baaudio Posted November 14, 2012 Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 Check for woofers wired out if phase. It's an easy mistake to make and will.cause the same amount of voltage drop as normal. Also make sure the amps are set accordingly. Clipping will draw more current. On note of loudness, open the tailgate and see how it sounds. If louder open, it's not sealed off well enough Each pair of subs reads 2 ohms at the box terminals. Checking resistance won't tell you out of phase or not. Do a simple pop test, use a small 9v-12v battery and put positive to + and negative to - if both woofers push out on each side you're polarity is correct. If one pushes out and one sucks in that would probably explain your problem Team NWSPL baaudio Build Log 2001 GMC Sierra walkthrough 4 Mechman Elite 370s, 10 AGM batteries, 3 Crossfire XS v2 18s, Crossfire 8k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hondabiker95 Posted November 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2012 what is the alternator rated at idle? and i would have gone with 3 d3100 for the power youre running I think the alt is rated at 240 idle. We clamped it and it's putting down like 110 idle, 250 full tilt. We are sending it back to mechman tomorrow. We tried running one amp and 2 T2's off it, with the gain all the way down on that one amp, 10/62 on the radio (pioneer premier test radio), and the amp saw 9V and shut down. We checked all grounds and wired it according to a schematic given to us by our rockford rep. (I didn't personally wire the grounds up). Everything is Rockford 1/0 single run to the cap, buss bars in the back, all soldered terminals, everything is rock solid. This just isn't making sense. The customer is going to buy 2 more xs dc3100s ! And if this alternator passes the test bench from mechman, I just don't know. We are ordering a dual alt bracked and using the factory alt for it's purpose, and the 370 (self exciting) for it's purpose. I really think the alternator is what's causing the problem. As I said, it wouldnt even push 1 2500 with the gain at 1. And I mean the subs were barely moving. The 370A for those vehicles they say will do around 200 flat at idle. Even if it's only doing 110 at idle it shouldn't drop to 9v at not even 1/4 tilt, one amp. You have a problem somewhere else would be my guess. Also, is the Stinger volt meter hooked up at the amp or the batteries? The stinger meter is wired into the BCM. It's after the batteries, but before the amps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hondabiker95 Posted November 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2012 Like someone posted earlier if you guys had the alternator hooked up in the OEM spot then it is being controlled by the PCM. If its not in the OEM spot then I think your problem lies somewhere in the wiring or with that Capacitor. Start in the front and work your way rear. Good luck The Alternator was wired through the factory system via one xs d3400 and the second battery was run straight from the positive post on the Alt. We removed the Mechman alt and sent it in. It won't work with the vehicle's computer, basically the computer limits the alternator's internal regulator to 200A. We are going to run a dual alt setup with the factory alt and another aftermarket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hondabiker95 Posted November 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2012 Wires everywhere, still troubleshooting shit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8ight Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 Still waiting to see the end results I'm gonna hate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stroupe79 Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 electrical kinks ever get worked out? http://www.stevemead...cherokee-build/ 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Alpine CDE-hd148bt Alpine PKG-RSE2 PRV Audio (4) 6MB200 front/rear doors PRV Audio (4) TW350Ti dash/rear doors Kicker KX350.4 Obsidian Audio (1) 18 D4 v2 revamp (2) Stereo Integrity HT 18d2DC Audio 1.2k5.25ft^3 tuned @34hz revamp Infinite Baffle Cpillar AudioTechnix 60mil deadenerKnuKonceptz & SkyHigh wire (complete setup) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hondabiker95 Posted December 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2012 Whats up guys? Sorry about the wait on this build. We hit a few problems and the customer couldn't meet his deadline (he drives a truck). But The truck is all done now! She's in the break in phase and is really impressing everyone so far! It never drops below 13v and it'll play loud and hard all day long. We still have the truck for 2 weeks so more vids and pics are on the way. As far as the build itself, she's done. For the break in, she's turned down a little bit. T2500's (gain ~5/11) T600-4 (gain ~4/11) My coworker attempted to use his dd-1 and cc-1 on the truck, but he said it showed the radio clipping at 40/40 (audible distortion at this level). We were able to get a better sound by tuning by ear, surprisingly. Nothing against you Steve, Just don't think my buddy quite used the dd-1 right. Here are the final stats, pics, and a video. FINAL STATS: Electrical - - Dual alts, Mechman (370A) and Factory alternator (160A) -(2) XS Power D2400's up front, (2) XS Power D3100's in back. -Rockford Fosgate 10 Farad Hybrid cap. -Rockford 1/0 Cable for all runs (alt to battery, big 3, grounds etc) (All terminals / connections soldered) Head Unit - Clarion NX 501 Amplifiers - 2 RF T2500-bdcp's strapped. (Sub stage) Birthed 3450w and 3,050w. 1 RF T600-4 (Front and Rear stage) Speaker stage - 2 sets of Rockford Fosgate T1 6.5" components (1 in front, 1 in rear doors) Subwoofers - 4 Rockford Fosgate T2 12"s Box - Sealed, ~8 ft^3, 1" MDF, split chambers, heavily reinforced with Fiberglass. Misc, - Viper Smartstart VSS5000 Stinger Voltage Meter LED light strips (4) Mechman Dual Alt. Bracket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted December 4, 2012 Report Share Posted December 4, 2012 missing the a video in that last post. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hondabiker95 Posted December 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2012 I know this doesn't look like much on the camera, but trust me, it's hitting hard as hell in there. Sealed boxes won't flex as much, but are brutal on higher notes. It'll play low also, down to 25hz and below, it still beats like hell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoove Posted December 4, 2012 Report Share Posted December 4, 2012 We still need to know what the electrical problem was in case some else runs into the same issue 2 Team Fi 15's v1 2 DD M5's 970amps of Alt 6th order blowthroughThe truck Blowthrough build : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/155555-smooves-1996-chevy-ext-cab-c1500-slow-build/The 350z build : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/170694-smooves-2003-nissan-350z/ My FB page https://www.facebook.com/pages/Smooves-Car-Audio-and-performance/719746144805343 Team Fi Audio http://www.ficaraudio.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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