zoeboi954 Posted August 22, 2017 Report Share Posted August 22, 2017 40 amps... sounds too small to put on a power wire.... 4 Fi Q 12s In A Prius on 4 Crescendo BC2000D?! That's Absurd (!!!UNDER CONSTRUCTION!!!) go follow http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/190658-the-first-prius-with-4-12s/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuriousFusion09 Posted August 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2017 3 minutes ago, zoeboi954 said: 40 amps... sounds too small to put on a power wire.... There was a 80 amp fuse but that's when it melted I rewired the power and put the 40 amp fuse on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8ten8 Posted August 22, 2017 Report Share Posted August 22, 2017 Pictures speak a thousand words. Post em up tomorrow, better idea of what's going on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3vil Posted August 22, 2017 Report Share Posted August 22, 2017 Simply based off the melted fuse/holder, and the possibly 8ga wire, I'm guessing you didnt have the electrical capabilities to support the current draw of the amp. Use larger wire for both the amp posistive and negative, make sure your fuse in and out are SOLID, and double check your ground to make sure its got a really good connection to some beefy metal of the frame/unibody. Probably should throw the big 3 in there while you're at it, just to cover your bases power wise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuriousFusion09 Posted August 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2017 9 hours ago, 3vil said: Simply based off the melted fuse/holder, and the possibly 8ga wire, I'm guessing you didnt have the electrical capabilities to support the current draw of the amp. Use larger wire for both the amp posistive and negative, make sure your fuse in and out are SOLID, and double check your ground to make sure its got a really good connection to some beefy metal of the frame/unibody. Probably should throw the big 3 in there while you're at it, just to cover your bases power wise. It is a 3000 watt amp so should I use a 2 gauge wire to get better power. It's a 4 gauge wire right now. And if I do that will it stop my interior light from flickering? It's the color changing lights that they started putting in the newer ford models. And the compass is all messed up and keeps saying error, telling me I'm goin north or it will say compass no response. That part i thought was maybe loose connections on the radio harness I went back and rewired all that and it still says the same stuff and lights still flicker. I hate wiring into factory stereos for this exact reason.. custom setups are easier but all the nav and stuff is hooked in to the radio so my car would throw error messages all the time. Sorry the the long response Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WalledSonic Posted August 22, 2017 Report Share Posted August 22, 2017 >BOSS AMP >not really 3000W >shat electrical Rewire with 1/0, do the Big 3 upgrade, and get yourself a better amplifier. I owned a Boss, so I can honestly say that it doesnt put out the RMS power. Mine lasted 2 days until it stopped working. No protection circuit. No internal components visibly burnt. Just stopped working. Chevy Sonic Wall (4) 15's on 10k Build Log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209412-2015-chevy-sonicwall4-15s10klithiumlarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/ (4) Fi SP4 15's | (2) Ampere 5Ks | Active! | Arc KS600.2 & KS125.2mini | CDT Silk Domes | Silver Flute 8s | 240Ah JY | US Alts Jeep Wrangler JK (4) 8's in a 4th Order Build Log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209841-shadow-2016-jeep-wrangler-jk4th-order4-8sdc-35klarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/ IG @walledsonic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77-AUDIO Posted August 22, 2017 Report Share Posted August 22, 2017 to wire into the factory system all you need is a good line out converter. I recommend the DB Drive HLC-4R. all you have to do is grab an audio signal and give it 12 volt and ground. once connected it creates a remote signal from the mix of the power and the audio connection you tapped into. I will never use another converter again unless they come out with one better. but doubt it. change out you line out converter and also get a better amp. usually on the boss amps you can drop the last digit and that will be you power. lol. get a good used amp from a member on here like a saz-1500d or a DC1.2k or even a DC2.0k. will not require the addition of another battery (is ice to have) but not needed with proper wiring and the big 3 upgrade. as for the light flickering well thats going to happen when you have a current draw. (aka amp and subs) unless you have additional batteries to support the voltage drop. 1. Don't be afraid to ask a question or for help. 2. Get better converter 3. Get better amp 4. Get better wiring. I started off with a kicker 300.1 and 2 kicker svc 12s several months later i realized that they are ok but damn my re audio, DC and Sundown were a lot better. spend the time to invest in quality products and you will not only be happy but realize that the cheap shit is just that cheap shit. and dont let what happened to some guy at texas showdown happen to him rushed the job got shitty equipment and shitty install and burned his car down to the ground while waiting in line to get in. "from what I heard about the equipment and such) I didnt see it the install but did see the car blazing. PPI dbl dinDC Level 31.77cubes net tuned to 33htz.DC audio 2.0kCT Pro Audio 8" in front, 6.5 in rear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuriousFusion09 Posted August 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2017 6 hours ago, WalledSonic said: >BOSS AMP >not really 3000W >shat electrical Rewire with 1/0, do the Big 3 upgrade, and get yourself a better amplifier. I owned a Boss, so I can honestly say that it doesnt put out the RMS power. Mine lasted 2 days until it stopped working. No protection circuit. No internal components visibly burnt. Just stopped working. 6 hours ago, 77-AUDIO said: to wire into the factory system all you need is a good line out converter. I recommend the DB Drive HLC-4R. all you have to do is grab an audio signal and give it 12 volt and ground. once connected it creates a remote signal from the mix of the power and the audio connection you tapped into. I will never use another converter again unless they come out with one better. but doubt it. change out you line out converter and also get a better amp. usually on the boss amps you can drop the last digit and that will be you power. lol. get a good used amp from a member on here like a saz-1500d or a DC1.2k or even a DC2.0k. will not require the addition of another battery (is ice to have) but not needed with proper wiring and the big 3 upgrade. as for the light flickering well thats going to happen when you have a current draw. (aka amp and subs) unless you have additional batteries to support the voltage drop. 1. Don't be afraid to ask a question or for help. 2. Get better converter 3. Get better amp 4. Get better wiring. I started off with a kicker 300.1 and 2 kicker svc 12s several months later i realized that they are ok but damn my re audio, DC and Sundown were a lot better. spend the time to invest in quality products and you will not only be happy but realize that the cheap shit is just that cheap shit. and dont let what happened to some guy at texas showdown happen to him rushed the job got shitty equipment and shitty install and burned his car down to the ground while waiting in line to get in. "from what I heard about the equipment and such) I didnt see it the install but did see the car blazing. Ok I went back through everything. I have a Pac loc 7 for my converter. The amp is working and actually goes into protection mode once I really turn the bass knob up. I have 2 12 p3d4 rockford fosgate subs. I blew my radio fuse just a lil while ago from turn the loc volts up too much. And with my lights, they are coming on and off and only the blue light makes my system work. It's the led lights that light up the floor boards not my dome lights. They don't flicker at all. And amp wise would a rockford fosgate amp be a good choice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 I would not buy another thing until you fix your install. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuriousFusion09 Posted August 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 3 hours ago, ShadeTreeMechanic said: I would not buy another thing until you fix your install. I got everything squared away except my ambient lighting is not working (might have to replace a fuse maybe) and the compass navigation feature isn't working Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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