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Posted

You can run it at a lower ohm load but only if your amps can handle that low of a load. Impedance rise changes with each frequency that your woofer reproduces. If you have a frequency that plays and the impedance rise is lower than the rating of the amplifier it can burn the amp out or throw it in protect. But either way you still have impedance rise, regardless of how low you wire the woofer up.

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

Posted
Quite simply you cannot. You can minimize the impact of imp rise but you can never truly get rid of it. Imp rise is one of the many evils of car audio you cant get rid of. lol.
This seems like the kinda thing to make a person go into a rage fit and punching holes in his/her box with a sledgie. :popcorn:

oh... you mean converting a sealed box into a ported one? 8)

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Posted

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Posted

Oh yes it is frustrating quite a bit because you cant really do a damn thing about it. lol. The only affect you can have on imp rise is the box size. The bigger the box the lower the impedance rise, the smaller the box, the higher the impedance rise. (note: i may have that backwards but im fairly certain how i said it was right). Imp rise was good for me since i didnt want to run my amps at .25 each so im kinda glad i have imp rise but im also mad i have it going up to 1.5 some odd ohms because i am losing quite a bit of power out of my amps because of it but w/e ill live on. My system is loud for me and tues ill find out how loud it truly is :D

Well this is good because my box is bigger than it really needs to be for two 10's!

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Posted

so what if my amp is 2ohm stable but i wire it down to 1 ohm due to rise is that ok?

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Posted

The higher your nominal load, the higher rise can be from what ive seen. Ive seen people wire down to .7 and rose to 1.2. The same guy wired to 2.8 ohm and rose to like 5 ohms. As for 2 ohm to one ohm, thats a big step. Bigger than from 1 ohm to .5 probably.

As for kickass I disagree. I want the most power I can get daily, not just competing. Imp rise is a bitch but it matters for daily groundpounding or hitting top numbers on the TL. I dont see how it 'only matters for competing' at all.

As for fighting it, as said you really cant. One way is using more/bigger wires to reduce the resistance. Same reason people use two smaller fuses vs one big fuse, or several smaller amps vs 1 big amp.

Posted

so what if my amp is 2ohm stable but i wire it down to 1 ohm due to rise is that ok?

mario, your system is the shit! I feel like you already know the answer to this question and are just testing to see if whoever responds knows what they are talking about... but im kinda drunk so who knows whats really going on lol

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Posted

so what if my amp is 2ohm stable but i wire it down to 1 ohm due to rise is that ok?

For burp of course depending on how the protection circuit of the amp responds. For daily would depend on other things.

To the OP, understand what a subwoofer is, it is a electromagnet motor. As you place a current onto a coil with magnetic force around it and alternate the current, you get movement, as the magnetic field changes and amount of current and temperature changes you change the resistance. This is physics. You can't change the laws of physics and electronics.

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Posted

tonedeaf: i didnt mean it as in if you are a daily beater screw imp rise. I am a daily beater and i cared about it a lot when i made my new system. I just meant it as in most ppl who are daily beaters dont take the time to care about this or want to care about it or even know it exists. Also you are correct in that the higher you wire your speakers, the higher your final imp load will be. When i was screwing with my SMD to figure out my imp rise, i had it wired at 2 ohms and .5 ohms nominal. When it was at 2 ohms nominal, i had an average imp rise of 6.705 ohms. When i took the very same woofer, amps, etc and wired it to .5 nominal, i had an average imp rise of 1.4845 ohms. So you can see i had a difference of 5.2205 ohms between the two different wiring schemes. Everything stayed the same but i just changed instead of wiring the sub in series for a 2 ohm nominal load, i wired it in parallel for a .5 ohm nominal load.

Mario: the ONLY time i would do that is if you are certain you dont get any tone that can be reproduced that will fall below that 2 ohm zone then you should be fine. Dont quote me on it since my amps im using are made to handle .5 ohms each daily and 1 ohm strapped. I do have them strapped at .5 nominal when it is supposed to be 1 ohm nominal but i wouldnt tell any everyday guy to do this without knowing what they are doing or having the electrical to back it up. Its kinda like Meade, just because he throws a shit ton of power at his SMD's doesnt mean everyone in the world can do it and not burn a coil or amp in the process. If it was me, i would just try it like i did with my current system i finished making. I had it wired at 2 ohms nominal for 2 days to see how warm the sub would get (hahaha, that damn smd doesnt get any warmth except a small amount on the dust cap), then i wired it down to .5 ohms nominal to see if the amps could take it. The amps worked perfect in both wiring methods but as you can obviously guess i had way more power at .5 ohms and my imp rise was not half as high as with me wired to 2 ohms. When i wired it to .5 ohms nominal i kept checking on the sub and amp to see if any of them were getting hot or anything. I never had either of them get hot (except for the warmth i had in my truck from it sitting with the windows up in the sun which wasnt a lot of warmth on them). I didnt clamp how much current im drawing but it is a decent amount from those sub amps since when im at a full stop, my rpm goes up and down with the load on my alt unless i rev the engine a little past 1000.

The only time i would do what you are talking about is if you have the proper tools to find out your true impedance rise, the knowledge of how to wire everything up correctly, a knowledge of how to check everything and make sure its setup properly to not smoke anything, and the electrical since your amp will draw more current the lower you wire it at.

When i was originally screwing with my setup the first day i had it in, i had the SMD wired at .5 nominal and when i turned up the volume, it got loud and then for some odd reason it kept going into protect. I checked the voltage and everything was fine, i just figured it was that i wired the amp at .5 ohms bridged when it is made to run at 1 ohms bridged. But then talking to my friend on here (CJ18) we figured the amp shouldnt protect since it can handle .5 daily, it should be able to handle it strapped as well with no problems. So after 2 days of keeping it at 2 ohms nominal, i decided to try wiring it to .5 nominal for shits and giggles. This time i played the exact same song that sent the amps in protect and it never protected. I played even heavier hitting songs and still never went into protect. To this very day i am not sure what caused the amps to protect the first time i had them wired at .5 ohms but it works fine at .5 ohms and ive had the system in for over a week now.

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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