rocking.that.eclipse Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 In for an answer to this also. Have the same problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlebuck1919 Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 in a practical way? probably not....weld it shut or weld some very heavy steel to the inside (so it'd still open, but itd be heavy as hell) that's just my .02 i guess Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/152368-littlebuck1919s-feedback/#entry2177586 i think you'd stick your dick in a blender if it told you it was 40 wtih two kids your age. lol 6/18/82 - 4/17/12 R.I.P. to my sister Shana Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 weld it shut THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALPINE408 Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 Good luck. The only real thing I've been told that will help is to run all thread from the hatch to the floor and use a tensioner in the middle to tighten down. But that's not practical for daily use. You have no idea how bad a hatch can actually flex Yup good luck with that my team mate joey did that threaded rod with turn buckle type lock downs but even with those tighted as much as he could at 28 hz would still flex like crazy and you can't open your hatch unless you take the turn buckels off from the inside yes it helped a lot but it was a pain in the ass when you wanted to open the back plus it still flexed Have you ever had your woofers blown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEEMDUB Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 take your system out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quakecitystudio Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 who's port is firing towards the hatch? Bass Music Producer • Photographer • Graphic Designer -------------- Deep Sector Boom... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlamminBeats Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 trunk car= face subs forward, seal off, be louder hatch back=deaden up the ass, deaden up the ass, and deaden up the ass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HunterJohnson Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 stop posting useless solutions please. What I have done so far Lowered the metal piece that holds the rear latch. (unscrew the two bolts and pushed it down) Damplified the whole trunk as much as I could inside the hatch and on the outer panels. Great Stuffed The WHOLE hatch except where the wires were FIberglassed the hatch panels to add weight and strength Does work WAY better but air still escapes. Scion tC SQ BuildiPad mini, lots of fabrication, daily drivenFord Explorer C Pillar Wall Build Just a cheap car to destroy with bass Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassface Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 You may be able to use butyl rope around the sealing edge, would stick it down, and also be removable if you had to. Butyl rope is like what older cars use to set windshields into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmmoJammo Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 the hatch on my wagon has the inner and outer skins deadened fairly heavily.... when that didn't help enough, I added a 9mm thick MDF panel under the trim panel, screwed with about 60 screws, plus silicone sealant... didn't help a whole lot.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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