alaskanzx5

Correct gains settings only help with keeping heat down. Its box design that helps with mechanical issues. 3 things you will learn quickly from this forum. 1. Research like crazy 2. Set gains correctly 3. Have good electrical oh and so far good start for a new member. Don't piss of the mods and you will learn a lot here.

Yes it will but as a newer person to the car audio game experience is key when over powering.

I agree with this but what from what I know is that those amps are suppose to do close to rated. 2k per t2d415 is a little much imo. They like power and all but I have also burnt a t2d415 on a t1500.1bdcp when I was new to this still. I clipped the hell out of it for 3months before it started smelling. Popped my hatch door and out came rolling smoke. Took me weeks to get that smell out the car. op, your new. Before pushing subs past their limits get some exp under your belt. Give them rated and experiment with box building.

Don't do it. I wouldn't push them past 1800 in the right box with clean power. they are great subs I personally have 2 of them and they can handle a t1500.1bdcp each or a t2500.1bdcp fine but that's only between 1500-1800watts each. I've had one of mine on my t1500.1bdcp at 2ohms and it didn't have a problem with the power. give them between 3-3.5cuft each net with 100-130" of port roughly on 1200-1800watts each and you will be more then happy with them.

I'm gonna have to get a set of the t3 when my wife gets a car. She likes sq and those t3 will do it. the more people I see on here with them the more I want to get a set just to play with actualy

Dealers are real good at getting warranty for you usually. like I said at 1ohm those amps on music won't put out the birth sheet numbers. Bdcp amps are fairly well efficient amp so on music you will be closer the rms (1500 not the birth sheet number) then other amps. I would be surprised if those subs saw more then 1400 on music with voltage above 13v. Simple truth there is that no amp no matter what will not produce rated power on music. at 2ohms I doubt on music the sub would see more then 1300watts. At 4 ohms they wouldn't see more then 900-1k on music. single t2d415 @ 2ohm didn't get hot or smell in a 3.5cuft box roughly 50" port area. Voltage was staying above 11.9v burping on music for 30-40min at a time voltage would stay above 12.2v and it was still cool to the touch. Had that setup a year ago playing for 2months. Pulled the sub out brand new looking coil still no smell. Suspension as stiff feeling as the brand new one I had sitting there that never saw power. No break in period on any of my subs either. Either they will take it or not.

You have to excuse Kyle here, what he means is that because it's you touching the knobs, that is the problem. Anyone else operating your system wouldn't blow the subs. lol, scaring away noobs again... its the fact you haven't learned enough yet. your lack of knowledge makes you ignorant. if you choose not to learn it makes you stupid someone needs to post a link for the clipping vids by Tony. op google search smd forum tool map. Should find a thread with a link to a google map that shows people world wide with tools that will help you set everything up correctly. If you find a term lab in your area get on it and let me know how you do. edit pending where/how you got your music it might be clipping as well. You can't beat the quality of a cd, iTunes and other stores a like are good but not cd quality good. YouTube, free to download, and even some music bought at stores on cds can be boosted/clipping which will only increase the issues.

Melted/deformed dustcap is from getting to hot. That's clipping. How much space between the magnet and box? Needs space to vent through the pole piece. don't listen to birthsheets, you won't see those numbers on music. Takes just the right freq and box. As the speaker moves impedance changes and so does the power you see. those amp draw 100amps on average playing music. That gives you up to roughly 1400 watts before effiency is accounted for with bo voltage drop. voltage drop can induce clipping to by the way.

Those subs can take the power, the issue is clipping. make sure all bass boost is off, that amp has a non adjustable sub sonic if I remember right (haven't seen mine in months), that tells me you turned the gain up 1/4 or the bass boost on the amp up 1/4. The remote for those amps is a bass boost. find someone in your area with a dd1 or oscope. Untill then keep the gain all the way down and be nice on the volume. You don't know where the deck clips so play it safe. I had a single t2d412 wired to 2ohms clipping like crazy (half gain full volume bass boost) that lasted for like 2 months. Warranted and I read up on clipping. Gain all the way down playing nice with volume no boost sub still felt, sounded, and could looked brand new never smelled at all for the 6 months I had it. you having yours at 1ohm they ser roughly 800-1200 on music at average. They will see up to the 1500rated rms of the amp maybe slightly more from time to time but on music they won't see the birth sheet number.

14.5" would be enough. Mounting diameter is just bellow 12 and the trim ring is roughly 13". If I remember right at least. I went from 2 t1 10 to 1 t2 12 was louder with out a doubt. The single 12 never saw a meter on my p500.1bd but on a t300.2 it did just over a 140. Had it on a t1500.1bdcp at 2 ohms for like 6 months no problem. Did 143ish. Then upgraded to 2 of the 12s on the same 1500 and gained some from that to. so yes a single ported 12 can be louder then 2 10s ported. 2 10s in a 3-4cuft box should work out nicely.

RF can be beat for the price aren't that worth it unless you can get them at luke buy one get one free (how I got mine) live had 2 t1 10 on 500rms ported and was very happy with them just got used to it is all. another good option is a single 12ported maybe a single 15 ported.

Diablo 3 is fun. Haven't played that in forever either though.

I have from time to time with my brother. Haven't in months though. Honestly don't remember my login info right now even.

It won't hurt to under power them.

Go for it. After its all done and installed start saving for a good alt and upgraded stock batt. Once you get the electrical up get a second amp for them and give them hell. its a great starting point just upgrade from there.

I've had that issue with ie for a while now. I just use chrome or fire fox now.

Yeah my hatch door on my last car had a huge open area between the inner and outer metal filling that area helped a lot but I think most of that was sure to all the added weight.

A will be waiting. You just sit back and heal up

IMO using expanding foam in areas like the trunk loud (added weight/mass) and to the roof support braces/beams can effectively stop rattles/flex with the use of less deadener.

Consider using expanding foam in gaps? I did it in the hatch door of my other focus and it made a good difference as far as vibrations him flex go. If the goal is to reduce flex start with adding some where you have lots if flex them looking for more rattles it flex to fix. Once you think you have most of that taking care of work on using the foam passing stuff to block airborne Boise. Do it all in steps to get the result you want.

this build is looking promising. 1400watts on 2 15s, cant wait to see all 4 up and running with those 9k's. just remember all good things take time. nothing that is good comes easy or quick and everything that is easy and quick just aint worth it.

I would have tried to come around and throw a home made spike strip in front of their truck before they got back to it. watch them pull away and blow out all their tires.