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Found 18 results

  1. If you are having all kinds of trouble finding the full spec sheet for the dc line of subs (level 6 in particular) you can strike gold at Sky High Car Audio.
  2. Hey guys, im making a box for home theater purposes, and since it has a 0.51 qts, im thinking about 15-16 cubic feet after displacement, tuned to 15, 20 or 25 hz. What do you think for tuning? for home stuff, i was told big enclosures and super low tuning [like, under 25 hz] Edit: im doing a slot port
  3. If your into Sundown audio then this video should definitely hold your attention.. Actually, if your into car audio just the slightest bit, this video will do wonders for you. Filmed and edited by myself. This is Dennis Romasco's Isuzu with a badass 4th order inside. Watch VIDEO Comment Like SHARE and subscribe=]
  4. Aye guys so I just replaced my wall in my tahoe that had 6 Kicker Cvrs 12s to 6 Funky Pup 12s. I'm hoping to hit a 160 on music. But what kind of wire should I run to the subs? I have it all hooked up to 3 DC 5ks with 1/0 gauge wire. I'm thinking ill run 2 gauge wire to the Funky Pups or do you think I need bigger wire for them or not? Thanks for the help!
  5. So me and my dad are thinking of doing a project, were looking at a single 10" woofer in a home made enclosure but we don't know how big to make the ports or the box... I rember seeing a size guide somewhere but I can't find it... Thanks!
  6. If I have a 1000 watt DVC 2 Ohm per coil sub, and I want to run it at 2 Ohms, so I just connect one coil, should I half the rms since I'm running 1 coil? I mean, is a 1000 watt rms DVC sub really 500 watts rms a coil?
  7. Ok, so I got a JBL GT5-15 for my birthday ( ) and I'd someone to design me a box to build for it. I found the sub on Sonic Electronix: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16026_JBL-GT5-15.html I went and measured my trunk and the dimensions are as follows: Total depth I'm willing to give up (front to back): 21in, or less Width I'm willing to work with: 38in, or less Height in the front of the trunk: 14in straight up & down, the 15in sub fits at a slant Height in the back half of the trunk: 17.5 (The front half and the back half of my trunk are two different heights for some reason...) I'm not even sure whether I would like to do ported or sealed, but if you suggest ported, I have some 4in diameter PVC tubing that I could use as a port if need be. It's going in my dodge intrepid if you for some reason need to know Thanks!!!
  8. This isn't a Vs. thing, more like me asking to lean on your experience since I have no good way to really test these drivers, no where that I know of in MO carries these brands.. So I have my front doors and install finished and perfected, but my speakers are a little weakers than I would dance for, so I am using some tax monies to try to fix that prob and I want your allses helps! I run a 3 way active and have a mini DSP 6x8 on the way and a sub about to be installed, so consider it a 4-way active system I guess, and its in a single cab 2006 Silverado 1500 truck. I am currently running Jl audio CS200 2 way component tweeters and 6.5s (I am going to replace the tweeters soon too) and dayton audio 3s in the doors. I run midbass something like 125hz - 300hz, possibly as high as 600hz sometimes, I've been toying back and forth. The thump is ok, but I want it louder, with more power handling and more chest rattling thump, the closer I can get to take my breath away the better. I am running a Jl audio 360/2 to the midbass, but I am considering also getting an amp for the midbass that has 200w per channel and better signal to noise ratio, because the 360/2 kinda sucks there. I am leaning towards a pair of CDT-ES06+s on a Jl audio rd400v3, but I want your suggestions! My budget is something like 600 absolute max, 400 would be preferred. Thanks in advance!
  9. Just to start this off I can't give any measurements because i'm not getting this truck for a few weeks. Anyways its a 1980 Chevy single cab short box step-side. Id love to put some woofers under the seats or behind them. I don't have anything but my Audiopipe 1800.1 amp. I plan on doing some custom doors and whatnot but if anyone has any ideas for what I should do for woofers cause I have no idea. Maybe even flat woofers? Just throw out what you think and that would be great! Oh and for pricing imma build a box i'm guessing but for overall woofer cost I would love to stay around $400. Any amount of woofers will do!
  10. http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/mrp-m1000 here is my amp , which sub should i buy because i dunt know about impedence and ohm much , http://www.kicker.com/11S15L74 4 ohm is compatible with my amp OR 2 ohm is compatible http://www.kicker.com/11S15L72 , please tell me thanks ! Help would be appreciated
  11. Hello I have a 2005 buick rainier with stock Bose sound system in it , I just recently had a sub and amp installed with a bass control knob in the dash and I feel like it could pound harder when I crank up the bass it does not pound as hard as I thought it would I have a kentwood excelon x500-1 1000w amp powering a hertz ebx 250 700w hertz 10" subwoofer Amp settings bass boost level goes from 0 to 18 db Lpf 50 to 200. Input sensitivity min 5 to 0.2 max I would like to know if I can crank up the amp without damaging my sub and if anyone has any settings They recommend that would be awesome Thanks so much Christopher
  12. I recently upgraded my audio system - added 4 channel amp for door speakers, subamp for subwoofer. Work is complete. Now i have to set the gains on the amp. I'm trying to see if anyone might be willing to let me use their dd-1. Thanks,
  13. Hi all , on our profiles it says members title for example my'n says 120db How does this increase to 125 , 130 etc etc Thanks
  14. Looking to build an enclosure with a 21 inch subwoofer for my room. Already have the Polk Audio Psw10 10 inch woofer for strong punchy bass but, I want a extremely low end punch which sadly, the 10 inch driver will not provide. Probably going to build a 14 foot or so cubic feet enclosure for a 21 inch subwoofer. Then probably buy a lanzar 2000 watt amp or something to power it. Any suggestions on if I should even spend the $155 for the project or should I just ditch the idea. The item number is PYLE-PRO PDW21250 (Pic of the sub below)
  15. So I'm putting a bunch of gear from my last system into a 2 door Toyota Starlet hatch, and I'm now unsure about the placement of the woofers and midbass. The speakers that are going to go in it are: x4 older model DD w6.5s x2 DD c6.5s used as mid/woofers x2 DLS 2.5" dome mids x2 DD tweeters from the c6.5 set The last 3 items will be on DLS 3-way crossovers, the stuff sounds quite good together with the tweeter wired out of phase and the woofers high passed at like 120-150hz kinda range. The w6.5s were amped separately picking up where the c6.5s left off down to about 70hz. I'm yet to decide on a sub, I'll either make do with something I have or try borrow something off someone. Hopefully I can get hold of a spare 9510 or something. Anyway the mids and tweeters are going in pods on the A pillar so that is sorted. I'm just not too sure what to do with all the 6.5"s now. The original idea was to glass the c6.5s in the front doors and glass the w6.5s in these little recesses by the back seats. But now I'm wondering if that'll kinda ruin the imaging. But as impressive as 3 6.5"s in each front door would look I'm not sure if there is enough room because the doors aren't too thick, and the windows aren't electric so there needs to be room for the winding handle. Also I don't know which would give the w6.5s the best airspace, the little recess in the back has a little pocket which looks as though it can be popped out and then it should have a lot of room behind it. I took a bunch of pictures, sorry there isn't really anything to show scale, but that recess in the back is about 6.5" tall and 14"ish long and the doors will definitely fit a single 6.5" toward the front of them. So what do you guys think I should do? w6.5s in the back ok since they aren't playing too high? Try squeeze everything in doors? (not sure if possible)
  16. This is my first sketch-up so I realize it's not even close to scale, but hope you get the idea for what I am trying to achieve. I originally wanted an 18" in the trunk of my car, but looking at the sketch I made, it would be a tight fit, probably impossible depending on the port width that I'd need. I may end up with a 15". If I could fit an 18", then I'm looking at the Obsidian 18 D2 to hold me over until the SD X series pre-order. Enclosure recommendations for the 18 D2 are ~ 4.5 to 6 ft^3 @ 28 to 32 Hz. Also looking at the SSX 18 which has their ported enclosure recommendations as ~4.0 ft^3 @31Hz, 50 sq.in port, 21.5" long. I don't know what the enclosure specs will be for whenever the X-18 is released, but I want to use the same box. If I can't fit an 18" then I'll go with a 15". I don't really care about volume, I want to hit way down low, so I want the most amount of cone area that will sound good in the space that I have available. Anyways, I want port towards the front of the car, sub facing up. Car has a ski pass through that I want the port to fire through, and want the sub facing up to fire through the vented rear shelf of my car where I removed the stock "woofer" deck enclosures. I'd like the box to be tuned at 32Hz, and I have 33" x 20" x 16" to work with. Does this idea sound/look good, or does anyone have any other ideas? Also, I realize the port may not need to be long enough to "L" inside the box since it's essentially two internal ports(?), but can someone tell me how long that piece of wood needs to be for a 32Hz tune? Having a hard time with Torres calculator because of the port. Thanks in advance.
  17. Alright I just have a quick homo audio question. Is there any cheap quick way I can hook up a pair of Kenwood 10s that I have in my car, to my home speakers? I dont have anything special at home what so ever so I thought I would add a few subs. I have a 1000 watt amp hooked up to it now. Thanks.
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