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As all of you know the original SMD Tool Map was no longer being update by the OP. I went ahead and transferred all the data from his map and copied them to a new map. The new map is on a different server because it is 100% free. We can also add a logo to the top right corner of the Map. I didn't want to add the SMD logo without permission from someone. The new map can be found here: SMD Tool Map If you have a tool that you would like added to this list either PM me or add it to this post and I will add them to the list. I am on here at least once per day sometimes more. I do not feel I own this list, If someone has a better mapping site or would like to take it over just let me know. I will send you the Excel file of all the information. Thanks Dan

I got tired of listening to my sheet metal door skins rattle like a tin can while driving the RZR....so i did something about it today.

i got deadner laying around from your past 2 sales 30% off.. i might need some overkill pro

Log will be done tomorrow excluding a rack for some components. But subwoofer, box, wires ran and videos uploaded. Just doing some last minute stuff

kevin Is correct, and to get even more detailed none of the motors through the level 6 series are the same, the M1 / M2 / M3 all had there own motor design. The m3 version is larger than the m2. The m3Lv6 has been out for around a year in a 18" size only. This new frame will allow a 15" version of the Current M3 level 6

hell no. Too many fasteners. I hated putting them all on. It only took one small piece to make a big difference so i already put more on it than i had to

It's VERY important these wires be detachable...in case you have to take the cluster out for service. you do NOT want to have to cut it all out later. If i had to do this all over again, and i might for some other vehicle, i will use a molex connector with plenty of pins to do the job. You guys have seen me do that in the past and normally i would. But this was short notice and i am out of one large enough to handle it all. This works fine video coming soon! working on it now!

The LED's are wired up, there will be a video on how the Mercury switch works soon. If you want to see a 15 second instagram clip, visit my channel @ www.instagram.com/meade916 it's just a few days ago. After i post these pics i will work on the latest video. Today's work.... I was trying to find an easy spot to put his SMD VM-1 and SMD TM-1 by the dash not really knowing what we were going to do. I didn't want to do anything fancy because i think he want's to do an Ipad mini eventually in the dash. So before i pull the trigger and fabricate something, i want to make sure he know's what he wan'ts so we don't do the work twice. Then i realized....there is 2 prime spots right in front of our face! I will let the pics do the talking. So i just started pulling it apart, to see what kind of room i had. To my surprise, there is ENOUGH! Ok before you ask why one hole was cut with a hole saw and the other was cut with my air tool......it is because the hole saw would have cut into the top of the factory temperature gauge numbers (dashes) a little bit. It would have shown. So i had to do a circle with a flat spot on the bottom so that would not happen. The hole is a LOT more rough but it doesn't really matter as it gets covered by the new gauge. I just thought i would explain that. As you will see i am capable of a clean hole i was just out of options for the VM-1 spot.

major difference wow