RockeyDA Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 So this was my first time trying to build a box for my sub, i used a online calculator for the port, but i screwed up the box a bit, i did not subtract the thickness off the wood so my box has less volume than desired, and my port tuning is higher than desired. on top of that i had to change how the box was built bexase my wood was only 24" long ways and i needed a 26" side. so im gonna keep dumpster diving for wood and when i get enough of the same im gonna go for it again. My gole: hit as loud and as low as i can (if i can slam that low 0:49 or so in on Big Kurt - My Sub ile be happy) amazon recommend 5-7'^3 for my sundown X18 and im assuming bigger means louder to i tried to aim for 7 @ 28hz but got 4.9 @ 33hz. here is a pick of my first box Im gonna build a better box but not be concerned weather the next one will fit in the car. ok now your filled in, here comes the advice part. i have really limited access to tools. at my disposal i have a 40 year old craftsman jigsaw that cant cut threw wood this thick, a dremel with quite a few bits, one of those switch blade saws for cutting down small trees, and i can go to my great ants house and use her table saw, but its like 50 years old and really small, so i cant use the guides because the wood is to long and i cant cut at angles. oh and if i go to her place she has fancy new jig saw that can cut thick wood. so with the tools i can use, any advice on getting low loud power? and is using larger recommend size better or should i shoot for 6'^3? and for the volume of the box do i need to worry about the space the port takes up or the woofer takes up? and incase it helps, a vid i made on the sound of my box . along with this showing my response at least in my house. Current Subs: 2 Alpine SWR-1522D's, Sundown X-18 Current Amps: SAE-1500D on 100A 14.4v psu, Technics SA-560,Some Sony, Some Pioneer - crackles if on to long Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 What's the vehicle and amp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 maybe you could add a little length to the port to tune lower? find an online box calculator and run the numbers to see what volume will give a peaked response. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockeyDA Posted January 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 What's the vehicle and amp? not impotent considering i dont own a car and dont even know how to drive, i just occasionally throw some subs in my dads car. i dont see how the amp maters but its a Plye P3001AT and its just to hold me over till i can get a sundown amp and a couple 14.4v 75 amp powersupplys. (im barley makin rent here so temporary is like 6-8 months.) oh and the car amp that will almost never be used is some pioneer amp rated for 380wrms over 2 2ohm channels i got for 7$ maybe you could add a little length to the port to tune lower? find an online box calculator and run the numbers to see what volume will give a peaked response. 1. i dont think i can get this box open without destroying it 2. wouldn't my box being so small give me less power? and there is box calculators? i though best bet was go for maximum recommend cubic feet? Current Subs: 2 Alpine SWR-1522D's, Sundown X-18 Current Amps: SAE-1500D on 100A 14.4v psu, Technics SA-560,Some Sony, Some Pioneer - crackles if on to long Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Todd Zier Posted January 13, 2016 Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 the environment you put the box in (vehicle ?) is just as important as the box itself. even the right size box wont work in some trunks or back seats. home depot will cut sheets of wood for you have your box drawn out with a cut sheet Zierbox 34 years of Car Audio World Championships World Records Demo Vehicles Magazines Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted January 13, 2016 Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 I used one from dbdynamixaudio.com and it gives cut sheets and diagrams. Its free just plug in your numbers. They have calculators for all different kind of boxes. I have a pair of Soundcubed HDS315 subs and built a pair of slot ported boxes for them. See my box build "HDS315 slot port box build". Maybe you can get to the port from the woofer hole? Or make some kind of extension on the outside of the box just for something to try. I know with my woofers the way it worked out, with a high Q and low VAS, the bigger box volume was more peaky in response than a smaller box. Your results might be different. Generally the bigger the box, the shorter the port needs to be for a given frequency. Maybe you could build an "addition" onto your box to get more room? As long as it were sealed, it could be any shape at all. This way you could find out what works and when you arrive at your ideal volume, then build it right. Kind of like an R&D project. Figuring it all out. This is the fun part. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted January 13, 2016 Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 Ported boxes have a greater peak output around tuning the larger they are due to being more efficient, but don't have as much output in other frequencies. Smaller boxes are less efficient, and will give a flatter response starting at tuning and ascending. Yes, the amount of space the port and woofer take up are displacements. Gross volume is a cube with nothing in it. Net volume is volume after displacements. You want net volume to meet manufacturers specs (if those are the specs you're shooting for). There are box calculators, which will do the math of port tuning, volume (gross and net), and give you cut sheets. All you do is plug in your dimensions, what you want it tuned to, whether you're doing a slot port or aero port (slot in your case), etc... You want low loud power, so how low? What music are you listening to? I'm currently tuned to 28hz and have played songs down to 23hz without issue, not as loud, but no problems with the sub unloading at least. As I said, the larger the enclosure, the more efficient (louder) is it around tuning but much less efficient at other frequencies, and the smaller enclosure is less efficient, but gives you a wider frequency response with similar output. SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted January 13, 2016 Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 Quick question: What program are you showing your response on? I have not used anything like that yet. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted January 13, 2016 Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 not impotent considering i dont own a car and dont even know how to drive, i just occasionally throw some subs in my dads car. i dont see how the amp maters but its a Plye P3001AT and its just to hold me over till i can get a sundown amp and a couple 14.4v 75 amp powersupplys. (im barley makin rent here so temporary is like 6-8 months.) oh and the car amp that will almost never be used is some pioneer amp rated for 380wrms over 2 2ohm channels i got for 7$ Don't waste your money on a car audio amp and DC power supplies if you are going to use the sub indoors. Just buy an amp meant to plug into the wall directly. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh G. Rection Posted January 13, 2016 Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 Quick question: What program are you showing your response on? I have not used anything like that yet. Looks to me like its audacity Owner of BigAss Ports Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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