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Found 11 results

  1. Hey guys, im making a box for home theater purposes, and since it has a 0.51 qts, im thinking about 15-16 cubic feet after displacement, tuned to 15, 20 or 25 hz. What do you think for tuning? for home stuff, i was told big enclosures and super low tuning [like, under 25 hz] Edit: im doing a slot port
  2. So me and my dad are thinking of doing a project, were looking at a single 10" woofer in a home made enclosure but we don't know how big to make the ports or the box... I rember seeing a size guide somewhere but I can't find it... Thanks!
  3. This isn't a Vs. thing, more like me asking to lean on your experience since I have no good way to really test these drivers, no where that I know of in MO carries these brands.. So I have my front doors and install finished and perfected, but my speakers are a little weakers than I would dance for, so I am using some tax monies to try to fix that prob and I want your allses helps! I run a 3 way active and have a mini DSP 6x8 on the way and a sub about to be installed, so consider it a 4-way active system I guess, and its in a single cab 2006 Silverado 1500 truck. I am currently running Jl audio CS200 2 way component tweeters and 6.5s (I am going to replace the tweeters soon too) and dayton audio 3s in the doors. I run midbass something like 125hz - 300hz, possibly as high as 600hz sometimes, I've been toying back and forth. The thump is ok, but I want it louder, with more power handling and more chest rattling thump, the closer I can get to take my breath away the better. I am running a Jl audio 360/2 to the midbass, but I am considering also getting an amp for the midbass that has 200w per channel and better signal to noise ratio, because the 360/2 kinda sucks there. I am leaning towards a pair of CDT-ES06+s on a Jl audio rd400v3, but I want your suggestions! My budget is something like 600 absolute max, 400 would be preferred. Thanks in advance!
  4. Just to start this off I can't give any measurements because i'm not getting this truck for a few weeks. Anyways its a 1980 Chevy single cab short box step-side. Id love to put some woofers under the seats or behind them. I don't have anything but my Audiopipe 1800.1 amp. I plan on doing some custom doors and whatnot but if anyone has any ideas for what I should do for woofers cause I have no idea. Maybe even flat woofers? Just throw out what you think and that would be great! Oh and for pricing imma build a box i'm guessing but for overall woofer cost I would love to stay around $400. Any amount of woofers will do!
  5. http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/mrp-m1000 here is my amp , which sub should i buy because i dunt know about impedence and ohm much , http://www.kicker.com/11S15L74 4 ohm is compatible with my amp OR 2 ohm is compatible http://www.kicker.com/11S15L72 , please tell me thanks ! Help would be appreciated
  6. Hello I have a 2005 buick rainier with stock Bose sound system in it , I just recently had a sub and amp installed with a bass control knob in the dash and I feel like it could pound harder when I crank up the bass it does not pound as hard as I thought it would I have a kentwood excelon x500-1 1000w amp powering a hertz ebx 250 700w hertz 10" subwoofer Amp settings bass boost level goes from 0 to 18 db Lpf 50 to 200. Input sensitivity min 5 to 0.2 max I would like to know if I can crank up the amp without damaging my sub and if anyone has any settings They recommend that would be awesome Thanks so much Christopher
  7. I recently upgraded my audio system - added 4 channel amp for door speakers, subamp for subwoofer. Work is complete. Now i have to set the gains on the amp. I'm trying to see if anyone might be willing to let me use their dd-1. Thanks,
  8. Hi all , on our profiles it says members title for example my'n says 120db How does this increase to 125 , 130 etc etc Thanks
  9. Looking to build an enclosure with a 21 inch subwoofer for my room. Already have the Polk Audio Psw10 10 inch woofer for strong punchy bass but, I want a extremely low end punch which sadly, the 10 inch driver will not provide. Probably going to build a 14 foot or so cubic feet enclosure for a 21 inch subwoofer. Then probably buy a lanzar 2000 watt amp or something to power it. Any suggestions on if I should even spend the $155 for the project or should I just ditch the idea. The item number is PYLE-PRO PDW21250 (Pic of the sub below)
  10. If you are having all kinds of trouble finding the full spec sheet for the dc line of subs (level 6 in particular) you can strike gold at Sky High Car Audio.
  11. So I'm putting a bunch of gear from my last system into a 2 door Toyota Starlet hatch, and I'm now unsure about the placement of the woofers and midbass. The speakers that are going to go in it are: x4 older model DD w6.5s x2 DD c6.5s used as mid/woofers x2 DLS 2.5" dome mids x2 DD tweeters from the c6.5 set The last 3 items will be on DLS 3-way crossovers, the stuff sounds quite good together with the tweeter wired out of phase and the woofers high passed at like 120-150hz kinda range. The w6.5s were amped separately picking up where the c6.5s left off down to about 70hz. I'm yet to decide on a sub, I'll either make do with something I have or try borrow something off someone. Hopefully I can get hold of a spare 9510 or something. Anyway the mids and tweeters are going in pods on the A pillar so that is sorted. I'm just not too sure what to do with all the 6.5"s now. The original idea was to glass the c6.5s in the front doors and glass the w6.5s in these little recesses by the back seats. But now I'm wondering if that'll kinda ruin the imaging. But as impressive as 3 6.5"s in each front door would look I'm not sure if there is enough room because the doors aren't too thick, and the windows aren't electric so there needs to be room for the winding handle. Also I don't know which would give the w6.5s the best airspace, the little recess in the back has a little pocket which looks as though it can be popped out and then it should have a lot of room behind it. I took a bunch of pictures, sorry there isn't really anything to show scale, but that recess in the back is about 6.5" tall and 14"ish long and the doors will definitely fit a single 6.5" toward the front of them. So what do you guys think I should do? w6.5s in the back ok since they aren't playing too high? Try squeeze everything in doors? (not sure if possible)
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