cc_audio Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 When its cold you need to shake the can longer, much longer. We have more than ten cans of great stuff on the shelf right now. Cold weather is really hard on the stuff. Never had a problem with it drying in the cold, its more the problem of having a cold can. Before you use great stuff keep it in your house or in a well heated garage for a while. Otherwise you have to shake for, no joke, five minutes or more. The reason it didn't set up in those few spots is you didn't shake it long enough. It will harden, but it will take a significantly longer amount of time. But it is GREAT STUFF!!! As seen on TV! It's all gone! The Celica Build Feedback If I buy something from you, DO NOT USE FEDEX! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team-Atomic-Andrew Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 i used that stuff, be careful you dont foam anything imporant i accidentally foamed my spare tire lowering mech, BAD IDEA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 heat gun maybe your friend. be careful with it and go slow. it can cause bulges if it has no where to go. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30Hz.wav Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 Just shut the doors, blast the heater for a lil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehoe92 Posted November 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 more of that shit leaked this morning thank god it dries once it leaks so I can just peal it right off the plastic. it sucks because it won't dry behind the duct tape but once it gets exposed it dries instantly so I tried getting air to some of the wet stuff but then it ends up expanding and leaking out :censored: I need to start over and do it right... put it in some warm water then shake it forever then do it during the day Wouldnt be thehoe92 without teh purple Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enemyofsilence Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 good luck starting over man. i hated removing this when i would mess up. its so hard to remove and not fun. i would suggest to use like a hair dryer or a heat gun just so that you dont have to deal with removing it. i mean its already there, it just needs to harden and dry.. Team Bass-Hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehoe92 Posted November 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 I'll leave whats there since right now its just like a half inch layer covering the hole with nothing behind it and then just fill it all in behind it Wouldnt be thehoe92 without teh purple Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracker Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 hmm ive never had a prob and im in MN too lol but havent workied ouside with it since it got cooler out. id say maybe toss some platic down on your seats and leave your truck rnning with the heater/defroster on to get the temp up. leave the windows just cracked for ventalation. not sure if it will help but maybe try replacing some of the duct tape with masking tape..? mabey since its a lil thinner it might help dry that up a bit. shit should dry up though with a lil more heat. let it get nice n warm with it running though see what happens. March 2010 SOTM winner my old buildhttp://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/50219-dank-aka-crackers-bonne-new-v2-build-in-the-works-hahahaaaaaa/page__hl__crackers my youtube page - http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=jackiedan04#g/u my feedback - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/56540-official-cracker-feedback/ i need tacos and bass to live!!!!! and will NEVER change hahaaaa TEAM NOIZE VIOLATION Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wL<3bass Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 heat gun maybe your friend. be careful with it and go slow. it can cause bulges if it has no where to go. Also be careful not to burn you paint either....I used a different kind of expanding foam its a non warping kind....its not as rigid but it better than having a bulged warped roof.... This is what I used... I was gonna try this but I didn't want bulges and warped sheetmetal Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBurt09 Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 Also be careful not to burn you paint either....I used a different kind of expanding foam its a non warping kind....its not as rigid but it better than having a bulged warped roof....This is what I used... I was gonna try this but I didn't want bulges and warped sheetmetal Where did you get that foam at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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