Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Acetone if it's asphalt based, as most cheap deadeners are.

What brand are you removing?

2005 Subaru Outback Wagon Pioneer 9400BH Fi Q 15, SAZ1500dV3

The first build>>> http://www.stevemead...-outback-build/

140.9 @ 36hz Sealed on dash!

REBUILT!!! 2 Fi Q 15s, 2 SAZ1500dv3 146.9 @ 39hz dBDRA certified

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A freezer and razor to get the bulk off and paint thinner to remove the residue, The cold seems to work best when trying to remove it as sometimes you can get it to pull up in chunks and peel off the panel and sometimes you just have to cut through with a razor.

Honestly though, there is no easy way to do it.

01 Ford focus ZX3

Pioneer AVH-X491BHS

PPI PC 4800.2

Morel Maximo 6.5" x2

Link to comment
Share on other sites

wd40 seems to break it down a bit, but i still have to cut chunks of adhesive off. And no deadener i use is asphault based.

29408240963_9908a51930_o.png
Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's]

BL :  http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

why ya taking it off?

re-enforcing the back of my trucks cab. adhesives would work better on metal than on a deadener that has a gummy backing, that is then on metal.

but so far, all the deadener is off, putty knife, patience, some cuts, and some heat did the trick pretty well. Now i am getting the left overs off the raised parts of the back of the cab so i can attach a couple layers of either mdf or 2x4s.

*hopefully n8 or fox will chime in here*

is construction grade adhesive (in the caulk tube)[what i have right now is loctite PL premium(blue with yellow label)] enough to hold the wood for good to the back? and what prep should i do to the metal? sand it? get it clean and not worry about the paint? etc...

and for those in the future doing this, stuff with a butyl adhesive can be gotten off pretty easy with the extra deadener dabbed onto it. partially asphalt based, wd40 seems to break it down from a thick gummy substance to a almost creamy gummy consistency that can be scrapped off, and the remaining wiped off with a rag and more wd40. (found out the lower layers had some asphalt style adhesive)

29408240963_9908a51930_o.png
Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's]

BL :  http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i dont think id sand it but it hit it up with a liberal dousing of alcohol or acetone wipe down just to make sure you get a good bond. that pl is strong stuff. if you cut your 2x4s to the right length you should have no issue wedging them in there too for added strength.

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...