ChevyBoy95

the difference being.... 1. yes there is more heat, but nothing that will cause fires or explosions behind you or amplifier failure. 2. The advantage of 1 ohm over 2 is simply more power 3. When an amplifier is 1 ohm stable, it is designed to play down to 1 ohm, so you do not need to worry about extra heat and the heat causing failure of the amp 3a. that being said, that doesnt mean the amp cant overheat because of user error.... 4. 2 ohms has more efficiency than 1, but due to the power increase, 1 ohm still gives out significantly more power

dont post.... ever again....

Shiner bock for daaaaays

in reality just think of the materials used and the break down time that would have to follow. but i get what you mean, i have seen old car with stock "deadener" that is all cracked up and janky looking.

test it, if it maintains voltage that well it might not be, could be over the hill but not completely useless. could use it as a test bench battery or a little portable stereo if it maintains 12.5v well enough.

that will be plenty. what is the idle rating on the 320.

with the voltage boost, with hot/cold effect what you put to the dial? say mine is 14.8v cold, 14.1v hot right now, if i set the dial to 14.5v hot, would that make it do 15.2v cold? Just dont want to hurt my OEM electrical stuff? anyone know what the highest voltage that is ok on OEM 1995 chevy stuff is?

Here is one of the best and closest reviews you will find if you dont have the game already. kind of comical too...

i used 2 level 4 15s, put them in recommended and you will be fine and be able to feed them more than rated power. i would put them in 6-7 cubes, tuned around 32-35hz.

I hate when people bring up box rise speaking about daily systems. Box rise is irrelevant on a daily music system since music is dynamic so the ohm load can be 18ohms 1 second and .2 ohms the next and back up to 12, down to 3, up to 5, down to .3 up to 30, etc. if you aren't talking about a burped tone or a song with a very consistent bassline then why mention box rise?

do you have far cry 3? cause i just beat that and probably one of the better games i have ever played. Great story, you shoot shit the whole time, open world, etc. BL2 is also amazing, put a full playthough on it, all missions and everything and it was pretty fun in coop. Hitman is very story driven, but is more like here is an arena, deal with the situation, then you move on too the next arena. It isnt as plain as the arena to arena made it sound, i think it is great and beat it twice. all are easy game to be serious or have fun with.

Make sure they dont have reversed polarities. Sounds like they could be canceling each other.

the amount of throw is ridiculous.

Using an Oscope is easy to use as a DD-1, I have done both. For ease of use the DD-1 any day of the week, but it is nice to have a visual readout of what is really going on with an Oscope. you want to use the max volume that keeps both the mids/highs amp and bass amp output signals clean. You also want to test the max volume unclipped from the HU. And i would use -5db or roughly that for the sub amp.

Could I possibly get a price or do i need to wait?

Yea, I did it to get metro and darksiders

OK, I finally got it to work. The issue is that Xbox consoles can only deal with WEP protection or no protection at all. Uverse internet comes set with the wireless password on WPA or WPA2 security, this being more secure than WEP, but not good if you want to play XBL. With the http://XXX.XXX.XX.XXX (advanced config number on the modem) you go to the site, then go to LAN -> Wireless, and then scroll down to security type, it will have a drop down bar with WPA and WPA2 as the default, set it to Shared WEP since Open WEP essentially has no protection. The password to wireless will be the same and just enter it on the xbox like normal and it should work. I dont know if the MAC address and allowing the firewall to pass XBox application is also a reason it worked, but with those 3 things my XBL is connected and working.

it isnt just "enter the password" and it works. The new modem has firewall settings where it blocks my xbox. I think i know how to resolve it. The IP and Mac Address of my xbox router and xbox were restricted by the AT&T modem, and no, i do not need to restore factory settings since it didnt work when i had changed nothing. And what i changed doesnt hamper anything, it just put less firewall restrictions and allowed detection of the xbox. But i still need to allow the xbox IP to be recongnized by the modem. Sheena, the xbox detects it fine, the modem isnt allowing the signal to pass. and there are NUMEROUS people with my same issue, yet uverse hasnt changed anything, must be because their support costs money even over the phone...

ttt

We go at&t/uverse yesterday and all has been working fine. All computers, laptops, iphones, whatever has been connected to wifi successfully but my xbox and my brothers xbox will not get a signal. The xbox routers we have worked fine with xfinity/comcast. The xbox routers also recongnize the 2WIREXXX but when connected see no signal and fail the network test almost immediately. What I have tried: Going to advanced config settings (http://XXX.XXX.XX.XXX) allowing the cisco router (AT&T's main router) to authorize passage of the XBox through the firewall. no avail yet... I cant be the only one with this issue, and don't even suggest calling uverse. Tried manually adding the MAC Address and still didnt work.

I have aeros but my box for 2 Xl 15s is 6.5 cubes at 32hz with ~11 per cube and I loooooove it. Plays anything well.

16per cube is way to high for me. Looks like it might end up peaky. You also don't need 7+ cubes, especially due to the power being ran. I would have it around 6.5 cubes and 13 per cube around 32-34hz

what is low to you?

XLs

lol.