Skullz

While not cheap or small they'll have something your looking for. http://www.zukiaudio.net/

Cool as hell. http://editorial.aut...icid=autos_3084

So many threads on here to choose from, here you go, start clicking away. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/forum/19-tunez-all-things-music-related/

JBL P660c are great speakers that will take power like few others in it's price range and sound as good doing it. You will have to jump in price and quality to come close to the performance they offer, as long as you treat the doors proper you will have enough midbass to reach the sub stage and then some for seamless blending. I would not get anything less than a 6.5" for the doors cause with the smaller speakers you lose to much midbass and have to cross them higher leaving a gap between them and the sub and the sound will just not sound right. Get some MDF 6.5' rings to mount to your doors so you have a good solid mounting spot for your speakers to reduce any vibrations the speaker tries to transfer to the door.

Have you turned on the sub output? Is the sub output turned up to max? Is the gain on the sub amp turned up enough to get sound? First thing to do is check and make sure all sub controls on the H/U are turned on and up. Next is the sub and check with a small amount of power from a 9v, 14v baterry or battery pack as a quick way of testing the sub. If those are working and you still have nothing then work down the line with rca's and eq as possible problems.

So you go and openly make a post on something that was broken for a response to do something about and then turn around and fix it yourself when you could have done that in the first place without making this post is just plain wrong and in bad taste. A simple call, email or PM on here would have achieved the same results without flaming a company in public on a forum.

That's a prototype sub i can sink my teeth into.

Cool beans, glad things worked out for you and you were able to get your hard earned money back.

Sounds like a wire issue being cut, pinched or grounded causing the distortion. Since that is all you have at the moment i would just leave it set to the front until you get a chance to upgrade. EDIT: You can run all new wire from the H/U to the speakers bypassing any stock wiring that would cause an issue for the time being.

Check with some repair shops and see if they can mod the power supplies to handle the higher voltages and if so you'll be open to many more options than trying to find a new one capable of running higher than normal voltages.

So many people try to start to big instead of building on what they have. First thing to do is get a good H/U that your happy with that will last a few years. Next on the to do list is the front stage and get it to where your happy with as far as power and sound quality cause you can do those with little to no upgrade in electrical outside of the big 3, also the front stage is the most overlooked part of many peoples system and seems to be an after thought on what to do after dropping most of a budget on the subs and sub amps. Finally after your to a point where your happy with everything else then get some subs and amp as a temp setup with small power to hold you over till you can do it as big as you need to cause buying gear to sit in a room and not use any part of your warranty is foolish and wasteful cause in the event you ever need it by the time you do use it it may be out of warranty or close to ending.

If i'm not mistaken you can have the older PPI art series modded to run higher voltages but don't quote me on that as you'll want someone with more knowledge in amplifiers to chime in. It seems like most amps capable of the higher voltages are the mono sub amps with very few multi channel amps capable of running in higher voltages. EDIT:Does the car itself run on 16v/18v or do you have it on 12v and the rest of the system on the higher voltage? If your car is using a 12v system then just get any amp capable of the power you need and run it on your 12v system and the rest on the higher voltage.

Amazing how stupid people can be to scam someone on smd with nate's bloodhound tracking abilities.

It's much cheaper in the long run if you just take it in and have it repaired the right way instead of trying to repair it yourself. To answer your question though it is a yes and no kind of thing depending on your knowledge and availability on getting parts to make the repair along with equipment to make sure what your replacing is bad to begin with.

Good to hear man and glad your out and doing good.

You'll need to completely clean all the residue off before applying new deadener, paint thinner, mineral spirits should be enough to get it clean to start with a fresh clean surface. EDIT: Most butyl compound deadeners will work well but it comes down to what your willing to spend for the desired effect.

Welcome to generic motors. I bailed that ship years ago.

Very interesting read to say the least. http://www.theaudiofeast.com/Making-of-Feastrex-Diaphragm.html

Hertz hdp4 uses the same board as ppi, polk, soundstream but not quite sure on the others and how many other lines all use the same ones though. EDIT: that nvx seems so close to the ppi line in looks but lacks the same power rating as the ppi though.

Screw matching power ratings on speakers as they'll take more power like subs can if your smart about it and don't blow them. More power is better in front stage as it means less distortion and a cleaner sounding front stage to build you sub stage on. 150w is a bare minimum for fronts but don't be afraid to get up into 300w per channel, it doesn't mean you'll use all that power it just means you'll have the power needed to play the level you want to listen to cleanly and without distortion. EDIT: Look into the ZED Audio , Zuki custom , RF T1000.4 http://www.zedaudiocorp.com/index.php/products/leviathan-iii/item/leviathan-iii.html http://www.zukiaudio.net/Custom.html Do NOT let the ratings fool you, 5 zuki watts are close to 175 watts http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34753_Rockford-Fosgate-T1000-4AD.html

If you have no intentions on doing anything other than slapping in a set of 8" speakers you'll be very disappointed in the results you get. You'll need to do it right the first time or you'll play hell getting it to sound any where near decent let alone good. Deaden and dampen the doors and mount them on 3/4" mdf baffles to have something solid for them to be mounted on and you'll be well rewarded for your efforts.

Define decent and what budget do you have to work with. Do you want PA speakers or something along the lines of car audio? Blues makes some really nice 8" along with hybrid audio 8" speakers but depending on what your willing to spend and do the choice comes down to price and application.