at 12.9 in my car) the voltage drops much slower because the batteries are starting to input more work into the equation, because it will take over 2 minutes to go below 12.6. This example is also with my 200a alternator giving full output. But that's the best way I can think to explain it in my experience. You also have to consider and remember that music is dynamic. Its not a constant full tilt test tone. Let a 40hz tone rip for a full 30 seconds and then see how your voltage does. This is also kind of like the Amp Dyno. Testing in Certified and Un-Certified run a full tone for 15 seconds and is much harder on the battery bank. Then you test Dynamic and it is short burst(just like music). This is much less stressful on the electrical system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 Yup that's exactly why I got caps ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evermaxx Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 Interesting. Hopefully Tony can shed more info one this. Team Subsonic Lows Get your garbage EMF products of my amp bitch Man....it makes a nice work bench Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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