audiofanaticz Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 A simple notch made in the terminals could fix the problem, make it long enough to fit several amps, and at any point if they do loosen up they wont fall out, causing possible arching or shorting. Granted a user could easily drill them out a tad like I did as well. Take the set screw out the amp, insert the blocks, mark with a perm marker, remove blocks and drill. Something like this, would keep them from sliding out, and add that extra security. Dont mind the black from a different person that makes crap as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ18 Posted April 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Suggestion noted. I will look into what it would take to have this added. I am just on the sales side, machining is a whole different story. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingsuv Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 I do not believe you will see enough of a drastic difference between the 2 test in smaller amps. I don't see a 3k amp having more of a draw then what a smaller contact point would provide . This can be backed up by running smaller fuses then rated with o change in results. I do believe you will see noticeable results in larger amps say 5k and up. I would also like to see some thermal testing between the 2 if you really want to do a side by side test. Burst test are one thing, but last time I check, most of us don't listen to music 15 seconds at a time. Brian also makes a very valid point with pull out strengths. Eve though a properly setup system shouldn't have any strain on the power wire. But then again, shit happens Designing, building, and shipping boxes. Yahoo IM - kingsuv00If the listening level is too loud, please inform the driver, so he can promptly pull over, and let you out. not many cars can get me to pluggin my ears but this one.......damn. I mean the first minute is ok but that thing just really starts digging deeper and deeper in your earhole till you cant stand it no more. Seems like it does it with relative ease....16 12's on 8 amps.........gotta love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ18 Posted April 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Was there a drastic difference in this test with a 2k amp? No there was not at all. In total over the average of all 10 tests run with each method of input, there was a 55w difference. The video is slowly uploading now. I can go alot further into this if I have time later, but for now this is what I had time to do tonight. Point of this being, one is not better or worse than the other. Talking shit about a product just because you dont like it is all that is happening. The point of these inputs to to help make for cleaner and easier installs. Any added benefit on the performance side would be extra. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigManAC Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 I like the fact that each time you need to take your amp out for any reason you don't damage or put wear on your wire everytime. Simple enough and does what it supposed to, love that fact it makes everything look that much cleaner. 2001 Saturn L200-Sony MEX-BT4100PFRONT STAGE:- (4) Crescendo PWX 6- Cadence XA250.2SUB STAGE:-Fi Audio BL 15 (Sealed Off)-Crescendo BC2kELECTRICAL:- Singer 240A alt - XS Power D3400- SkyHigh OFC power/speaker wire- Big 3 with SkyHigh 0gaugeBuild Log: Click HereScores: 146.5db @ 29hz Outlaw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingsuv Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 My questions have NOTHING to do about whether I like a product or not. I was simply asking a question in regards to your claim of it being a better connection over straight wire. Me asking you to prove your claims isn't me being a hater. It just means I would like to be a better informed potential customer. Because if I go and sell your products, and MY customer asks why its better, My answer has to be better than "because CJ told me it was better" None of this was to pour sand into your vagina. Designing, building, and shipping boxes. Yahoo IM - kingsuv00If the listening level is too loud, please inform the driver, so he can promptly pull over, and let you out. not many cars can get me to pluggin my ears but this one.......damn. I mean the first minute is ok but that thing just really starts digging deeper and deeper in your earhole till you cant stand it no more. Seems like it does it with relative ease....16 12's on 8 amps.........gotta love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldsoundguy Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 I like the idea of the set screw or the slot cut in the end. I will have to check my connections just to see if they are loose. I have a 1/0 to 4 gauge adapter on the ground to my 125.4 amp and the dual 1/0 to my SQ 2200 80prs Arc Audio Xdi 1200.6 (using active crossovers) Freaking awesome amplifier Incriminator IA 10.1 Focal PS 130v 5.25 (doors) 4" Faital pro Neo (kick panels) 3" Faital pro Neo and focal tweets( dash) DC Audio level 3 12" custom box designed by joex built by me AGM front, XS 750SE batteries rear DC 180 alt 99 Toyota Tacoma extra cab http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/179476-my-small-build-turned-into-the-ongoing-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P4killer_ Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 N8 hit the nail on the head. Granted they are cleaner and look nice, but you are getting a reduction in surface area contact. Unless you can prove to me otherwise, it's nothing more then a sales gimmick. I'll take my "ghetto" wiring directly to an amp over a fancy sales tactic. I said the same thing for the longest time. I think it was CJ that posted vids of gains versus just bare wire etc. so the contact area isnt an issue like i thought it would be too. Setup: 2010 Hyundai Elantra Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000 Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of - DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepbass1 Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Definitely worth the cost. However, I would recommend against the shrink wrap over the tightening screw. I checked my screws monthly and found they could loosen up. Noelito, they fit perfectly. Not sure where you heard they are too big. I don't normally endorse shit for free, but here are a couple sets on my 3500. Wouldn't some loctite on the hex screws eliminate the issue of screw loosing up? and you could keep the heatshrink over the reducers and be worry free.... those reducer's look great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Personally I don't want to be putting loctite on any of this stuff. I also check connections every so often to make sure things are still snug and sometimes find that things have loosened up some, but nothing has ever fallen out on, not saying it can't happen though. Gain or no gain I don't compete for every tenth and what they cost is nothing to me so with all the amp swapping I do I like to use these things, I have a lot in my arsenal. I am not picking sides but for me, I do like and use these types of things. 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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