BEEMDUB Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Hey guys so I've been getting really fed up lately with having to take my wood to places to be cut.. I like doing things myself and I'm trying to work my way to a table saw, but until I can get one I was wondering how good of cuts a rip guide type straight edge would provide me and if they are good what one should I get? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 CJ18 has a bad ass one. for full sheets i use a circular. I do almost all of my work by myself so trying to feed it across a table saw not built into a table designed for it would be a problem. smaller cuts. I use the table saw. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Straight edge with clamps and circular saw. Just triple check all your measurements. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEEMDUB Posted February 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 CJ18 has a bad ass one. for full sheets i use a circular. I do almost all of my work by myself so trying to feed it across a table saw not built into a table designed for it would be a problem. smaller cuts. I use the table saw. Yea I've been getting better at cutting with the circular saw but my cuts still for sure aren't perfect.. Straight edge with clamps and circular saw. Just triple check all your measurements. I actually tried that the other day but I ran into one problem...Since the saw wasn't connected to the straight edge I found it too easy to wander ever so slightly away from the straight edge I figure the only way to fix that is too buy one that does attach to the saw unless there's anyway I can make a homemade version of that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 ive used clamps and a straight edge you just have to make sure you are clamped tight and pushing the saw slightly towards the straight edge. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Just takes practice man. Blue has cut my last 3 boxes like that, and all the pieces fit perfect. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
727Designs Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Like Nate said earlier, bigger sections circular saw and I use a piece of 1/8" thick aluminum flat bar and c-clamps for a straight edge. Smaller cuts, 45*'s, etc I do with the tablesaw. -Zach-2010 Toyota TundraFull Hybrid Audio SQ 7" BDS on 37's 2000 Ford Expedition 160+ dB Green Turd -SOLD- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbdblue Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Im sure there must be cheaper versions, but I know Festool makes a circular saw that runs along a track. But anyone whose heard of Festool knows how much your gonna spend on there tools. Ive used a piece of aluminum L bracket before, but like you said the saw could still wander. the more you practice with it the better you'll get. AA-Atomic-Clif Designs-DC-Diamond-Digital Designs-Directed-Eclipse-Fi-Hertz-Hifonics-Kenwood-Memphis-Phoenix Gold-Pioneer-PPI-PSi-Stinger-Sundown-TC Sounds-Viper-Zapco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingsuv Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 When I used my cir saw to rip down sheets I used a piece of c rown moulding. It was raised on on side just enough to hold the saw plate in tight. made for a good cut line. Also make sure you have a good saw. I used a buddys cheap one on day and notices blade walk bad on it. You can pick a good used Mag 77 at a pawn shop for less then a cheap new one at a parts house. Not everyone has a panel saw or a 5x12 table to flop full sheets on like I do Designing, building, and shipping boxes. Yahoo IM - kingsuv00If the listening level is too loud, please inform the driver, so he can promptly pull over, and let you out. not many cars can get me to pluggin my ears but this one.......damn. I mean the first minute is ok but that thing just really starts digging deeper and deeper in your earhole till you cant stand it no more. Seems like it does it with relative ease....16 12's on 8 amps.........gotta love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 You also need to get a blade that is designed for the material you're cutting also. I had an old ass blade on my saw for the longest time. It would 'walk' on me all the time and have to re-cut a lot of pieces. But once I got a proper blade for the material I am cutting, it goes through it like butter and there is no 'walk'. formerly known as Blue86f150 its a 4th order just because its tuned in the 40z doesnt mean it wont reach down and jiggle your balls at sub 30 hz frequencies. Regardless if they were dipped platinum and were stuffed in Beyonce's twat.....way too fucking exspensive this sux camel dicks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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