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Experimenting with some idea's that i have had for almost 15 years and i think i am on to something cool. I actually did this years ago but didn't have any way to make the housings (for the magnets) and i didn't want to make them out of wood. Now that i own a CNC, the sky (and my imagination) is the limit. What you are about to see is subject to small changes as well as some big changes as i make a few different versions of this in the coming month. I plan to have these ready mid August. If you have a box you would like to take out every day, this will work great! Before you say anything, just know i have already tested this up to 1600watts and there is NO difference with this terminal vs. a direct wire connection. I was very pleased. I suspect i can take it MUCH further than that and i will test it (and prove it with the AD-1). Please remember this also, this is a prototype! I am going to make it nicer before it sells...i will also offer it with 12ga AND 8ga OFC cable. This way you can save a little bit and not everyone needs 8ga. Also, before you say it, i plan on making the AMPLIFIER side neo-magnets countersunk and the speaker terminal side will stick out some. this way you don't run the risk of the wrong side sticking to the side of your car with the amp on. I already have the drawing fixed i am just waiting on materials. These products are made from raw flatstock and hardware at SMD HQ.

Sounds like, you have a amplifier, and .5 is your only option, and you're not sure if it's safe to run in your vehicle. If this is true, my suggestion would be to run at .5, and leave the gain down on the amp. The gain on the amp, is only to match the level of the signal coming from your radio, so it's not necessarily a volume knob, it's more of having a clean signal from the radio, and for the amp, to receive that same clean signal, without any outsource input between these two points. I hope this answers your question, and if it doesn't, than let us know! What I would suggest, is to run it at .4. Turn the radio to full max listening volume, I typically advise 10 to 15 percent below the max number on the radio. Now, go back to the amp at .5, and turn it up until either, your voltage can't hold the load, or the sub is taking too much power. This would invole you having to listen to the sub, and gracefully determine what is the safe zone, depending on your listening style and music type. Also, please bare mind that, the enclosure will have more input on how the sub takes the power, more than whatever ohm load you decide to run. So if you have a 15 that is rated at 3k, and you want to put 6k on it. Than a box at 2 cubes prob would handle the power better than if it's a 6 cube box. BUT, just because it takes the power, doesn't mean it's doing it efficiently. Essentially you're suffocated the speaker so that the suspension is tighter, therefore allowing more power to be applied. In a large box, the enclosure doesn't support the suspension as much, therefore, it could get just as loud with much less power. BUT, if you add too much power in a too large box, then you will have speaker failure. So it's a lot to know, and there is no right answer to your question.

Watch them in action to get a better idea!

Internal combustion engines rely on a peak in the power band for maximum torque. Electric motors have 100% torque available at any rpm. Lithium batteries and brushless motors. Nitro motors are messy. You can't help but get unburnt fuel from out the pipe and dust combined in a layer over everything. Nitro motors are very finicky and require constant tuning and maintenance. Nitro motors are loud and piss people off. (this one goes both ways {like bola} nitro motors are cool because they are loud) Nitro fuel is $35 a gallon. Glow plugs need replacing often.

Because electrics have advanced so much that the benefits that gas ones used to have over them are gone. Plus they are a lot easier to maintain as well.

i think i am just going to lock this because i am not really feeling like any drama. Whoever see's it, see's it. I just wanted to point out that people with less going on than me don't interact at all with their friends and followers online. Sometimes i feel like i should be that way too because of the things that are said which makes me say the things i say. Don't start no shit won't be no shit is what it comes down to.

Lots to comment on... I've always said in the past the dd-1 is used to align the gain to the average loudness of the music you play. Yes 0dB is the safest setting but only tones are that loud so you are missing out on a bit of power using 0dB. If you find your sub RCAS do not distort with sub level flat/zero... check the front/rear for distortion and use that volume number, then if at that number the sub RCAs don't clip you can raise the sub level until it does. Hope that makes sense. After using the dd-1, an equalizer should be used to attenuate or turn down whats too loud, you shouldnt really need to boost it at all more than a few clicks and that EQ setting will change depending on the song/genre you are playing since every song is recorded at different levels. Its all about setting the gain to the average loudness of the music you play most. I've used -5dB@40hz for my sub amps and any others I've set except for one individual who doesn't not listen to any of my music. A random average of 50 songs I've edited came out with a loudness of -4.6dB and I used to offer that tone to set gains with, so using -5dB@40hz is perfect. Reality is that everyone clips a little and we don't notice because 1) distortion below 40hz is extremely hard to detect by ear (need upwards of 20-40%clipped signal to detect) and 2) clipping, unless excessive, just equals a bit more power going to the sub. My set volume on my headunit I use is 37 and I go from 35 to 38 depending on the song since they are all recorded/boosted to slightly different levels, one should not think every song can be ran at the magical distortion free number when the gain was set with a distortion free tone. A proactive volume finger is key to keeping things cool and making equipment last. Moral of the story is you must get to know your systems limits and I always suggest checking a song through WMP Oscope/equivalent to ensure its not horribly squared off waves before it enters our car stereo.

How do you guys arrive at these numbers? Generally, people suggest running 100aH for every 1000W but this chart seems to be very different. Take my setup for example. I have 4X D2700s and 2X D3400s (1 as primary) which should put me at about 5,500W but if I use your chart it says that I'm good for 24,500W. I honestly don't even think I could burp 24KWs without the amps going into protect in a very short time b/c of low voltage. I'm not bashing, just trying to understand.