audiofanaticz

I had people offer me great amounts of money for my prototype hlc-1, one guy even waved $200 cash in my face.. But I wont sell it because I need it IF or when I put a small setup back in my car. There is one that doesnt distort, and Im trying to remember myself because I need one for an upcoming install

YELLOW

any image service will work fine, as long as your using the direct link to the picture. so google images, facebook (if you right click the picture and click on view image and use that link), imgur, imageshack, photobucket, etc. or you can use the direct option as well for sharing photos on a forum that has code copied into the link. There is no preferred, I used photobucket for the longest time myself, but switched to imageshack due to them allowing high res photos, and dont they dont take 20 years to load your album some browsers wont let you right click and paste, the option does not show up, however ctrl c and ctrl v works just fine.

Looks like the picture button works fine for me. so it must be something with your computer, or your not using it right. where are you trying to use the pictures from?

well you could of copied and then pasted your lengthy post before refreshing the page.

Some amps you must connect both positive and negative cc-1 probes to the positive and negative speaker outputs, other wise you will get no signal. This goes for the dd-1 as well. Common for amps with tiffany style rca's on the amplifier or differential inputs. Several users posted that their dd-1/cc-1 don't work, and they say they have crescendo amplifiers, and doing it the way I said above works, even if its not a crescendo amplifier, due to the negative speaker output on the amp typically being a common ground. Not going to lie, every time I use my SMD tools, I go straight for the positive and negative speaker output, because I know it works every time, with or without differential rca's.

done.

pm'ed you.

The only difference between a stock NSv3 and a ZV4 is the spider, coil, and motor. Since the motor is the same, your left with a spider and coil. IIRC the NSv3 spider is a little bit stiffer due to the couple more layers that are pressed together. The ZV4 uses an 8 layer aluminum coil that comes in dual 2 or dual 4 The stock NSv3 coil is a 4layer aluminum coil that comes in dual .7 or dual 1.4 Now a stock NSv3 gap is huge, the coil is huge, fitting the stock NSv3 coil into a ZV4 I dont think is possible (im saying that because I never had to tear down any of their new drivers personally so dont know the exact specs) However the NSv3 gap can be shimmed out a varity of different ways to use almost any coil from the multiple different versions of the Z, X, or NS line. The different shims and the ability to change these options are to suit the woofer for the owners wants and needs to give him the best possible woofer in his setup. But lets say that the NSv3 coil fits into the ZV4 gap , the increased power handling would be about 400 to 500 watts conservatively. I say this because put the higher wattage coil into a weaker motor does not always automatically mean more power. The first issue your going to have is the motor and the strength to convert the power to output, not only that but if that motors cooling cant keep up with the added power you will smoke the coil. Also just because a coil from a higher powered woofer is used doesnt mean its just so that the woofer can handle more power, sometimes its for the response that is wanted out of the woofer, such as a different moving mass, a higher fs, maybe a tighter gap to change the bl.

if its showing signal, and picking up the 40hz and 1khz track, and your volume is on max, it maybe that your headunit is distortion free at max volume. Several headunits are.

So did it work?

Yes, speaker positive and speaker negative. Because the rca ground on a tiffany style or differential rca input is not grounded together with the amps ground like on the majority of amplifiers. So grounding to the amps ground, or even a battery ground will not complete the needed circuit to make the dd-1 or cc-1 work. TBH, dont matter what style inputs the amp has, I just go straight for the speaker outputs to hook up the dd-1 and cc-1. If your using a 4channel amp, sometimes you might not get signal on the left channel, so you may need to use the right channel, so that is also something to be aware of. Only a handful of amps do this from what I noticed. But just saying it just in case you run into that issue.

Going to quote myself from another person with crescendo amps and cant get their tools to work. Also some of the older DD-1s with the recessed rca connection in the top, There are some RCA cords that have ends that are too bulky to get the cable to fit into the opening, which wont make a contact and you wont get a signal. Ive had this happen a few times.

Yea, I just CA glued it back together and slammed it in a vice for a couple hours. LOL

A little carpet for the visible areas making an accessory harness for remote wires, volt meters, and a few extra wires that go front to back just in case. Fuse holder decided to break when I was undoing the setscrew Fuse holders remounted. yes, the wires are a mess.. I need busbars bad, but that wont happen until I have to tear it all out to put 3 more d3100s back there, and also swap the rca's from front to rear with some SMD cables. Theres 18 1/0 power wires front to back connected on these 5 batteries, plus another 16 1/0 cables that run to the amps, then the 8 1/0 jumper cables from battery to battery. RF T30K 360.2 software Wow, couldnt of cut the clearance any closer...

If I backed it into my garage to get out of the rain I could have it playing in not long at all, but Im sore from all the crap I did today. Amps just need to be tuned, and have woofers hooked to them.

Figure I do the easy update.. All 4 4500s are in...

The "my content" and the "search" should be fixed again.

thought i was the only one. Ill let kyle know.

Little more progress.. Welded the little strip on the bottom to give the amp rack a ledge to set the amps on so they dont slide off before they get bolted. welds are starting to look a tad better, but much more prat ice is needed for sure! The hinge idea I came up with. Using a grade 8 bolt so it should be plenty strong and welded the nut to the amp rack itself. Should give me minimal /limited room to get under the amps for whatever reason if needed. Hung the rack from a JL audio basket with a giant ziptie And a couple coats of paint Sold an alt to my friend and needed a harness to get the dummy light to turn off on the dash, Singer was the first to reply and reasonably priced ftw amps laid out on the rack to mark the holes to drill them for bolts Also drilled the holes in the angle iron which will be secured to the back of the wall with lag bolts Hinges bolted on Also pulled the batteries out the back for the time being

So I bought a welder the other day, and went to use it last night and the feed wheel didnt spin. So I returned it last night which is where I left off after cutting the angle iron. Today I decided to try welding, this time the feed wheel works. I need a bottle and some gas on it, but Im going without for now. Not a pro at welding by any means, and all I ever did was a little bit of welding with a stick welder. I got a big learning curve ahead of me. After all people took classes for this and have many years experience. So here is my first weld... LOL and amazingly it stays together! haha grinding it all smooth test fitting more test fitting some added corner supports to stiffing it up a little I need to get a little more steel, I want to run a lip or a small raised edge along the bottom so the amps will not slide off when i set them on there before I get to put the bolts through to securely hold them.