Carbon Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 I invested a few thousand in good electrical before I even thought about amps and subs. Mechman 325a alt 4 spools of Sky High 1/0 6 Group 31 Deka Intimidators 1 XS D3400 Lots of aluminum bars. around 30 fuses with holders Im missing more. Know it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockford96 Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 I invested a few thousand in good electrical before I even thought about amps and subs. i bet you have a few hundred in heat shrink too man lol My setup, Digital Designs M80 3 Re audio 10's ported tuned to 36 hz Kenwood x-696 SHCA 0 gauge Polk audio coax running off hu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 Get good deals rather than bad equipment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega5002 Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 Shit subs and good amp, I can make the shitty sub sound good in a proper box, and have the gain low if the amp is too powerful for the sub, which also gives more headroom, and makes the amp run cooler. Then while I run the shit subs, I can save up for good subs. 2003 Kia Sorento Team Subsonic LowsTeam Bassin' on a Budget2016 Rebuild Under Construction Best score: 150.2 at 40hz (3k, 2 Custom HDC3 15's) Usaci style(door open, in the kick) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwn4BassAlan Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 the key to the answer has to do with heat. Heat is the enemy of acoustical reproduction. As sound waves pass through air with different density it will bend because of refraction. Obviously there's a lot to consider when looking at heat control as basically every step of an audio process can affect it; from the cars electrical capability, the wiring, the materials, the amps, the connections, the speakers, the enclosure, and the sound signals from the amps. If I had to directly answer sub vs amp, I would also say amp in this instance because of the fact that "dirty" power will force a sub to create more heat than it would with "clean" power. As you probably know, distortion is the killer for subs, which is caused by heat, improper powering, or an unclean audio signal. Heat will also kill your amps too, which is put on the express track if you don't give it enough power. But a more realistic answer would be electrical like someone said earlier. You might have a 5000W RMS amp, but if your alternator is pushing 120amps max, you have an amp capable of producing 5000W RMS, but it is more realistically producing (120a x 13.4v=)1,608W and less because you don't have enough amperage from your single alternator. In order to get your 5000W you would need (at the least) 373 amps (5000W / 13.4v=373a) and more because your car has other electrical needs. You would also need batteries to be able to store and supply enough power quickly enough. This is also assuming your wiring and connections are very efficient. If I do buss bars I plan on using copper since it's more conductive than aluminum and I'm trying to get the maximum amount of power from my alt and battery. There's quite a few things you can do to improve your electrical system greatly. Biomedical/Behavioral Science Major, The (Self-Proclaimed) Undisputed-Homemade-Woofer-King Super-Neodymium-Woofer Build Log: The D4BA-V.2 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169236-diy-super-neodymium-woofer-build-log/?p=2475620 Fucking love Alan you goddamned fucking super nerd lol When Alan uses big words I don't understand It's warming up enough that the donut-punching cyclist douchenozzles are getting their two wheeled fagmobiles out. Everytime I see a guy driving a mini cooper I cant help but think he loves cock & (2/29/16)-My wife just bitched at me about throwing out things we don't really use. My response of well we don't really use your vagina so should we throw that out was evidently not the right response. I had to leave the room. I missed Alan. RIP 5/29/15 - I love you son. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Daniel Galen Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 I would say a high end amp then follow with high end subs because usually the better subs will be able to handle more power and if you get a better sub first you won't be driving as hard as it will take to truly enjoy and it could be working the cheaper amp harder, where as a cheap sub driven by a good amp won't work the amp as hardpersonally I wait for sales /buy an amp used / manufacturer refurbished, much cheaper, it's the only reason I was able to afford my stuff, I paid half of true retail for everything I have in my car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pioneerforlife Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 I would have to say amp because like said before a crap sub can sound good in the right box. I have had crap amps before just to mess around with and some have an odd sound to them. so I have to say amp. 2007 Ford Focus SES Hatchback Pioneer HU 4 Digital Designs 9515i's in a B pillar. 2 Soundstream XXX 15K's (running at 16 volts) Soundstream Mids/Highs in custom door panels (getting rebuilt soon) Soundstream TA2.160 and TA2.400 Sky High and KNU wiring 3 Banks of Maxwell caps Winston Lithium (not a fan) Bump4Life 250 Amp Alt. aka USAlternators Soundstream Focus and Avenger Build Log Instagram @p4linnovation YouTube: Team Blowin Loud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandonbkd Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 Clean power through a nice amp first FI BL18 Build Log: CLICK HERE!! 2003 Explorer Sport: FI BL18 SoundQubed 2200 at 0.7ohm Pioneer DEH-2500UI Pioneer 6 x 8s Rockford Fosgate 6 x 9s 5 ft^3 box at 35hz Lots of Mega Mat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 A member on here, Fecupe2001 did a 150 with sony xplods and a DD m3a. You can usually feed a quality(cheap, but still quality) sub a bit more power than it's rated for, provided it's clean. But you can't quite do the same with an amp. When it clips it clips lol ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john253a Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 You can't turn shit into jam you can put jam on shit to dress it up, but in the end its still shit Quality starts a power or you have nothing Then signal What ever you put in after that will never enhance the quality, it will alway go down As each item changes it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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