audiofanaticz

I thought mine where up to snuff for the most part. Just figured I had a lot of rolling mass due to the 24inch rims, and the system that was in it, but with no box, subs, amps, batteries it still was the same. Really noticed it wasnt up to par when I drove my friends 97 chevy pickup and me going to brake like I do in my truck caused me locking his brakes up. LOL

cool as fuck!

I see you have a 1999 burban.. You can replace brakes all day, but you will still have the problem. You need to bleed that ABS box under your hood (its kinda next to the master cylinder and by the driver side fender). Ive had a simular issue, and for a while I thought my rear drums where loosening up from the system, but after I changed drums, shoes, new brake hardware in the rear, and still had the issue with no system in the truck I started buying new things. I ended up replacing the Master Cylinder, bench bled it, put it on, bled all the brakes starting with right rear, left rear, right front, left front, and still had issues... Than I bought a new Brake Booster, put that on re bled the Master Cylinder and all brakes again.... issue still there. Finally after doing lots of reading on a tahoe and yukon forum, people said that you never need to bleed the ABS box, but one guy did and his brakes than responded right. So I said screw it, all that could go wrong is needing to buy more brake parts.... So I bled each line off the ABS Box (pumping the pedal til it was hard, than opening the line like you would do normal bleeding with 2 people). Ended up doing each line about 6 times iirc. Got in my truck gave the pedal a quick few pumps to build the pressure back up and took it for a drive. Wow did they lock up the 24s like a champ!!! The pedal was hard, and it would maybe take a inch of travel for full hard stopping power. Before I bled the ABS box it went to the damn floor, and would barley slow me down at highway speeds!! Just trying to help. You can either listen, or not listen and spend hundreds replacing things that where fine!! My truck is a 1999 Tahoe, same damn crap, just 2 feet shorter than yours. Here are a few pics under the hood, the ABS box with the lines that need to be bled are below my pointer finger.

Anytime I do brakes (for my vehicles, my parents, or even friends) I always go with ceramic pads, usually the ones priced in the 50-70 dollar range per pair depending on vehicle. As someone said before they are virtually brake dust free, so if you have a polished aluminum rim or chrome rims it keeps the rims looking clean and not all dirty looking. Ceramics stop better! You may not notice to much of a difference but you will stop in a shorter distance. Other things such as how hard the calipers squeeze the pads, and rotors will also be variables to stopping distance. Ceramics also work better under hotter conditions, so if you went from 100mph and braked very hard (but not hard enough to lock up the wheels) normal brakes would get hot, and lose their stopping ability, where ceramics would keep stopping the vehicle. Ceramics are often times more expensive, but hell Id never buy some cheap 19$ pads anyways for a vehicle id be driving. You wont have to change ceramic pads as soon as normal pads, but this can also vary dependent of your driving habits. 2 cons for ceramics is they cost a little more than normal pads 10-20$ in most cases, the other con is they eat up your routers faster due them being a stronger mixture of compounds making them ceramics. More than likley you wouldnt notice the shorter rotor life if you bought new rotors and got the decent ones. Rotor are normally cheap. I think I did front brakes in my tahoe it was around 184$ using duralast gold ceramics, duralast gold rotors, and i forget the brand calipers i swapped out.

1: do you fuck on the first date? 2: do you deep throat? 3: do you do anal?

Just a fyi: A box that is 35wide, 22 deep, and 15+inches is going to be VERY hard to fit in many trunk openings. I really hope you "box designers" are accounting correctly that these boxes will fit in the trunk opening that you have no idea on a size of. So far this looks the most promising, however Id ditch the center divider and increase the triangle in the middle of the port, and 45 the corners of the port to accommodate the 45. Something like this... or This was before the baffles where routered for the port, and the 2nd baffle installed, and edges rounded on the port mouth. The divided port only has 1 gain, and that's when or if you blow a sub, the sub still see's the same airspace. However you lose valuable space, especially in a trunk!

FYI that car with the surreals in it did a whooping 135db on a termlab with the door open. Dont let fake video titles fool you!

I lol'ed but what should i tuna my box at?

topic locked, and link to illegally pirated music deleted. Next time you attempt to share illegally pirated music you shall be banned randomhero!

You mad bro??// :popcorn:

Never link to eBaum's World. Shit's just taken from everywhere else on the 'net. Steve posted the original video in the first post. IDK why you bothered to post a 2nd link. Possibly because the video he linked was in slow motion, unless you didnt notice the video being almost 3 times as long.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pI1jEAy6-6k That is all. edit for new teaser video http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=X0OlIt6s1XA

The amp will be ran at .35 ohms because the subs in the other thread are dual 2ohm mayhems, which are not really dual 2 ohm coils, they are dual 1.4ohms, which brings it down to .35 ohms. Those amps do not like to run much lower than .7ish ohms, or they like to go snap crackle pop.

Box is looking good steve, hopefully it sounds just as nice! I wouldn't recommend it 1st reason if you get dual 2 ohm coils which actually read 1.4 a coil you would be running that amp at 0.35ohms (parallel wiring) or 1.4ohms (series/parallel wiring). That amp sure wont take .35ohms. At 1.4ohms that amp wont make much power, especially after impedance rise, and the woofers wouldn't even move with much authority . 2nd reason being that 2 Ascendant Audio Mayhems will laugh at 2500 watts rms on the pair of woofers, and wouldn't even really get moving until you have 4500-5000 watts rms on them. You would be better off going with dual 2 ohm coils and 2 rf 2500bd. Which will be 1 amp per 1 sub @ .7 ohms. If 2 amps is not in your budget you would be better off getting the next model down, like the Havocs and get dual 1 ohm coils (which read .7ohms per coil) and with a series/parallel voice coil wiring config you would be running the amp at a safe impedance of 0.7ohms on one rf2500bd.

There now its in the right section, now what? And you no nothing about a Stetstom 7 k for th OP as super mod, ts ts ts ts yea I know nothing about the Stetsom 7k tho I know a few people with them, 1 person has 8 or 9 of them, and we tried a couple of them in a team van last year along with this "LITTLE" amp. I guess it was a cool amp, it out did 4 Crescendo 3kwps that where ran at .5 each. However a night long of testing and posting great scores, only to pull the van in the lanes the next day at the show and watch the amp go up in flames when we turn it on kinda sucked. Personally Id never buy any Brazillian style/built amp, I like my Koreans. Seem to be much stronger (build wise) in daily applications.

There now its in the right section, now what?

Hello Dom!

Stinger wire is tiny. Put it next to Knukonceptz Fleks OFC and you will shit bricks! Stinger is true awg wire, it is true spec 1gauge by the industry standard. Wire like Knukonceptz, Rockford Fosgate, Kicker, Audio Technix, Shok are considered to be "oversized" wires, so they are slightly larger in diameter aka more copper, which results in a higher amperage rating.

Sorry, better luck next time. I was also curious on this. By setting the deck on it's maximum undistorted, would you get the same spot on the gain that the DD-1 detected? This would tell us just how accurate this JBL amp is at detecting distortion, but detecting anything after the deck that is.... As Steve already answered, possibly yes you should (in theory), but honestly that answer would be no for a couple reasons. However the CD that came with the JBL amp only had 1 track and was around -15db (guesstimate since it was not labeled) so you wouldn't be able to get the overlap on the gain settings. Also unless you have an oscilloscope, or a DD-1 to FIRST check the head unit for maximum un-clipped/distorted volume there is no way to tell where that volume should be prior to using JBL's "new technology" since the amp WILL NOT tell you where your head unit clips. So without a way to know of your radios max undistorted volume, you can only guess or follow JBL's instructions (which are flawed). The owners manual just tells you to "Turn the head unit volume all the way up", and chances are unless your using a top of the line head unit from most companies the head unit will clip around 3/4 volume. Ive used my DD-1 on a few different Alpine CDA-105 head units already, and 2 of the 3 had a different max un-clipped volume. Sort of like an amplifier that comes with birth-sheets, not all of them say the same amount of power, and they tend to vary by a bit due to different variables in the parts. The JBL amp is working slightly different than the DD-1. The DD-1 is looking for 1% THD ((total harmonic distortion) that thing people claim they can hear and tune an amp 100% by ear)) when tuning the amplifier gain. From my understanding the JBL built in gain setting device is operating somewhat similar to an clipping light on many amps, and is lighting up when the rail voltage is XX volts. Meaning that the light will light up no matter what once the rail voltage meets the desired voltage even if its clipped to death. There has been a lot of videos done by various users of people with amps that have a built in clipping light lit up meaning the amp is clipping, but both DD-1 and even a Oscilloscope showing that the input and output of the amp is playing clean, even tho the clip light is on.

Yes their wire is top notch wire!! Great bang for the buck!! Audio Techinix also has new wire that should be shipping with in a week or two. They have OFC and CCA, the OFC is pure 100% copper wire, with no tinning like the majority of the other OFC brand wires out. Its a bit cheaper per 50feet too!

there is a thread about this on the forums already. use the search button

Papaslim..... Nice edit on your post... However the specs on the SSA site are WRONG. I have installed this amp in a buddies jeep with a pair of Sundown SA-12s, box tuned to 27hz, and that amp had no problem playing well below the boxes tuning like a champ with authority. It would be STUPID for any company to make a monoblock amp for subwoofers, and than not have it play over half the frequencies that the sub stage of an audio system to play. I cant believe a person would be so blatant to think that, and continuously argue the specs that are listed on SSA are correct against people that have hands on experience with these amplifiers even after the owner of the company posted them in this thread, where as SSA is just a retailer of the product and many other products and made a typo. Now if you want to continue your Disbelief of the specs listed in this thread posted by the owner of the company and continuously argue about it, you will be having a short vacation from the forums... PS: if you would even goto Skars website, and look at this amplifiers specs, you will notice they are the same specs listed in this thread, and show you that SSA has listed the specs wrong and made a typo. http://www.skaraudio.com/index.php/products/sk-15001d-amplifier.html <<<<<< clicky to be proved wrong again. Kthx.

there is no where near enough room in a car to do 6 18s. even if you give each woofer 4 cubes each your looking at 24 cubes internal, which is not inclulding the 4ish cubes of port displacement or the shell of the wall displacement. Plus to have room to mount all 6 18s, not happening I dont think.