tonedeaf

Id do biggest battery under the hood, biggest alt you can fit (probably a 270) and 2 XS power D3100s in the rear, although you might be able to get away with one + biggest battery that'll fit under the hood. Dont use the caps.

Explain to me how people like dbdon run step-downs daily and has no problem. What will you be fixing all the time? As for running it only for competing and such, I disagree with that too. Unless you are running a 2k watt system in the trunk with no plans to upgrade, I think it's worth it. I'm heavily considering 18v daily, because charging at a higher voltage when all you have the space for is two alts is, IMO, completely worth it. More power from alts, more power from amps. Is it a headache? Yes. Is it worth it? Depends on who you're asking. I think it is.

Cool story bro. No but really, cool shit. Too bad as said it would prolly get copied quickly.

Deadening prolly won't cut it. Time for a stripper pole from there to the box baffle. Steel roof gogo.

If you're using your iPhone, turn it down one click from full if the hu doesn't control the iPod. Eq flat as well in the iPod. Not sure f yours controls that or not.

Make it better, fill with poly, and watch them be like "why it SOOOO much betta?!". Sounds like they were expecting the family discount. Then tell them the time it takes to build a box and the cost of supplies. Mdf around here is almost $40 a sheet.

Removing the paint anything will work as log as it gets down to bare metal. I normally use a scotchbrite pad and go to work. To test your ground check the voltage you are getting from your positive and negative leads at the battery or amp. Now with your positive on either the amp or battery, use your grounding location for your negative. If voyage is more than .1 off your ground could be better. Once I know it's a nice solid ground I use plastidip spray to cover the grounding location.

What n8 said. Plug it in as per the directions, set without clipping, you're done. It doesn't matter what impedance your amp is at, gain has nothing to do with ohms. It is about matching up to the voltage of your preouts from your headunit. The dd1 just let's you set it as high as it will go without distortion. Ohms is an entirely different unrelated conversation.

They don't offer a 20% discount though.

Out of 200.4s FTL.

Thanks for clearing that up. Good info there.

Got you on that chode. I didn't think you could really keep a battery charged that low and not at the least shorten it's life. Makes sense now, and I didn't know where it liked to be. :cheers:

Sorry to thread jack as well, but a 14v battery charges at what, 17volts almost? I thought the 12k was only 12v stable. Where does it protect? How can you run a 12v amp that is only stable up to like 16ish volts at higher? And if it is stable on a 16v system, it's normally stable on an 18v system. So why go 16v if 18v costs very little more and is just that much better? I'm not bashing or anything just curious if I'm missing something.

Why 14v? Can you safely run 12v stable amps at 16ish volts or do you just charge at like 15.4 or something. I realize the 12k isn't stable at 18v, I just don't se why people do 16v systems over 18v if I'm not missing something secret. Either way though, sexy amps are sexy. 2 9ks or not. :hmmm:

The step-downs are rated at 25 amps constant, 50 amps max. General consensus seems to be 2 for your older cars, and 3 for your newer cars. If you turn on every accessory in your car you can use a clamp to tell what kind of amperage your using, and know how many you'll need. As for highs amps, I'm with you...I'm wanting a full 18v daily setup since I only have the room for two alts, so to my knowledge the only way to run them is as many step-downs as amperage they can pull. Sadly at $150 per sd iirc, it gets extremely expensive very quick. If I could only run 4 alts.

Looking to see how many watts I can expect out of a d1600? I havent found what you're rating them at. Will be for mostly daily with competing several times a month.

Mediarocker, the reason he says its a stronger spark is because, although stepdowned, he's always getting 14.x voltage to the car. Never ever dropping below that. With the constant power never changing or fluctuating, it makes it more efficient. That's what he was assuming. Who knows. As for why not a 24v system, to my knowledge there are no car systems or amps that are 24v capable. Not to mention many alternators are limited to around 20v I thought.

Loving the whole thing.

I need one. Voltage drop with maybe 2k watts and I'm about to add another 1400 in highs. (

Link this to lunchbox. I think he's doing a 152 @ 17 hz?

What was your charges for it? I use to professionally detail cars and there arent any good ones around here. But to me a full detail takes 3-5 hours. Sometimes longer depending what gets done and how dirty it is. (those who have never detailed, you wouldn't believe how nasty some people keep their cars) As for supplies if you plan on continuing doing this, talk to the local dealerships about who they get their supplies from. You can normally get them from the truck that supplies all the local dealers get their shit at cost and have much better quality supplies that make your job a ton easier and saves you money from buying the cheap nasty shot at walmart.

Some of the jls have high roll, and I think some of the ai? Not too sure on it effecting sound. I would think the soft parts effect that more than a high roll surround.

It's a butyl base. Not like asphalt. It does not have a stink, which is why you dot need a heat gone to properly apply it. It's also a much stronger bond than asphalt based products. This is why quality deadner > the cheap shit. There are other reasons to be listed, but I won't go into all that.

45.7

Om nom nom. Sexy as fawk.