CJ18

Tuned in for this!

With a successful sale, we will work to keep offering different sales for you guys.

DC Audio's Monday Madness SALE! This Monday(October 28th), ALL Level 2s are going to be 20% off! Wait it gets better. IF you buy 2 Level 2 Subwoofers, you will be eligible for a 15% discount on a 1.2k Amplifier!!!!! Stay tuned for details on how to order. Thanks DC Audio Sales Team

There are 10 y-splitters, 6 3', 10 6', and 2 12'

Most of these are going in the truck. Some are going to Jeff, and the 12' are going down to Cuba.

No excuses for not using the highest quality products I can get my hands on.

Yeah, you will be hearing from me tomorrow on this one. I have everything else not planning on breaking that trend.

All that a line driver is going to do is boost your rca input voltage. If you are using a stock headunit that has an absurdly low voltage output voltage, then it has its place. Another thing to look at is the quality of the line driver. Alot of the line drivers you are going to buy are not going to cleanly boost your signal voltage. If you have 2v-4v of pre out voltage, then I would not worry about the line driver. This is what your gain is for. Sending you a PM now.

I have 2 hf1415s to charge my 1400s and cut the clamps off and replaced them with ring terminals. I leave them bolted to the buss bars and just plug them in to charge whenever needed.

No need for the Line driver and our 2.0k will be perfectly fine for a pair of Level 3s. I have dynoed them doing over 2300w certified.

Not alot. Just hit the 6 mark on red. 2 blue, and 1 grey I believe.

Responded to your pm

We do our best to keep up. If you contact me directly, I will be able to help you immediately as long as I have my phone on me.

There is no pre sale planned.

No 2 subs are going to be alike. You are talking about subs from 2 different companies that were designed by 2 different people and use completely different parts. What Sundown, DD, SSA, Ascendant, Fi, DC, etc subs are going to like will vary from sub to sub. Sure there may be some overlapping on some, but every sub is going to have a specific range that it likes and performs best in. I just had a customer email me complaining that his Level 6 15s were only doing mid 40s, my first question was what size is your box. He had them in just over 5ft3 per sub. I had him build a new box that was right at 3.5-3.75ft3 per sub and I get another email back saying "holy crap you were right". For the most part all DC subs tend to like smaller boxes. This should be great news to most people because that means A) you dont need as much room to run our subs or you can fit more of them in the space you have available. There are so many variables in car audio that are uncontrollable and your box is one of those variables. My recommendations are just base recommendations based on what i know the subs like. It is up to you to then take that and figure out what works best for that sub in your own vehicle.

You also know, that the .5 load test, is reactive right? .Not nominal....Would you wire to like .2 ? I thought it was nominal not reactive. Like nominal would mean that it is always .5 and a reactive load would change. Could be wrong though. No, the Dyno tests using purely resistive loads. It is NOT subject to any type of rise. If a test is done at 1 ohm, then that is what the amp is seeing for the entire duration of that test.Now that being said, the dynamic test is much easier on the amp and electrical than the certified or uncertified tests. I would be very surprised if that amp stayed on for a .5ohm certified test. And for the fact that he simply states they will not warranty the amp at .5 ohm. I don't get why a company would test at .5 ohm load and then not warranty if they are going to brag about results? Still great numbers and loved my 4500s.It will give you an idea of what you will get with impedance rise factored in.For example, as kyle said, 1 ohm dyno will be similar to wiring to .5 in your vehicle. I have to disagree. I have wired to .5 ohm and seen anywhere from 1.2-6 ohms reactive.

This has my vote.

Speaking as a Dyno owner and having done the tests myself, the 2 numbers that truly matter to me are the Certified and Uncertified. I dont know enough about the Dynamic test to really understand how that would translate over to a daily application. If an amp passes Certified mode, then in my book it is a good amp. Now when bench testing an amp, you are testing it under the best possible conditions. Once the amp is in a vehicle, it is at the mercy of that specific vehicles electrical. Things I would like to know about a bench being used to test amps. 1) What batteries and how many are being used. 2) What charger or power supply is being used to keep the batteries charged. 3) Is said charger or power supply being used during the test From the tests I see here, I see a 15.5v, that tells me that 16v batteries are probably being used. There is a lack of information here other than just showing dyno numbers.

You also know, that the .5 load test, is reactive right? .Not nominal....Would you wire to like .2 ? I thought it was nominal not reactive. Like nominal would mean that it is always .5 and a reactive load would change. Could be wrong though. No, the Dyno tests using purely resistive loads. It is NOT subject to any type of rise. If a test is done at 1 ohm, then that is what the amp is seeing for the entire duration of that test. Now that being said, the dynamic test is much easier on the amp and electrical than the certified or uncertified tests. I would be very surprised if that amp stayed on for a .5ohm certified test.

What is being used for the power supply?

Your numbers look good. If you have any specific questions or need any help, please send me a PM and I will be glad to help.

Did you not read what I just posted above? 1.5-1.75ft3 net airspace per sub with 12-15in2 of port per 1ft3.

haha good stuff. Glad you like it. What do you think she would say if you ordered her a Level 6?