kirill007

Caps store a (electrical) charge. Batteries don't produce electricity (except the first time it's made), they only convert the electrical energy into a chemical reaction that is reversible when a load is attached to the terminals. This is why caps are so much faster, they don't have to undergo a (slow) chemical reaction. Recap... For our voltages: Energy = 0.5 x C x (Vmax^2 - Vmax x Vout) 0.5*433*(15²-15*10)=16237.5Ws which is still pretty good. And heat is quite the enemy of capacitors, so mounting them in the engine bay won't do them good.

I like this company for it's honesty.(and good products)

It's not that difficult to turn it over. 900amps= 900*15V=+- 13.5kW, about 15kW if you count in efficiency. 15kW=20.1Hp, it's only about 11.2HP at idle. Just rev up the engine a little bit and youll be fine. A BMW 320i already has 30+ HP at 1.5k rpm.

Finally an alternator that can power my headunit properly.

100% coverage is necessary for it to be effecitive, it's a noise barrier. You can use high strength velcro to hang it inside your door or behind the panel.

That is a side effect, not the goal of a deadener. If you want to know how to soundproof a car, this is the best site (at the moment): http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/content/welcome-sound-deadener-showdown

NO, that is not what a Sound deadener is supposed to do, it's supposed to provide some structural strength to the panel and absorb vibrations instead of lowering the resonant frequency.

Not to be a dick but if you have never been able to look on a board and see something blown or burnt then you obviously haven't worked on many things. I'm kinda leaning that way already. Was just trying to avoid paying out the ass for shipping. Been wanting to run all RF amps, I guess it's time to save up... Not to be a dick, but in most cases you can't see if anything is wrong with it. Just because sometimes you can see it, doesn't mean that a lot of other things aren't dead because there is no visible damage.

For the people that find the thread tl;dr. Amp doesn't work properly, sundown quickly send him a new amp and it had a bent tab.(probably because of shipping)

I'm talking about the mids and highs.

There are so many things wrong, it's not that hard to miss a thing. And you forgot to tell him to NEVER boost any frequencies; only cut. (so only -x, not +x.) You are doing it wrong again, set the gain with the knob at maximum. You can set it like you just did, that's what I prefer, but that means you have to know how much your equipment can handle because if you turn it up above the middle it can still start clipping and send too much power to the subwoofers. Regarding the speakers, if you want any help with it, just start a new thread(with pictures) because this one isn't clear. If you don't want to have better performance with less speakers and less money, you just don't start a thread and hopefully people won't comment on it anymore.

Hu powered speakers and 8 12's walled? Now I've seen it all. Yes, you usually set it with the remote all the way up unless it's a bass boost. And lose the line driver, offcourse your gain will be at max if your amp can only handle 6V instead of the maximum 8 a line driver can provide at maximum volume. Line drivers are useless in 99% of the installs that use them, only use for them is if you split a lot of RCA's, to like 8 or more amps and you start out with a 1V signal or lower, other then that it's pointless. If it removed engine noise for you that's very lucky for you because they always add noise to the signal, just find the origin of the noise and lose the line driver.

Just fuse for the wire. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/183486-how-to-fuse-wire-in-car-audio/#entry2726491

Separate boxes arent good, put them in a shared airspace box with enough port area, which is more then 30sq inches per subwoofer. The mids are useless for midbass unless you have them in a ported enclosure in your doors. Because the midrange is so overpowering youll need a lot of midbass to balance it out, which isn't possible without porting the pro audio speakers. They are designed to work in ported enclosures. You havent specified any equipment you have and didnt list your goals, nor posted pictures of what you have. It's harding understanding what you need. You have the speakers mounted outside the car? Does that mean you want the same with the bass? So loud outside the vehicle, it's not for your own incar sound experience? Also answering questions that have been asked will help you out too.

Offcourse you have so little voltage drop, if you actually look at how much power the amp will actually make after taking the impedance curve (+ 50% duty cycle on music) into consideration and the amount of resistance the CCA wire gives you. Without measuring you don't know how much current the amp is using. As you probably already know, he can't have a frequency bandwidth starting at 35Hz reaching all the way up to 100-120Hz(just guessing haven't modeled those drivers yet ) and be loud at the same time without a lot of power behind them. The OP should make ported enclosures for those PA woofers, that'll get him where he wants to be.

There's your problem.

Care to elaborate? Certainly. Advantage number 1 : You gain 132W (which is almost 3.5%) A increase of 3.5 percent, which means it will be only 0.1 dB louder which more then obviously is unhearable or even unnoticeable. Those are the only advantages.(except maybe looks) Disadvantage number 1: You have to pay 25 dollar extra for the single reducer (plus shipping maybe?) or 30 dollar for the double 1/0 input where you see the 3.5 percent increase, so it would almost be stupid to buy the 0 guage to 0 guage adapter. Disadvantage 2: You get a extra link in the chain of wiring that could fail. Disadvantage 3: The amplifier becomes longer so you need more space. Disadvantage 4:Positive and negative are not shielded off, so if you drop a screw or anything else that is conductive on it you will see spark and overheating of the object which can turn into a fire or atleast damage the interior of the car. Now im going to list things I dislike: You need to pay extra for the reducer and then buy extra wire just to make a little tiny bit more power. Why would I need to shove more wire in a amplifier even though the amp doesn't have dual or triple inputs for the positive and negative, i'm pretty sure the engingeers designed it so it only needs 1 set of terminals (if that isn't correct then the amp isn't engineered correctly and I certainly won't support that company) Why would there be a increase in power if you add something to the chain of wiring eventhough the amount of wire stays the same(seems more like a test error to me, because the wire attaches exactly in the same way to the amp as it does to the reducers). There can be some spelling/grammar mistakes as i'm typing this on my cellphone.

Seems like the disadvantages easily win over the advantages.

Just put that in winisd and get port velocity of 74ft/s at 30 hz. As long as the vents are 45'd and a radius on the port exit. port noise should not be a problem correct? Shouldn't be a problem at all.

Probably for the same reason anyone would choose skar, 0.5ohm, bandpass enclosures and so on...

People not understanding physics, thinking their equipment will defy the laws of physics.

Interesting tip, I though I was the only one doing that. (Although I have 3 creases per sheet) It's easier to fold it on the side of a table or workbench. At around 6.37 you apply the overkill to the roof, you forgot to tell people to also put some adhesive on the deadener first.