Running active information?

[evermaxx]

Thanks for the info man.

[Kyblack76]

Im in LOVE with the control of the prs in full network mode.

It is 3 way capable. Low, mid, high. - Sub, mids, tweets obviously.

Where you start your cut, and at what slope, is ENTIRELY based on gear, and install.

I cut my mids off at 80, and let them play up to around 2k.

The mid network is band pass capable. Meaning, you can cut the low and the high. Tweets take over at 2.5k and up.

The prs is a BIT tricky at first. But, once you get the networks, and the knob functions down, youll be set. I can adjust my cut and slope with out hardly even looking down now.. lol.

You can also set up 2 custom graphs for band adjusments.

I have one for my rock, metal, shit.... that has more mid, and low end to my mids, and then another for pure spl shit. I remove a bit from the doors, due to so much low end.

Then you can adjust the attenuation. Or, CUT the voltage down. Like on my nendo tweets. They are very very "bright". Harsh you could say. I took those down, independantly, and was able to "blend" them in like a mother fuck.. I love it.

Im in love with mine. I have probably as much seat time in fucking around with that thing, than i do build time. I cant get enough of fucking with it...... lol

I am extremly happy, and content with what i can get out of my doors. This saturday, im gonna try and bass rass a 129.9 on just my doors. .lol ....

And i have a very good ear, and attention to fine detail. And i think they sound pretty decent for PA junk.

The 1100 is a LOT of power for a comp set. Id be carful there. (see above for dropping the attenuation level"

Hell a couple of those new lil nendo amps (are they called something like the symphony line? or something?) would be more than enough, but, head room is awesome also.

I think your more than capable of "getting it". If you want and or love control,. active, is the ONLY way to go. But with that? comes the ability for fucking up. Know this. You mis a cut on those tweets with that power, they wont last a half a song. But, to me, its the only way to fly. If it sounds like shit, its ONLY my fault. Sounds tits? all on me baby. ... all on me.

[gckless]

80PRS has a lot of control, love mine. So to start, you'll need to know where to cross them. HPF for your mids is basically your preference and where they are capable. That I'm a frequency I'm sure you know by now. For your mid LPF/tweet HPF your going to want to get the Fs of your tweeter. Rule of thumb is do not have them playing at any sort of decent volume under double the Fs. For example, if Fs is 700Hz, then you don't want them playing under 1.4kHz, including the slope of your crossover. That example is for my tweeters, and I have them crossed at 2k. I'd probably go a little higher, but my mids start to break up much above 2.5kHz. Regardless, both are capable at the frequency I chose, including slopes, which you have to pay attention to.

For power, usually you are limited in volume by your mids. Tweeters will get loud as shit on as little as 10-20 watts. Those crossovers in most comps not only direct frequencies, but also power. You'd be surprised how little power it takes for tweeters to get to the same volume as mids. Generally of course. But anyway, I always tune for power by ear. IF I have extra room on my amp. Like right now I have way more amp power than either my mids or tweets can handle. So in this case, I wouldn't use an Oscope to max out my amp power, I have headroom, so tuning by ear (and nose lol) is the way to do it. Roll up the volume on music for the mid until it makes hints that it's near it's limits. I have smelled the coil on my mids a couple times. After you do that, match the tweeters. Subs are completely up to you.

In the end it's your system, so you should make it sound good to you.

[evermaxx]

Great guys thanks. Makes it easier to get now. Anyone with more info please post!

[White Lightning]

So I am a bit new to the whole active setup..

If you truely want to run active, each individual driver needs it's own channel.

So that means is you have 2 component sets, you will have a total of 8 independant drivers.

This means that you will need 2 of these.

a nendo 1100.4

Now with proper tuning and installation ... The drivers should be able to handle the power, give you plenty of headroom, AND should have no problems keeping up (if not overpowering) any sub stage you can put with it.

You may have to do some RCA splitting between the HU and amplifiers, but should be well worth the trouble when done ...

Personally, I do not see where you would need more than one pair of tweeters ... But that's just me.

Best of luck with your setup brother !!!

[Harley Anderson]

hi, quick question about active (not trying to jack the thread) will the amp play freuency up to about 20k hz or shut off at a certain frequency, if so what do i need to make it work? thanks looking at MB Quart OA400.4 and Polk db1001 if it helps. thanks in advance

[Swordlordboy1234]

You don't need to worry about that ^

Second, I support cable guys statement. I've need double mid, but a single tweeter (bad ass tweeter) is all most people need under 150db. Again, were talking expensive speakers run active on gobs of headroom tuned properly.

I also support that all info above is perfect, I'm envious of you 80prs guys. I had to switch polarities and stuff to "time allign" my stuff....

[MrSkippyJ]

Also 3rding the single tweeter. A single tweet kept up with 2 level 4 12s on 1500 watts just fine. I had 2 6.5s in each door and a single tweet. The tweets were actually backed down a bit to keep them balanced.

[White Lightning]

hi, quick question about active (not trying to jack the thread) will the amp play freuency up to about 20k hz or shut off at a certain frequency, if so what do i need to make it work? thanks looking at MB Quart OA400.4 and Polk db1001 if it helps. thanks in advance

Most "fullrange" amplifiers have no problems reproducing music from 20 htz to 20K htz. Its just that some can perform this task more dynamic than others. So choose your amplifiers wisely (do your homework) ...

Now to answer your question, it's not will the amplifiers play correctly up in those higher frequeincies ... Its finding adequate tweeters capable of performing this task up to your expectations. I went through SEVERAL sets to find the ones that worked for my application.

EDIT: Sorry I missed this ...

I'm envious of you 80prs guys. I had to switch polarities and stuff to "time allign" my stuff....

Even in full active systems, phase shifts need to be done to set everything up correctly.

Making sure that everything is "in phase" must be done BEFORE any time alignment adjustments are made.

[Rich Schenk]

I'm thinking of eventualy running active myself and this thread has been helpful