Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

When its cold you need to shake the can longer, much longer. We have more than ten cans of great stuff on the shelf right now. Cold weather is really hard on the stuff. Never had a problem with it drying in the cold, its more the problem of having a cold can. Before you use great stuff keep it in your house or in a well heated garage for a while. Otherwise you have to shake for, no joke, five minutes or more. The reason it didn't set up in those few spots is you didn't shake it long enough. It will harden, but it will take a significantly longer amount of time. But it is GREAT STUFF!!! As seen on TV!

It's all gone!

The Celica Build

Feedback

If I buy something from you, DO NOT USE FEDEX!

Posted

heat gun maybe your friend. be careful with it and go slow. it can cause bulges if it has no where to go.

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

Posted

more of that shit leaked this morning thank god it dries once it leaks so I can just peal it right off the plastic.

it sucks because it won't dry behind the duct tape but once it gets exposed it dries instantly so I tried getting air to some of the wet stuff but then it ends up expanding and leaking out :censored:

I need to start over and do it right... put it in some warm water then shake it forever then do it during the day :good:

Wouldnt be thehoe92 without teh purple

Posted

good luck starting over man. i hated removing this when i would mess up. its so hard to remove and not fun. i would suggest to use like a hair dryer or a heat gun just so that you dont have to deal with removing it. i mean its already there, it just needs to harden and dry..

Team Bass-Hz

Posted

I'll leave whats there since right now its just like a half inch layer covering the hole with nothing behind it and then just fill it all in behind it

Wouldnt be thehoe92 without teh purple

Posted

hmm ive never had a prob and im in MN too lol but havent workied ouside with it since it got cooler out. id say maybe toss some platic down on your seats and leave your truck rnning with the heater/defroster on to get the temp up. leave the windows just cracked for ventalation. not sure if it will help but maybe try replacing some of the duct tape with masking tape..? mabey since its a lil thinner it might help dry that up a bit. shit should dry up though with a lil more heat. let it get nice n warm with it running though see what happens.

Posted
heat gun maybe your friend. be careful with it and go slow. it can cause bulges if it has no where to go.

Also be careful not to burn you paint either....I used a different kind of expanding foam its a non warping kind....its not as rigid but it better than having a bulged warped roof....

This is what I used...

102308_front200.jpg

I was gonna try this but I didn't want bulges and warped sheetmetal

175828_front200.jpg

Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4

Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2"

Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd

Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400

Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v

Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube)

Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod

Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors)

Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded

Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex

My YouTube Videos

My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build

My "Seamless" Looking Box Build

My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk

My feedback/references...

Posted
Also be careful not to burn you paint either....I used a different kind of expanding foam its a non warping kind....its not as rigid but it better than having a bulged warped roof....

This is what I used...

102308_front200.jpg

I was gonna try this but I didn't want bulges and warped sheetmetal

175828_front200.jpg

Where did you get that foam at?

Posted

I think it need to have some contact with the air to dry.

i tried to make a mold with the foam before. but the inside of the mold never dried. it always ended up a big wet bubble. Ive also heard of it happening when i guy tried to level out part the rear cab of his truck. He layed a board down and sprayed the foam under it. and it never dried untill he took the board off.

It might be somethin to do with humidity though(corresponding to needing to contact air). The can should say somethin about it works better in moist air or somethin. It says misting it with water will help to cure better.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 488 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...