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shogen

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Everything posted by shogen

  1. get any new wire from here man.... I think they go 8ga and up to 4/0 http://www.electronbeam.com/
  2. If you're willing to get the Platinum then get it... but the REMY is a great option as well... no redtops....
  3. either of you guys willing to help a brotha out? I still need to make a "mock" enclosure to see what the biggest is I can fit through my trunk opening so it's not immediate.... let me know ... Thanks!
  4. no need to match "brand" ... just type... so a AGM battery and AGM battery... REMY up front if it fits and a HC800 in the trunk... I have a HC1800 under the hood and NOW a G34 platinum series from Sears... Previously had a HC800 though and it was great at the time... then I moved up to a 3500 ... plus a "1000w" front stage amp.... lol
  5. Just get a Kinetik equivalent up front... no sense in spending the money for a red top .. plus you ideally wanna have the same battery technologies within an install
  6. he wants more lows so a larger box would be better.. Im sorry but im learning alot from you right now.. a larger box will give him more xmax for better lows and plus tuning a 4 cuft is easier than a 2cuft box.. how so? the Fi Q has the xmax of 28mm and have no problem getting low it has to do with the tuning. bigger box is more efficient which will get you louder with less power not hit lower notes it easier to tune a bigger box lower than a smaller box and to hit lower notes 25hz> you need xmax and air. a bigger box is going to allow for more xmax to produce the lows needed to be louder.. to do it with a small box you will need more power..
  7. again ... we're just trying to give proper info .... you're asking and we're providing.... bigger box adds efficiency to a degree... obviously too big will cause over excursion as will not setting SSF properly ... tune lower if you want to play lower.... 32-35hz should allow you decent output on mid 20's ... obviously you should model this in WinISD to get a better idea of the response it would put out at certain tuning .... but it's just a reflection of possible output.... your install will yield many differences due to air space in the vehicle and shape of vehicle as well... just food for thought
  8. I get the sarcasm and that's cool BUT .... you're telling me you know that going "bigger" will give him more "XMAX" which will provide more lows? AFAIK .... XMAX provides more movement of cone i.e. more displacement of air .... or a bit more loudness .... not sure how XMAX correlates directly to ability to play lower ... but if someone can provide the tech explanation I'd love to learn he wants more lows so a larger box would be better.. Im sorry but im learning alot from you right now.. a larger box will give him more xmax for better lows and plus tuning a 4 cuft is easier than a 2cuft box..
  9. the obvious thing to do would be to TUNE lower not use a larger box.... he should have the ability to due it that way which is the RIGHT/BEST way to do so he wants more lows so a larger box would be better..
  10. lmfao.... well as I read it ... seems he is referring to the z.4 in the specs.... but that's the interpretation since he is answering questions about 2 different woofers in that post OMG!!! I didn't know the Zv4 is the same as the X!! I'll save money and just buy that! Edited out swearing to calm myself.
  11. Obviously I wasn't on top of the right thread.... but I'd honestly not recommend all this for OP .... inexperience can cause a lot of mayhem in itself.... I'd say go for mid - lower side to be on the side of safety with all that equipment.... That's just my opinion
  12. Can one of you find the link to the thread? I'm looking for Jacob's post but I cannot seem to find it this is so wrong lol look at Fi Q an 18 needs 6 - 8 cubs ported and not the 4 -6 you stated.. every sub is different and you should go with manufacturer recommendation And another subwoofer guru!!!! No... Use manufacture's specifications as a guide. Those recommendations are straight from Jacob's mouth which if you do not know that is the owner of Sundown...so yes that is the manufacures specifications...now please shut up.... N9neMillahhh - 4 cubes will be perfect for the two 10's on a 3500Dv2 at 1 ohm; don't listen to Krakin because he obviously has no idea what he is talking about.... thank you.. someone here as been reading the forums..
  13. I haven't seen that posted by Jacob ... unless I missed it someone ... Can you provide a link? No... Use manufacture's specifications as a guide. Those recommendations are straight from Jacob's mouth which if you do not know that is the owner of Sundown...so yes that is the manufacures specifications...now please shut up.... N9neMillahhh - 4 cubes will be perfect for the two 10's on a 3500Dv2 at 1 ohm; don't listen to Krakin because he obviously has no idea what he is talking about....
  14. Although it is nice to see you want to help Felton .... stop giving bad advice, without seeing the "EXACT" requirement for the Z.4 I wouldn't go beyond 1.5 cubes per 10" because that would be kinda ridiculous .... Please read up some more before someone listens and loses a subwoofer or more.... I mean this with respect.... im sorry but you gonna need a bigger or another alternator bcuz the saz3500 amp needs 350a.. this is so wrong lol look at Fi Q an 18 needs 6 - 8 cubs ported and not the 4 -6 you stated.. every sub is different and you should go with manufacturer recommendation i wrote these subs,,,
  15. like the install Chris.... HU looks inset? I think that the word.. but car looks fantastics.
  16. Has a -2.5 and a -7.5 track. On the highs amp: -0 was too quiet for me and -5 sounded like it clipped to much. Same with the sub amp. So here's an in-between thanks for this... when I get my horns in/paid-off I will need something to help tune ... hope this will work out for me
  17. Thanks for the words man. Wished I could've put that 3500 to use in my car but you'll give it a much better home I'm sure.
  18. Unfortunately no one here can tell you about the magic 150s for you OP..... It is really a matter of install and limitations directly with installation ..... I DO NOT do SPL comps or measure my output or even really try for loud... I know I'm loud when my substage is in a sealed enclosure and I can be heard coming up the block to my parents house(neighborhood is somewhat quiet though)... lol .... I'd stay with rated but use what you have now and see where that gets you..... I don't see why it couldn't get you to the output you're looking for if you work on that install
  19. How exactly does a sub "beg" for more? I feel like these "it NEEDS more powa" comments are a bit misguided/wrong..... Can we know what enclosures all you guys are using when you post that comment? I have seen some amazing things with a Z3 on 500w .... soooooo ummm, maybe you guys are used to insane amounts of output and I'm not but vibrating a review mirror with one 12 ported on 500w seemed pretty fcking good to me
  20. looks good... you used ALOT of SS .... but I did the same with my CLD tiles... but it made a huge difference... I actually took my trunk lid off my car when I did expanding foam inside the hollowed areas.... laying it flat on the ground made it expand upwards out of the holes instead of pushing against the sheet metal..... has your system changed much since the last update???? I unfortunately sold my bc3500 cuz of bills... no job and suspension work needed on the car... sucks badly!
  21. care to share?? From what I am being told there is no "sense" wire in the regulator. If i was to disconnect it it would go into limp mode and charge at 13.5v. Its actually a good thing because batts under the hood in high temp do not like being charged that high.. I cant get more technical than that sorry. I see.... thanks for relaying the info though... it may be helpful to others is all, that's why I asked.
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