Alt or Battery first?

[Wiseracing2]

The alt should always be the first thing that is done when upgrading your electrical. The reason being is the large agm car audio batteries that we use stress stock alternators to the point of failure. The reason is because they require such a high rate of amperage to recharge over a standard lead acid battery and it puts quite a bit of extra strain on the alt.

Another reason why the alt should come first is because extra capacity from a battery is limited by how much the alt is able to charge. If your stock is 90 amps and your amp is pulling 150 you have already exceeded your alts capability and are beginning to drain your battery. With a 250 amp alt you would have the juice to throw 150 amps at the amplifier, run the accessories in the car, and have leftover amperage to charge the stock battery. This puts less strain on the battery while the alt does the job it is supposed to.

Of course the big 3 is technically the first thing that should be done before a battery or an alt.

Go with the alt first and thank me later!

You have given the best example and most detailed response to my question, so heres my last question.. With a good brand like DC, or Mechman, will I have reliability? I'm in high school and have to drive my truck daily and can't have the headaches.. I want a straight swap, reliable alternator.. so can I get this from one of those companies? Thanks again everyone!

[littlebuck1919]

The alt should always be the first thing that is done when upgrading your electrical. The reason being is the large agm car audio batteries that we use stress stock alternators to the point of failure. The reason is because they require such a high rate of amperage to recharge over a standard lead acid battery and it puts quite a bit of extra strain on the alt.

Another reason why the alt should come first is because extra capacity from a battery is limited by how much the alt is able to charge. If your stock is 90 amps and your amp is pulling 150 you have already exceeded your alts capability and are beginning to drain your battery. With a 250 amp alt you would have the juice to throw 150 amps at the amplifier, run the accessories in the car, and have leftover amperage to charge the stock battery. This puts less strain on the battery while the alt does the job it is supposed to.

Of course the big 3 is technically the first thing that should be done before a battery or an alt.

Go with the alt first and thank me later!

You have given the best example and most detailed response to my question, so heres my last question.. With a good brand like DC, or Mechman, will I have reliability? I'm in high school and have to drive my truck daily and can't have the headaches.. I want a straight swap, reliable alternator.. so can I get this from one of those companies? Thanks again everyone!

i have a DC alt (size of it shouldnt matter) but it's almost 2 years old and there's no problems with it, except that it bogs down my little motor a bit, but it's held up and is still going strong.

[Wiseracing2]

The alt should always be the first thing that is done when upgrading your electrical. The reason being is the large agm car audio batteries that we use stress stock alternators to the point of failure. The reason is because they require such a high rate of amperage to recharge over a standard lead acid battery and it puts quite a bit of extra strain on the alt.

Another reason why the alt should come first is because extra capacity from a battery is limited by how much the alt is able to charge. If your stock is 90 amps and your amp is pulling 150 you have already exceeded your alts capability and are beginning to drain your battery. With a 250 amp alt you would have the juice to throw 150 amps at the amplifier, run the accessories in the car, and have leftover amperage to charge the stock battery. This puts less strain on the battery while the alt does the job it is supposed to.

Of course the big 3 is technically the first thing that should be done before a battery or an alt.

Go with the alt first and thank me later!

You have given the best example and most detailed response to my question, so heres my last question.. With a good brand like DC, or Mechman, will I have reliability? I'm in high school and have to drive my truck daily and can't have the headaches.. I want a straight swap, reliable alternator.. so can I get this from one of those companies? Thanks again everyone!

i have a DC alt (size of it shouldnt matter) but it's almost 2 years old and there's no problems with it, except that it bogs down my little motor a bit, but it's held up and is still going strong.

Good! Thats what I need!

[Nightshade]

Any of the brands that you've mentioned produce a good product. However, there is just one difference with Mechman than all the other brands. They provide the best customer service that I've dealt with. I've dealt with Iraggi, DC Power, and Mechman with the latter being my best experience of all. As far as reliability the unit I have of theirs is awesome. The thing charges back to normal voltage after heavy bass lines very quickly. If it we me I'd go with Mechman.

[Bump4life]

Get the battery first. I run 3k true rms on a stock 90A alternator a XS power D5100 and stock battery. Nothing helps your amps more than reserves.

and the battery will be cheaper and most likely easier to install than a quality alternator

to all those who say alternator first. yes technically that should be the first thing done but with that system the stock alt should be able to keep up recharging his system for the duration he is likely to play. unless he drains the battery completely and continues to play that is only time he will run into problems.

second of all he is not doing competition? or is he?

OP if you are only playing music your rockford amp will be lucky to draw 60 amps. plus rockford amps such as 750.1 are hella efficient. I was only drawing 30AMPs out of my T600-4. which stated it put out 800 rms which theoritically would be approx 80A draw.

second your higs amp I bet is barely drawing 20 amps maybe 25 amps. in the end the impedences which you run your amps at effect how much electrical you need. but with what you have the big 3 and a D3400 will be plenty to run that. The d3400 alone can run that system. I could see your voltage dropping into the low 13s maybe high 12s unless something else is wrong. the best thing you can do is have good wiring OFC preferred. good grounds. the big 3, and a stock battery in addition to D3400. that will be plenty.

you will get out cheaper and youll still be able to bump.

[DubNDodge]

Get the battery first. I run 3k true rms on a stock 90A alternator a XS power D5100 and stock battery. Nothing helps your amps more than reserves.

and the battery will be cheaper and most likely easier to install than a quality alternator

to all those who say alternator first. yes technically that should be the first thing done but with that system the stock alt should be able to keep up recharging his system for the duration he is likely to play. unless he drains the battery completely and continues to play that is only time he will run into problems.

second of all he is not doing competition? or is he?

OP if you are only playing music your rockford amp will be lucky to draw 60 amps. plus rockford amps such as 750.1 are hella efficient. I was only drawing 30AMPs out of my T600-4. which stated it put out 800 rms which theoritically would be approx 80A draw.

second your higs amp I bet is barely drawing 20 amps maybe 25 amps. in the end the impedences which you run your amps at effect how much electrical you need. but with what you have the big 3 and a D3400 will be plenty to run that. The d3400 alone can run that system. I could see your voltage dropping into the low 13s maybe high 12s unless something else is wrong. the best thing you can do is have good wiring OFC preferred. good grounds. the big 3, and a stock battery in addition to D3400. that will be plenty.

you will get out cheaper and youll still be able to bump.

Just curious, what is your voltage drop? I am going to be running similar watts on a 90A stock alt as well. Equipment is in sig.

[Eturnulrs704]

I agree with nite shade for more reasons than one. Think of this now, Suppose you get the battery. system is going great, now suppose your alt fails just from wear and age. now you still need to get an alt on top of the battery you bought. more $.. get the alt and be done with it.. plus if you ever want to upgrade your system later on the alt will be all you need depending on how much wattage you will be pushing. And if you ever sell the vehicle you have the choice to keep the alt and use it in another vehicle if it fits or sell it and recoup cash. With battery theres 50/50 chance you will need more power, with ALT its 100% in your favor. ALT = win win..

[Pioneerchuck]

you might want to look into Singer alts. They have great products and fantastic customer service in the event something does go wrong. Plus his alts are relatively cheap.

[zxsonnyxz]

Iirc, before he edited the first porst he seemed to be getting both, but one at a time. Now it seems he's only getting either alt/batt?

If you're keeping your system as is, be sure to have a good "big 3(or 4)" uppgrade, and you should be good with just a battery. Still going to be some voltage drop, but with a good battery it won't drop dangerously low. With a good battery you can also listen to music with the car off for a while, just don't be stupid. Draining the battery will also put more strain on the alt.

With a big alt you could probably play your system full tillt and stay at 14v, so that's a good thing.

You just have to figure out how much you want to spend and what you actually need.

OP if you are only playing music your rockford amp will be lucky to draw 60 amps. plus rockford amps such as 750.1 are hella efficient. I was only drawing 30AMPs out of my T600-4. which stated it put out 800 rms which theoritically would be approx 80A draw.

What are you saying here?

[Nightshade]

Get the battery first. I run 3k true rms on a stock 90A alternator a XS power D5100 and stock battery. Nothing helps your amps more than reserves.

and the battery will be cheaper and most likely easier to install than a quality alternator

to all those who say alternator first. yes technically that should be the first thing done but with that system the stock alt should be able to keep up recharging his system for the duration he is likely to play. unless he drains the battery completely and continues to play that is only time he will run into problems.

second of all he is not doing competition? or is he?

OP if you are only playing music your rockford amp will be lucky to draw 60 amps. plus rockford amps such as 750.1 are hella efficient. I was only drawing 30AMPs out of my T600-4. which stated it put out 800 rms which theoritically would be approx 80A draw.

second your higs amp I bet is barely drawing 20 amps maybe 25 amps. in the end the impedences which you run your amps at effect how much electrical you need. but with what you have the big 3 and a D3400 will be plenty to run that. The d3400 alone can run that system. I could see your voltage dropping into the low 13s maybe high 12s unless something else is wrong. the best thing you can do is have good wiring OFC preferred. good grounds. the big 3, and a stock battery in addition to D3400. that will be plenty.

you will get out cheaper and youll still be able to bump.

An alt should be the first electrical upgrade after the big three. In no way is adding a battery going to benefit his electrical as much as a high output alt will. The battery is ONLY in a car to help start the car and use as a reserve when too much current is drawn from the alt. The alt is what powers the entire car electrically until its capability is exceeded. Point being if you have an alt that produces more amperage than is being drawn the battery can wait until he runs more power. End of story.