Tarball Posted March 11, 2016 Report Posted March 11, 2016 You could try the stock alt to begin with and go from there. Get a volt meter to install and see what it does. There is no way a stock alt +big 3 is going to keep up with what he is trying to run. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted March 11, 2016 Report Posted March 11, 2016 I know stock alt won't be enough but it will buy some time while he saves up for what's needed. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)
Copper07 Posted March 11, 2016 Author Report Posted March 11, 2016 Thanks for all the replies guys! I would say no less than the 270 hairpin from singer. The amps you will be running are inefficient, and will require to have that extra power on tap in order to perform at their best. But if you want to go with the bare minimum, add up the Fuse ratings of the amps, and add another 60amps, and that's how much alt you should have. Wait, why are they inefficient? I thought class D was most efficient? I mean, i know Power Acoustik isnt a great name, but it isnt bad. As for the stock alt comments, im running the 5 channel rn off the stock alt, only running the sub channel to two sa8v2s(which bang like crazy btw), and i read minimal voltage drop at idle, sitting in a parking lot, but I did notice that when I was driving at night, my lights dim ever so slightly, so i know once I put the speakers on the other four channels, and the other amp in, stock wont be enough. As for adding the fuse ratings together, they both have 2 40 amp fuses, so 160 total, plus 60, that gives me 220. Ill add another 20-30 to be on the safe side, so say 240-250 amps. So could I go with 250 hair pin, or the 275 normal? I dunno but he got 99 problems reading aint the only one. Terry Brocks', on 13 Oct 2011 - 1:38 PM, said: Quote of the SPL Creed ; back in the day my girlfriend gave me a choice between her and and my love for car audio, I told that bitch I've made harder decisions at the Coke machine.
reedal Posted March 11, 2016 Report Posted March 11, 2016 Class D is the most efficient in terms of class, but it's more than just the class that determines efficiency of the equipment. Like most budget amps, power acoustik is not known as a quality brand that does its power claims accurately. I'm sure that with more amperage on tap for those amps to pull they'll be more likely to put out RMS assuming voltage doesn't drop below the 14.4v rating that the amps were probably tested at. SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32
Copper07 Posted March 12, 2016 Author Report Posted March 12, 2016 Ok that makes sense, i agree with that, pretty much figured it when i bought them lol. What about the rest of my last question? I dunno but he got 99 problems reading aint the only one. Terry Brocks', on 13 Oct 2011 - 1:38 PM, said: Quote of the SPL Creed ; back in the day my girlfriend gave me a choice between her and and my love for car audio, I told that bitch I've made harder decisions at the Coke machine.
MrSkippyJ Posted March 12, 2016 Report Posted March 12, 2016 Hairpin F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69
reedal Posted March 12, 2016 Report Posted March 12, 2016 250 hairpin SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32
Copper07 Posted March 14, 2016 Author Report Posted March 14, 2016 Alright, thanks guys. Definitely going with either the 250, or 270 hairpin. Is there any advantage to powder coating it? Or is it just because it looks cool? lol I dunno but he got 99 problems reading aint the only one. Terry Brocks', on 13 Oct 2011 - 1:38 PM, said: Quote of the SPL Creed ; back in the day my girlfriend gave me a choice between her and and my love for car audio, I told that bitch I've made harder decisions at the Coke machine.
magillaru Posted March 14, 2016 Report Posted March 14, 2016 Get the 270.....it's a monster at idle. Powder coating can help protect it from the elements. Singer Alternators Team Asshole #anothershittysingerbuild
Kyblack76 Posted March 14, 2016 Report Posted March 14, 2016 Loved my 270 hair pin. Ran cases from 225 to 370. 3 and 6 phase. Conventional and hair pin. That 270 was a bad ass alt. Puked out 225 hot, idle all day errrryday. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold
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