Joe X

Yes slant or round the inner corner of the turn is recommended, if you are to put a 45 there, you need to make sure is not made too big, the port has to be 3 3/8" AT the turn also. EDIT: if you find hard to make 45s just don't do them, is an optimization only, if don wrong can hurt not help performance. If you have any other questions let me know.

Right but it's all already done in the cutsheet, look at the bottom and you will find: "Shared port internal assembly parts" section, just cut the 4 parts and assemble like in the figure, when it's done you will notice that the width of the port halves in the lateral ducts. You may want to draw the cutsheet to verify this. If you are doing the center deflector let me know to give you the dimensions of the parts, all other 45s are 2 1/2" wide.

I modeled that sub and you will get a lot of group delay with them, if you want even frequency response and low group delay you will have to go sealed (even if RE does not recommend that since you will loose lots of output) otherwise go for a 6 cube per sub ported box (double baffle at least), that will limit somewhat it peaking and will slightly reduce group delay, will also cost you output though. Separate chambers will grow the size of your ports and therefore the size of your box and will not improve transient response, if the box is sealed then the box size stays the same except for the displacement of the center divider.

A single Sundown NSv2 18" or Zv3 18" can fit the box size you already have there and will laugh at your current sub. Will overtake the cone surface area of two 12s. Anyways some pic of your stuff would be nice.

You want it far form the internal end of the port, I would place it as shown, in low depth boxes the sub placement can become really important.

Ok the first step is getting the max dimensions for the box, also some comments on your musical tastes.

It says it takes a single 8" sub.

Originally drawn for more powerful subs, have replaced 15" CVR displacement and the result is as follows: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 35.8 Hz Vb = 8.6 ft^3 External Height = 18 in External Width = 44 in External Depth = 30.75 in Port Width = 8 3/4 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2 x Top & Bottom (3 parts) = 44 x 30 3/4 Left & Right Sides = 29 1/4 x 15 3/4 2x Front = 17 5/8 x 15 3/4 Back = 44 x 15 3/4 Shared Port Internal Assembly Parts: 2 x Front to Back = 18 3/4 x 15 3/4 45s are 3" wide, the box gives you an upgrade path if you decided to upgrade.

If you don't do the 45s, which you can, is fairly simple, Home Depot can do all cuts but the cuts in the baffle which can be done with a cheap jigsaw.

Ok here is a suggestion: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 34 Hz Vb = 3.82 ft^3 External Height = 16 in External Width = 42 in External Depth = 16 in Port Width = 3 1/2 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Top & Bottom = 42 x 16 Left & Right Sides = 14 1/2 x 14 1/2 Front & Back = 42 x 14 1/2 Shared Port Internal Assembly Parts: 2 x Top to Bottom = 12 3/4 x 14 1/2 2 x Extension = 6 3/8 x 14 1/2 Let me know any questions.

Here is a suggestion for a single Fi Q 12": Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 32 Hz Vb = 2 ft^3 External Height = 14 in External Width = 31 in External Depth = 16 in Port Width = 2 1/2 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 31 x 14 Left & Right Sides = 13 3/4 x 12 1/2 Top & Bottom = 31 x 13 3/4 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 11 1/4 x 12 1/2 Extension = 19 1/4 x 12 1/2 Let me know any questions.

Not necessary, just try to round or slant a bit the port corner if possible.

Here is a suggestion for your IVX15: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 34 Hz Vb = 3.5 ft^3 External Height = 16 in External Width = 37 in External Depth = 17 in Port Width = 3 3/8 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front = 32 7/8 x 14 1/2 Back = 37 x 14 1/2 Left & Right Sides: Side 1 = 15 1/2 x 14 1/2 Side 2 = 16 1/4 x 14 1/2 Top & Bottom = 37 x 17 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 12 1/8 x 14 1/2 Extension = 8 x 14 1/2 Let me know any questions.

Nice so you are keeping the back seats up and you are 17" deep.. that the plan right?

just a shot from the back hatch open, yours or a link of something exactly like it.

Do you have a pic of the vehicle's interior?

Post the max dims for the box, subs up / port back will get you better results than port/subs up.

Ok here is a suggestion for the Alpine SWR-1043D, port centerline length is 23 3/4", sub displacement 0.08 cubic feet, port/subs firing front/back: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 34.5 Hz Vb = 3 ft^3 External Height = 14 in External Width = 34.5 in External Depth = 18 in Port Width = 3 1/4 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2x Front = 15 1/4 x 12 1/2 Back = 34 1/2 x 12 1/2 Left & Right Sides: 16 1/2 x 12 1/2 Top & Bottom = 34 1/2 x 18 Shared Port Internal Assembly Parts: 2 x Front to Back = 14 7/8 x 12 1/2 2 x Extension = 4 15/16 x 12 1/2 Set your subsonic filter to about 28Hz. Any changes let me know.

Just found the specs of the TXX- BC15 and calls for 3.5-4 cubes per sub and therefore you would be short on space. (look for TXX_Series.pdf) I would get a couple of finer 12s instead or 15s that fit small boxes like the Sundown Zv315.

There's a big chunk of your problem, cover the hole for the second sub with some wood making sure it becomes air tight ( or get a second sub ). Still a proper ported enclosure would be much louder

You can give them a call + who says WinISD won't run on windows 7.

That would likely turn out bad.

So what music do you listen and what vehicle do you have.

Dont know why you say that of your current box, I asked you this a while back (above). "Post the size (external dimensions and port dimensions if it's a ported design) of the box you have now," I think 750 W a piece is doable but the box has to be calculated.

A single 12" in an Explorer is not going to break windows anyway, since you already have it I would try it in a 1.5 cubes net @35Hz sub up /port back box, subsonic filter at 29Hz and it will get better.