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DAMN !!! This is how its done guys ... excellent enclosure build and attachment to the vehicle for maximum performance !!!

Makes me want to get back to work on mine ...

Awesome ...

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Nice work this thing is going to kill when your all done.

XS Power D5100, 2 D2700s, & 2 D975s

MechMan 220a Alt

DC 5K

Kicker 650.4

2 12 Ascendant Audio Mayhem's

Pioneer DEH-P7200HD

Rockford Fosgate 3sity.1

Build log: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/166792-88-nissan-maxima-trunk-build/#entry2430899

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/191439-lexus-is300-fi-crescendo-shca-rf-pics/

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Yes, both positives and grounds are straight from the alternator to the rear of the car. Also a ground from the alt to the chassis in the front, and a ground from the rear batteries to the chassis in the rear to beef up factory grounds. Stock battery is gutted from the rear. and the fuse box is "in the process of being relocated to the side of the box. As for the stock alt being regulated by the pcm.. No idea, still a stock alt, but worked fine with the previous setup and no charging issues. If the PCM is restricting voltage its not too bad like everyone thinks. Your car doesnt need to charge at 15+ volts like everyone thinks is a must, its nice, but not needed, and the power increase from it is marginal at best.

Ah ok. Well like I said I haven't tested it out since all my equiptment hasn't arrived yet. But i did notice that when i ran the Alt wires .. the factory alt wire splits off into like 3 parts. Thanks for your insight.

BTW Did he decide to go ALL Sundown or where thoese just for testing :) Looks like it slammed either way.

The factory charge wire comes from the alt, splits off to goto the positive stud under the hood, the wire running to the back has a ring terminal and gets bolted to a bolt that goes thru a plastic bushing behind the front passenger side wheel well on the firewall (you have to remove the plastic inner fender skirt to see it) where you have another ring terminal and the wire that runs alone the passenger side of the car to the rear battery. (so I wouldnt run any RCA cables down the passenger side of the car). The plastic bushing is rather cheezy looking and feeling and wouldnt use this method for running power wire.

You can kinda see the bolt behind the inner fender skirt here. http://www.300cforums.com/forums/481106-post3.html

There is only really a ways to run wire in the chargers/magnums/300s (pretty much all the same vehicle.

You can use the factory method with how they do it thru the fire wall with a bolt surrounded in flimsy rubber/plastic to get your wires thru.

You can attempt to find a easy to reach spot to drill holes through and insert grommets

You can cut a slit in the large thick rubber grommet that is used for a bunch of factory wires (located on the passenger side fire wall). This is what I did, and resealed the surrounding grommet in some black RTV Copper (form a gasket stuff)

Once you have the wire on the inside of the car your limited to 2 ways to run the wire front to back (wise idea to keep power wires down the passenger side since this is also where your factory wire runs, so its best to keep the driver side open for signal cables).

You can run the wire along the transmission and driveshaft hump that runs the length of the car like I did

Or you can go thru the a/c and heat vents that run from the upper dash to under the front seats.

Paul is very picky, and does not like holes drilled in his car, and wants to keep anything factory related such as the heating and cooling vents. that go under the seats in working order, so that eliminated that idea which is what many do, due to the way the vehicle floor is theres no room to run a lot of wire, without having huge noticeable bulges in the carpet.

The sundown subs in the video are from his past box I did for him that cracked the metal the trunk latch was secured to a couple times. The car had 3 SA-12s powered by a Sundown 4500 @ .66 ohms with 2 NGT batteries in the rear plus stock battery and 1 run of pos and neg 1awg welding cable front to back. In the video it was just the 2 SA 12s powered by a 4500 @ 1 ohm. So its about 1/3 the power that will be used due to both 4500s will be at .35ohms. If impedence rise is kept minimal I see no reason for a solid 11,000-12,000 watts rms on the pair of BTL N3's.

Here is the old install and what not.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kdIPHOX5f4c&feature=plcp

 

 

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nice work bro..................................... :popcorn:

Thanks!!

I'm lovin this build. I also like how you're lettin everyone know you're strapped in the video;)

I like guns, fun/new hobby. :)

Looking at the youtube comments, it looks like you build boxes for pay? Is that your full time job?

Yes I build boxes, recone speakers, accent & HID lighting. I try to stay away from installing because the local shop in town is a close buddy and use to work there, and dont want to be taking cash out of their pockets, but at the same time, but any alarm work that people are wanting, and even some product I send them there. I hate doing alarms/remote starts, being fat and just hate being under the dash for a few hours upside down just doesn't excite me much...

It is my main source of disposable cash, and from time to time Im staying pretty busy, and have a bunch of other boxes Ive also been building through out this car being built. Its something I enjoy doing unlike working 40-60hours in a hot factory.

DAMN !!! This is how its done guys ... excellent enclosure build and attachment to the vehicle for maximum performance !!!

Makes me want to get back to work on mine ...

Awesome ...

thanks bro!! You should get to work on yours than!! LOL

Nice work this thing is going to kill when your all done.

I hope it does!! Its a lot of money spent on product and supplies just for a daily driver, but since I dont see my truck being rebuilt anytime soon I need something to build up and show some of my work off with :D

 

 

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This build is gonna be epic, actually, it's already epic and it's not even done.

I also like how you sealed off the box from the trunk using a combo of deadener, spray foam, and bondo, it's giving me ideas for if I ever get 2 12's.

2003 Kia Sorento

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2016 Rebuild Under Construction

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Sick ass build. That's some nice ass wood. None of that shitty cheap birch.

Now wheres the youtube video fugger? :P

My Channel on YouTube. Check it out for cinematic-style Car Audio videos.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCcSMhtT-rpopJbdybubDgnQ

 

New 2014 Scion TC 4th Wall Build

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/217173-2014-tc-4th-order-build-3-fi-sp4-15s/

 

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This build is gonna be epic, actually, it's already epic and it's not even done.

I also like how you sealed off the box from the trunk using a combo of deadener, spray foam, and bondo, it's giving me ideas for if I ever get 2 12's.

Epic is the goal :D

And its its more than just deadener, spray foam, and bondo.

The spray foam is for sealing the big voids, and make the contours I wanted after a rough shaping with a fillet knife and than sanded for smoothness.

Its than soaked in resin, layer in fiberglass cloth, than more resin, rough sanding, than chop mat and more resin, and than more sanding to get it level. After that it was all covered with bondo to fill in any large gaps and possible voids, or air pockets that came from the rough sanding. Followed by another coat of bondo to fill anything that may have been missed or reappeared after the past sanding of the bondo. Then it was finished up with a lighter weight body filler made by Cargroom (same brand resin I use because it comes sealed and never got a bad bottle unlike 3m bondo brand), just to fill in any small pinholes, or small divots that the bondo didnt catch.

Its was a bit of tedious time consuming work. Thankfully I made my buddy do all the rough sanding so he got his hands dirty a bit and can say he helped a lot with it, so he will also have that gratification of it once the car is done.

Sick ass build. That's some nice ass wood. None of that shitty cheap birch.

Now wheres the youtube video fugger? :P

Yea. very nice wood. its virtually void free, stronger, and denser than that cheaper non baltic birch plywood people buy for $35-45 a sheet.

Its the only wood I like using unless its mdf since you can make mdf look so clean!!

There are 2 videos, if your subbed to my channel you probably have already seen the cars old install which i reposted on page 1, and than there is a teaser bass video of the box banging before all the resin, bondo, foam etc.

I have some misc video clips from the build process, just havent uploaded them to my computer and still on my camera yet. LOL

 

 

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this is dope! were working on a 300c for a friend of mine i plan on sealing it off the same way!

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