new guy

cool build why no hu though?

yeah i know theres gonna be voltage drop on a 1700w amp on stock electrical i was just wondering why it drops straight off from 14.8 to nearly killing my car. and no big 3 yet. pm'd

i have a scorpion voltmeter i think and i tried straight to the batt and i tried to the radio. ill try to get a dmm and check. ill try to hook it up to my amp and see what it reads. maybe mustangs just have some kinda regulator or something to make them read incorrect.

yea i know that but what i dont get is the amp is putting out atleast 800 - 1000 rms without any kind of voltage drop but as soon as i get around 1200 rms my car starts just going crazy but i never go below like 13v i know my stock electrical cant support the full 1700 rms

i have a 1996 ford mustang v6. i have a brz-1700 and 2 skar 12s. my car will idle at 14.8 no matter what according to my volt meter. all the way up to about 70% volume i have no voltage drop what so ever not even by .1 volts but when i get to about 75 - 85% i drop down to high 13s but the whole car acts like its about to die. my rpms start dropping car shakes all my lights dim like crazy. i dont under stand why i have a what i believe is a entirely stock electrical. why does it act so weird?

its not that hard to understand. the sub facing the front seats the port shooting to the ceiling

i just spray painted mine. it came out good enough, not show room quality but not bad for just a $1.

if you do it your self im sure you could get everything to fix it for around 100 - 200 max. to get someone else to do it, it shouldnt be more then 2 or 3 hours labor. labor is usually around 70ish a hour. you know gas is gonna be around 5 bucks this summer right? you will be getting no more then 10 mpg in this beast. so you should expect to pay more in gas in a year then you payed for the car.

id just go to the junk yard and find a whole donor car, you will need just about every bit and peace out of the donor to get your car working.

yes 2 18s could be louder then 4 15s. if you had 4 kicker comp 15s vs 2 dc lvl xl 18s. the 18s would be louder but generaly the 15s will be louder cone area is KING

honestly if you want good mpgs buy a car, you may be able to get that thing better gas mileage but not much and in all reality spend more on the upgrades then you will save in gas money. the biggest thing to getting good mpg is your right foot anyway. join up ecomodder.com great web site with tons of helpful tips.

well maybe if they are trying to sleep they couldve gave him a call instead and asked him to turn it down, instead of calling the cops that would take 10 times longer. if someone did that to me the next time i even heard them so much as rev up there car once id call the cops id understand if you had 4 15s and out side bumping for hours in the middle of the night. but for 5 min with 2 8s at 2:30 in the afternoon while your in your garuge?

if you plan on doing a 4 sub set up id diffidently do 15s not 12s no matter what.

easily i have my 2 on a brz 1700 and they want more

imho if it wasnt for the price tag of jl i would rock them over skar anyday. if you disagree you have never heard a properly set up w7 system with jl amps and components its pure sex, but for the price id much rather take skar. wayy more bang for your buck and very quality subs and imo nothing comes even close for the price. id take skars over 90% of the subs that are $300+

the solution is built a box for 3 12s and have people use that instead of a seat. or just get straight to walling it and put the back seats in the bed or blow through! :morepower1:

this is crazy i have the same exact problem. one subs goes all out and the other one is only going about 50%. maybe its a wiring issue but i dont think it is. could this just be something with all skar subs? seems pretty wierd that all of us have the same problem. i hope mine goes away too

this. plus why would you film your self shooting bottles 3 feet away?

if i had that i would clean it up really nice, put some head lights in, it some new tires, get it running if possible. then put it up forsale for $6000

I dont plan on upgrading, Just bought the system this month straight from DD in okc. What output should i look to get for the alternator, and how many batteries? replace my starter battery and get another for my system? the biggest you can afford

if this is just your DD and you dont plan on racing it honda itself should be your audiosavings. dont go out and put anything like a racing clutch if you drive it everyday. also, dont put too much money into your cai or muffler or anything like that. they arent really going to make that much of a difference at all. just for looks really. i would drop come money for quality headers/ cat though. theres really not much else to do unless you want to start getting into, engine/ head swaps. id recommend just doing a full tune up and replacing all fluids. that will make more of a difference then any exhaust or intake. also, id be careful about what i buy from ebay. its just like buying car audio from there, you get what you pay for.

i would just cut out a section of the sealed side and then glue it back together.

i would just cut out a section of the sealed side and then glue it back together.

depends on how bad he was messed up. if it wasnt that bad. i would just tell him i hope he learned his lesson and not to talk shit anymore. i mean he is 17 he needs to learn this because if he talks shit to the wrong person he might really get hurt and you wont always be there to protect him. but if he was seriously hurt. id go in there with a bat and start curb stompin mofos also, dont do anything stupid you will go to jail over. its really not worth it.

waiting until the last minute to do hw ftw!