Nathan @ XSpower

If you are using the toolmaker bars, then there would be no need to get the 555.

If that was the dumbest thing I heard in a day, than my day would be awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL You wouldn't believe the calls that come into the office.

NICE!!

Yeah that is pretty normal. Your batteries are probably fully charged, so the maintainer will only put a low voltage and amperage charge into the batteries to maintain their charger. Once you draw one of them down the maintainer should charger for a longer period of time.

The Ibar 551 will work for you to allow for the side posts.

Sorry for the delay. My daughter had unexpected surgery last week and I have been out of the office. If the crack is all the way through by now you would probably see some leaking. Has it leaked at all? Easiest way to see if it is going to leak is to put some paper under the battery and hook it up on the charger. If it is going to leak it will by doing this. If there is no leaks, then you are probably fine. If there is a leak, then you have a crack through the case and some of the internal pressure has been released. You could try sealing it back up with some silicone and see how that works. I have ran one that was cracked for a years or so now with no issues.

The D2400 will fit in the stock location, but the terminals are reversed. You would need to check and see if your cables are long enough to work or extend your cables. Extending your cables is pretty simple especially if you haven't completed the Big3 upgrade yet.

No prob man. It should be fine. It basically will charge just one step above float, because the drain will not be enough to make it overcharge.

The thing to keep in mind on HO Alts is the max output isn't the only thing you need to look at when purchasing. The max output is just that.......... maximum output at optimal conditions (rpm, heat, etc...). In my opinion the most important thing to look at when it comes to alternators is the output at idle. If it does 185amps stopped at a stop sign and tops out at 250amps max, then that is better than an alt that does 80amps at idle and "400 amps" max. Just like the fuel mileage rating on a new car............ that is optimal and you probably aren't going to see that.

What was the voltage on your batteries after you let it sit for the day with the charger off? Could be they just need a good charge. 25amps will be fine with the battery power you have. I have also seen where an electrical drain pops up and this will cause the charger not to go into float. Put a clamp on the charger and see what the amperage is when it is charging at 13V, or if you have the new 1005 just push the amperage button. If the charger sees a small drain it thinks the batteries are not fully charged and will continue to charge just about float mode settings.

If this is for daily and you have a 250amp alt along with the 3400 upfront, then you would be fine with putting another 3400 in the back. Now if this is for competition or demo use, then putting the D3100 in the back or an XP300 would probably be better. Of course the Big3 upgrade will help either way! http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_74887_XS-Power-BIG3XS.html

You are comparing a 26lbs battery with a 54lbs battery, so yes the XP2000 will be stronger all altogether.

That looks good!

Ok cool.

Not really a trade in program put in place. They are set amperage units, so there are 15amp, 30amp, and 60amp units. If you are only going to use it as a power supply, then you would look at the amperage draw your electrical system would be pulling with the car off at a car/trade show. If you are going to use it as a charger, then go as big as you can afford if you have a bank of more than 3 batteries. If you have a bank of batteries then you can basically take the amperage output available and divide it by the number of batteries. That will give you the basic amperage each battery is going to see during charging, so if you have 6 batteries and the 60amp IntelliSupply then each battery would see around 10amps each. If you had the 1005 charger and a bank of 6 batteries then each battery would only see around 4amps. Optimal charge rate is around 15amps per battery.

The 2014 models are not in the fitment guide yet, so I would need to get the measurements. On the ATV and side-by-sides the S, D, or XP series would be fine. Prob be better to go with the D or XP series, because they are less money and you do not need the automotive posts that come with the S series.

The new IntelliSupply has the options of Power Supply, Charger/Maintainer, and recovery charger. You can have it turned on as a power supply at car shows and it works as a power supply. When you want to charge the batteries you can just switch it over to charger and it will act as a charger/maintainer like the 1005 mode. It also has a recovery/desulfation mode you can switch to if you have let your batteries run down and they have started to sulfate. So it is different than the 1005 charger in a few different ways and the IntelliSupply is offered in 15, 30, and 60 amp models. Each unit is able to charge 12, 14, and 16V batteries. Another added feature that no other power supply on the market currently has is a thermal runaway protection. What this does is protect your batteries from being overcharged if you happen to leave the power supply turned on longer than needed. If you have ever been to a trade show or car show and someone has left their power supply on over night, then you have smelled the sulfer smell of over charged batteries. The IntelliSupply has a hook up that you attach to your battery or battery bank and it detects the temperature of the battery. When the battery starts to get overcharged and hot the IntelliSupply cuts the charge down to protect the battery or battery bank. The IntelliSupply also comes with a remote control, so if you install the supply somewhere hidden in the vehicle or have it under the vehicle at a show you can use the remote to monitor and turn the supply off. Should be shipping end of next month. We have already shipped a few 100 units to Wet Sounds audio and come other OEMs to run their product displays and display vehicles.

Go to the XS Power facebook page to get all the details!

Probably would start a horrible rumble in the vehicle, which wouldn't last long and would be followed by a green monster running away tale tucked between its legs............lol

I am going to the site and it doesn't show anything about a D6500 when I enter Dodge Ram 5.7. The Ram should take a 94R battery, which we do not make a direct replacement, but as your friend told you the D4800 should work fine. Always double check the measurements and terminal placements though.

Good to hear. We try to offer customer service that is unmatched. We are all here in TN. I will go in and yell at my guys telling them how bad of a job they did and then send them a link to this post...........lol Gotta have fun.

I was about to ask who here told you to wire the batteries in Series. We was about to have a conversation!

As long as they are the same chemistry make up (AGM) you will be fine. The new 1005 is just bad ass!

The XP2000 is a lot bigger and stronger than the D975. The two really aren't comparable as far as power is concerned. If you are looking for reserve capacity the XP2000 would def be the way to go!

High 12s is the highest you are going to see if your pull is exceeding your alternator output. Think of it this way. 12V batteries are only going to sit at 12.9V fully charged with the residual charge pulled off of them. Anything higher is alternator power.