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skittlesRgood

the ultimate answer on solder vs crimp

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I used to solder the large wires until i had one loosen up on the alt output shaft and melted and allowed the wire to come out of the lug, so from that point on i will crimp the lug and solder the terminal to prevent any corrosion.

EDIT: M6 bolts suck ass for an output shaft on an alt.

Edited by Skullz

01 Ford focus ZX3

Pioneer AVH-X491BHS

PPI PC 4800.2

Morel Maximo 6.5" x2

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I used to solder the large wires until i had one loosen up on the alt output shaft and melted and allowed the wire to come out of the lug, so from that point on i will crimp the lug and solder the terminal to prevent any corrosion.

EDIT: M6 bolts suck ass for an output shaft on an alt.

wow, i never even heard of something like that happening.

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I used to solder the large wires until i had one loosen up on the alt output shaft and melted and allowed the wire to come out of the lug, so from that point on i will crimp the lug and solder the terminal to prevent any corrosion.

EDIT: M6 bolts suck ass for an output shaft on an alt.

Did you perchance cut the joint open? I'm curious to see what it looks like.

What wire and what lugs did you use? Don't need specific brands

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The bolt size that holds the ring terminal down does not matter, large charge studs, small charge studs dont matter.

Same thing goes for batteries as well, m6 or 1/4inch terminal bolts are irrelevant.

What matters is the surface area to what the ring terminal is being bolted down on to.

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Some things to consider about soldering power leads....

- Hydrogen embrittlement can occur in copper at as low as 300*F. Most soldering irons are hotter than this. Propane or butane are waaaaaay hotter than this. And the hotter it is...the worse the embrittlement.

- The composition of most solder has 5x more resistance than copper

- solder past the lug can lead to a weak/brittle joint

Something to consider about crimping...

- you have to buy or borrow a crimper.

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Some things to consider about soldering power leads....

- Hydrogen embrittlement can occur in copper at as low as 300*F. Most soldering irons are hotter than this. Propane or butane are waaaaaay hotter than this. And the hotter it is...the worse the embrittlement.

- The composition of most solder has 5x more resistance than copper

- solder past the lug can lead to a weak/brittle joint

Something to consider about crimping...

- you have to buy or borrow a crimper.

Ahem....

http://youtu.be/nJoEFZpsKKo

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/198947-attn-snowdrifter/?fromsearch=1

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Some things to consider about soldering power leads....

- Hydrogen embrittlement can occur in copper at as low as 300*F. Most soldering irons are hotter than this. Propane or butane are waaaaaay hotter than this. And the hotter it is...the worse the embrittlement.

- The composition of most solder has 5x more resistance than copper

- solder past the lug can lead to a weak/brittle joint

Something to consider about crimping...

- you have to buy or borrow a crimper.

Or a high powered trailer hitch.

Ahem....

http://youtu.be/nJoEFZpsKKo

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/198947-attn-snowdrifter/?fromsearch=1

But in all seriousness with promper crimpers for small and large guage wire crimping is always better..... A crimp is much much more consistant, if you have PROPER crimpers for small and large guage wire

I would never never solder my larger guage wires, just asking for trouble! That is why you never catch electric motors not crimped, even more so in high power and voltage situation, where heat can be an issue

And fixed taylors comment for validity

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My best investment for car audio was hydraulic crimpers. Perfect crimp every time.

Edited by miniSPLlancer

2011 Mitsubishi Outlander
Sony 712

Soundqubed HDS208

Alpine MRV-M500

Transmission line enclosure

Soundqubed wiring

Knu rca

XS Power battery

CNF terminals

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M6 will not have the holding power an m8 stud will have, but when you have worn out motor mounts that allow the engine to rock much farther than an engine with new mounts, it can help loosen the terminal enough to cause resistance and excessive heat to build up to the point the solder fails and the wire falls out. For all i know it may have been even smaller than an m6 stud as it eventually snapped off requiring another alt to replace it. All i am saying is i prefer to crimp all my connections now instead of soldering them.


01 Ford focus ZX3

Pioneer AVH-X491BHS

PPI PC 4800.2

Morel Maximo 6.5" x2

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To be honest I have a hard time believing the charging stud on any alternator is a m6.

You should also have some slack in your power cables as well, and if you did a m6 bolt should have no problem holding more than adequate pressure on some ring terminals, unless your literally trying to tow the damn vehicle by the wires attached to said m6 bolt.

All xs power batteries use a m6 bolt, and have zero issue.

Actually battery performance has risen compared to their old d3100s with the 1/4inch bolt that had a 3200 max amp, to the new d3100s with 5000 max amps (of coarse max amps dont mean shit, but overall specs are better).

The bolt is irrelevant, and no matter what size it is over tightening it will just cause you to snap the lead busbars inside of the battery potentially.


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